July 26th, 2011

Review: Kilchoman (Spring 2011 release)

John Hansell

And still more Islay reviews. I put this side-by-side with Laphroaig Cairdeas, and this particular Kilchoman tastes as mature as the Cairdeas (if not more) and, at what? Half the age? Plenty of flavors too! Great stuff coming out of Kilchoman. (Of course, some of you will naturally disagree. What is it with Islay whiskies and people being so opinionated? Must be the passion for the whisky.)

Kilchoman (Spring 2011 release), 46%, $65

A marriage of three and four year old whisky aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, with the four year old portion being finished in oloroso sherry casks. Among the best of the Kilchoman releases to date. The first-fill bourbon packs a flavor punch, while the sherry softens, rounds, and adds complexity. Barrel char, burnt raisin, boat dock, and tarry rope, softened by caramel and enhanced with notes of tropical fruit. Surprisingly mature for its age and very distinctive. — John Hansell

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 18 Comments

May 9th, 2011

Review: Kilchoman, Winter 2010 Release

John Hansell

Kilchoman, Winter 2010 Release, 46%, $63

Aged in both refill and new bourbon casks. The new bourbon casks are evident, and I think it adds richness, vibrancy, and perceived maturity (which I like) when compared to the previous Summer 2010 release. Very pale in color. Brooding, with licorice root, coal tar, bacon fat, damp peat, bright fruit (citrus and pear), and intriguing botanicals, all on a soothing bed of vanilla malt. Smoky, briny finish. I’m still amazed how this very young whisky can taste so mature. Well done!

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 8 Comments

April 18th, 2011

A few brief Scotch, Bourbon, Rye and Irish whiskey updates

John Hansell

First, let me thank all of you who offered whisky recommendations for the new enthusiast in my last post. More than 100 comments later, I can say that the post is a very valuable resource.

As you know, I was in Chicago last week hosting WhiskyFest. It was a great event, and I even managed to find time to taste some whiskies and get the scoop on a few items. I thought I would pass them on to you.

I tasted the new Spring 2011 release of Kilchoman. This one has some sherry aging, unlike the previous two releases here in the U.S. I must say that I think this is the best Kilchoman whisky yet. It’s well rounded, surprisingly mature for its age, and 100% Islay!

This was the first time independent bottler Samaroli was at WhiskyFest. Indeed, they are only now being imported to the U.S. I tasted a few of their offerings and really enjoyed them. (Really cool bottles, too, as you can see pictured on the left!) I look forward to tasting more of their whiskies in the future.

The importers of Springbank for the U.S. hand selected several casks 14 year old Springbanks, each one matured in a different type of sherry, and what will be offered at cask-strength. It’s an interesting essay in the impact of different sherry wines on a whisky. You might want to check those out.

I was able to taste a prototype of what will be a new barrel-proof expression of Angel’s Envy bourbon which will be released later this year. It was delicious!

The folks behind the Jefferson’s line of bourbons, including the outstanding Jefferson’s Presidential Select releases, told me they will be releasing a 10 year old 100% rye whiskey later this year at 94 proof. I tasted a pre-release. It reminded me of WhistlePig. I mean, it really reminded me of WhistlePig (hint!), but at a slightly lower proof (and what will be offered at the significantly lower price of about $35).

Do you remember my review of Redemption Rye? Well, they recently came out with a high-rye bourbon. Which was also pretty good. Now I’m told they will be introducing a more standard, easy-going bourbon (which the brand manager referred to as a “breakfast bourbon”) in July. They will also be releasing a barrel-proof version of their high-rye bourbon around August.

This isn’t WhiskyFest related, but there’s a big press event going on at the Midleton distillery in Ireland in a couple weeks. A little while back I was informed that Pernod has repackaged Redbreast and Green Spot single pot still whiskeys. (Note that I used the word “single” and not “pure.”) Rumor has it that they will also be introducing a new line of single pot still whiskeys at this press event. Malt Advocate will be present at this event and we will report back here with our findings.

Finally, some of you were also at WhiskyFest Chicago. For those that were, please feel free to share what you learned at the event–new releases, whiskies the really stood out, etc.

Category: Bourbon,Irish whiskey,New Releases,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky,WhiskyFest Tags: , , , , , , , 41 Comments

February 17th, 2011

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Artisan Whisky of the Year”: Kilchoman (Summer 2010 Release)

John Hansell

The Artisan Whisky of the Year recognizes small production distillers making hand-crafted whisky, regardless of where they distill. Sometimes, artisan distillers peacefully coexist with larger, higher production distillers. So it is with Kilchoman, located in a rural farmland setting on Scotland’s famous distilling island, Islay.

