May 23rd, 2011

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades

John Hansell

A quintet of releases showing examples of The Glenlivet from five decades, issued to support The Glenlivet Generations 70 year old bottling (see earlier post). All are available individually or in a limited edition set (50 only) for £2,850; these bottlings are not currently available in the U.S. All reviews are by Dave Broom.

1991, 54.4%, £95

The youngest of the quintet has been aged in refill sherry hogsheads, but the coconut that immediately assails the nostrils suggests they were made from American oak. Alongside this is the distillery’s signature pineapple note which sits under a scented, floral lift. Water adds a further layer of ripe pear. The palate is equally heightened with a powdery feel. It’s pretty discreet and I’d be cautious with any dilution. The finish is a mix of night-scented stocks, custard, and green apple.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

1980, 48.5%, £250

This is from a first fill American oak hoggie, and the extra time in cask has given it a classic mature Glenlivet character: a rich, complex mix of cooked apple, pine, and citrus, cut with rose petal. The fruitiness has moved from pear into baked apricot. Water adds an almond note. The scented notes have been retained (especially on the finish), but have deepened into sweet spice. The oak gives light grip. Have with chilled water on the side.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

1974, 50.1%, £500

The nose immediately betrays the fact that this has been matured in a first-fill sherry hogshead. It’s akin to an artisan’s workshop, all leather oil and strange resins. There’s an intriguing hint of curry spices and truffle, but all in all this is about density, black fruits (damson), allspice, and clove. The cask is in charge. The palate has more tannin than you perhaps want — powerful and grippy with lots of nut and tea-like tannins; too grippy for me.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 79
 
1963, 40.6%, £750

A first-fill American oak hoggie was the receptacle for the representative from the 1960s. The cask has provided an extremely relaxed environment for maturation to take place, with a return of the pineapple (grilled on a barbecue this time), along with linden blossom, cream, green jasmine tea, and mint. The effect is like a grown up 1991. The maturity kicks in on the palate — thick and slow with some sandalwood alongside honeysuckle. Gentle and clean, and again not one to dilute.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

1954 50.6%, £1,250

First-fill sherry wood makes a return here and adds its own rich dried fruitiness — think sultana cake — to the exotic whisky rancio notes of cheese rind, sealing wax, and roasting pheasant. As it opens, there’s fig, some peat smoke, black cherry, and concentrated stone fruits. This exotic/savory/sweet interplay continues on the tongue where there’s a surprising hint of mint and some pear blossom. The finish is long, with apple skin, gingerbread, and walnut. A discreet nod to cognac.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: , , 7 Comments

May 15th, 2011

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Generations: The Glenlivet 70 year old

John Hansell

For the rest of the month, I’ll be posting reviews by some of the other Malt Advocate whisky writers who each have their own defined review area, which I outlined here.

Gordon & MacPhail Generations: The Glenlivet 70 year old, 45.9%, $21,000

You would expect any 70 year old whisky to be crepuscular, dense, and wooded. Not here. The nose is amazingly fresh — distillery character fully intact — with layers of rancio and heavy florals. In time, there’s candle wax, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a touch of leather, even the whiff of a soft mink stole. Concentrated and complex. The palate is like an ancient vin santo with oxidized nuttiness, quince and medlar, and subtle peat. Hugely expressive on the palate, with a sweet finish. Truly remarkable. –Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

photo courtesy of Gordon & MacPhail

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 10 Comments

May 4th, 2011

Review: Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” (distilled at Caol Ila)

John Hansell

Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” Madeira Wood Finish (distilled at Caol Ila), 1998 Vintage, 10 year old, 46%, $70

Bright fruit throughout (red raspberry, strawberry-rhubarb pie, gooseberry, red currant, nectarine), honeyed malt, dark chocolate, tarry rope, seaweed soaked in olive brine, and ground pepper. Tarry finish. Nicely balanced, well-defined flavors, and fully mature at 10 years of age.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” Port Wood Finish (distilled at Caol Ila), 1998 Vintage, 10 year old, 46%, $70

Sweet, viscous, and weighty; much more so than its sister whisky (reviewed above) that was finished in Madeira casks. But the same Caol Ila DNA is here — tar, olive brine, pepper — along with fleshy red fruit and chocolate. Lingering ripe fruit and tar on the finish. Save this one for after dinner, or with a book at bedtime.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 11 Comments

March 8th, 2011

Gordon & MacPhail releases another 70 year old whisky–and more!

John Hansell

I don’t usually post up press releases. But it’s pretty rare to see the release of a 70 year old whisky. Gordon & MacPhail has done it again, as part of their “Generations” label. The first time it was Mortlach. This time, it’s Glenlivet. Details below in the release.

 

Exclusive, 70 Year Old Malt and the ‘Lifetime’ of one of Scotland’s Most Iconic Whiskies Revealed
‘Sequel’ to world’s oldest whisky unveiled

From today, whisky lovers will get the chance to own the ‘lifetime’ of one of Scotland’s most iconic whiskies, with the jewel in the crown being a £13,000 bottle of 70 year old Scotch.

Family-owned whisky specialist, Gordon & MacPhail, will unveil one cask of The Glenlivet 70 Years Old, one of the world’s oldest whiskies, at a ceremony in Edinburgh Castle. Described as a “stupendous”, “smooth” and “voluptuous” single malt, and released under G&M’s Generations label, only 