Operational only since 2005, the owners of Kilchoman began bottling their peat smoke-infused whisky in small batches shortly after the whisky became legal at three years of age. We were blown away by it. The inaugural release (three years old, 46% ABV), occurred in the fall of 2009, but the first whisky exported to the United States was the Summer 2010 release.

Summer 2010 is this young distillery’s fourth release and it’s aged entirely in bourbon barrels. Previous releases that we have tasted and reviewed (the inaugural release and the Autumn 2009 release) were finished in sherry casks. We miss the sherry, to be honest. It softened the whisky, added a new dimension, and perhaps even masked some of its youth. Still, this is a very nice whisky: brisk, vibrant, and bracing, with plenty of raw peat smoke and tar, along with pear, citrus, vanilla, licorice root, bourbon barrel char, clove, bitter chocolate, and suggestions of olive brine and high- end mezcal.

In addition to the standard Summer 2010 release, there were also two single cask, cask strength bottlings purchased by two specialty retailers. They take everything that is good about the standard release and give it to you “right out of the barrel.” 

If you like smoky whiskies, and you like them youthful, vibrant, and bracing, then Kilchoman is the whisky for you.

Be sure to check back tomorrow. The “American Whiskey of the Year” will be announced here!

Category: Awards,Scotch whisky Tags: , 58 Comments

January 25th, 2011

Review: Kilchoman (Summer 2010 Release)

John Hansell

Kilchoman (Summer 2010 Release), 46%, $70

This young distillery’s fourth release, aged entirely in bourbon barrels. (This is the first one available in the U.S.) The two previous releases that I tasted and reviewed (the inaugural release and the Autumn 2009 release) were finished in sherry casks. I miss the sherry, to be honest. I think it softened the whisky, added a new dimension, and perhaps even masked some of the youth. Still, this is a very nice effort: brisk, vibrant, and bracing, with plenty of raw peat smoke and tar, along with pear, citrus, vanilla, licorice root, bourbon barrel char, clove, bitter chocolate, and suggestions of olive brine and high-end mescal.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 47 Comments

April 19th, 2010

Kilchoman whisky, The U.S., this September

John Hansell

I was waiting for a press release before reporting. It’s short and sweet. This is exciting news. I’m told it will be the Summer release. They should be toasting with a bottle of Kilchoman. I guess that’s one more bottle for the rest of us. :)

Kilchoman Distillery Appoints Importer for the USA

Kilchoman Distillery is delighted to announce it has appointed Impex Beverages at it’s importer for the USA.   The first bottles will be available from September 2010.

Anthony Wills (Managing Director of Kilchoman Islay single malt Scotch whisky) said, ‘I’m delighted to be working with Impex Beverages.   They have similar views on the best ways of marketing premium, single malt and I’m looking forward to working with them over the coming years in the USA’.

The picture shows (L to R) Anthony , and Sam Filmus and Ed Kohl of Impex Beverages celebrating their new business relationship.

Category: New Releases,Scotch whisky,Uncategorized Tags: 15 Comments

April 14th, 2010

Mackmyra, the United States, this Spring!

John Hansell

We just heard from our contact at Mackmyra, the impressive distillery from Sweden. Although they have been delayed by governmental red tape here in the U.S., they are still planning on launching their whisky in New York this Spring. This is great news! Representatives from the distillery will be in New York in early May.

I will also have some good news very soon on Kilchoman, the newest Islay distillery, and their launch here in the U.S.  Stay tuned.

Category: Distillery news,European whiskies,Scotch whisky Tags: , 14 Comments

March 29th, 2010

Guest blog #1: Islay

John Hansell

As I mentioned here, this is from From B. J. Reed and the gang who visited Scotland a couple weeks ago:

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For those of you never to have toured a distillery it can be an eye-opening experience – these can run from basic tours of an hour or so to those that can extend for half a day.  Many distilleries are set up for tours and you can easily arrange one, we’d recommend calling the number that most have posted on their website.  Many charge a small fee which can be recouped if you buy whisky in their gift shop.  Some will provide levels of tours based on a range of fees charged for the event, ask if you’d like to see something a bit more behind the scenes or participate in a cask sampling! Standard tours typically include a tasting of at least one whisky at the end of the tour; many provide whisky for sale available exclusively at the distillery. 

All tours include the basics: barley mill, mash tun room, washbacks, and the still room.  Most will include visits to a bonded warehouse.  Many will allow pictures throughout the tour. Others, particularly those owned by Diageo, will not allow any pictures.   What we want to provide you is a range some of our experiences over the last two weeks and hope you will join in with questions and comments.  I have asked all of those who have toured with us to join in as well to add their own perspective. One caveat I would point out here.  For some of us this is our fourth or fifth tour beginning in 1998, so we have grown to become very close friends with many of the distillery managers and others working on both the marketing and production side of the industry.  For that reason we may have be allowed to experience some things that others might not, but we still want to give you a flavor of what we have learned on our latest journey. Why did we tour in March, you might ask? It’s less expensive in terms of transportation and lodging, and we tend to get a bit more attention before the busy tourist season begins. As many of you know, lots of distillery managers and ambassadors travel to various events like Whiskyfest, and they are easier to catch on their home turf before April or after September.

The Islands – Part I  (Islay)

We visited both Islay and Orkney – Today we want to focus on Islay to give you a taste of what you can expect if you visit the distilleries there.  Islay is a wonderful place to visit, the distillery experiences can be exceptional. Allow yourself a few days on Islay, the ferry ride is over two hours, after landing and driving to the west coast.

We didn’t visit any of the Diageo distilleries (Lagavulin, Caol Isla), they do not do tours on Saturday until after Easter, and believe me we tried!  Lagavulin is set up for tours and has a gift shop and gives a nice standard tour but Diageo distilleries are pretty cookie cutter in approach.  Bowmore (bottom left) and Laphroaig both have floor maltings and are great fun to see in action. You learn about how the process used to work and if you are lucky, they let you turn a few shovels of the malt!  Only a handful of distilleries have floor maltings and if you decide to go to visit a distillery it is something you absolutely should see.   Bowmore have bottles only available at the shop that range from 80 to 100 pounds and we picked up several Festival and Manager bottlings.  Bruichladdich (top two photos are of Jim McEwan from Bruichladdich) allows you to bottle your own whisky on site (this is also true at Pulteney and Aberlour).  It is a lot of fun, and if the manager is there he will sign it for you.

We missed our window to tour Kilchoman, but the farm and gift shop are very nice. The whisky is great too, it’s fun to see a small distillery get a successful start in this market. Ardbeg, as always was fantastic. We toured with Distillery Manager Mickey Heads, over from a stint a Jura and quite into his own. He’s been at the helm through the release of some very successful whiskies, and was more than happy to show us through the growing archive and chat about their bright future.

Laphroaig, as many of you know, asks that you become a Friend of Laphroaig, and with that honor you are given a dram of 10 Year Old Cask Strength as “rent,” and a plot of land at the distillery you can visit!   As John Hansell noted recently, John MacLellan is leaving Bunnahbhain for Kilchoman which is a real loss for Burns-Stewart.  John often gave tours of the distillery himself.  Bunnahabhain (second from bottom) was shut down for long stretches last year, and I think the challenge of going to a new small distillery was attractive to John.  Until John’s resignation all the distilleries on Islay were operated by men from Islay.  Lets hope that continues! — B. J. Reed

Category: Distillery Tours,Guest Blogger,Scotch whisky,Uncategorized Tags: , , , , 29 Comments

March 9th, 2010

Review: Kilchoman Autumn 2009 release

John Hansell

 A few extra thoughts for my WDJK friends in addition to my formal review below. First, this is not available in the U.S., which is why I have the price in Pounds Sterling. (Anthony Wills, the Managing Director of Kilchoman, tells me it will be in the U.S. in 2010.)  I checked the Kilchoman website, and they still list it as being for sale with a two bottle limit. They also note that there will be a third release this month–something to look forward to.

I also wanted to note that I lined this whisky up next to the new Ardbeg Rollercoater (a marriage of 3-10 year old whiskies) and feel that Kilchoman tastes as mature as Rollercoaster. This is one of the most impressive new distilleries–anywhere! Let’s hope they can keep this up in the future.

Kilchoman, Autumn 2009 release, 46%, £47
This (rather young) Islay distillery’s second release. Like the original release, it’s aged for about three years and then finished in sherry casks–this time for 2.5 months, which is less than the first release. It’s in the same ballpark as the first release.

Once again, I am very impressed. It’s very mature for its age, with good viscosity, showing smoldering peat, coal tar, black licorice stick, burnt dark berried fruit, thick cut marmalade, shoo-fly pie (think molasses), toffee apple, cocoa powder, cinnamon and a suggestion of wet sheep. Long, peat smoke finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate  magazine rating: 90

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 36 Comments

March 8th, 2010

John MacLellan, Distillery Manager of Bunnahabhain, moving to Kilchoman Distillery

John Hansell

This was posted on the Kilchoman Distillery website last week. I’m finally getting around to posting it up here.

Now that Kilchoman has (surprisingly good for its age) legal whisky to sell, the need to expand their operations.

I’m not sure who will replace John at Bunnahabhain.

The press release:

We are delighted to announce that John MacLellan will be joining us as General Manager.  John has worked in the whisky industry for over 20 years and for the past 12 years he has been the manager at Bunnahabhain, so brings with him lots of experience.  He starts on the 3rd of May and will be responsible for the day to day running of the business, freeing Anthony up to concentrate on developing sales around the world.

Category: Distillery news Tags: , 7 Comments

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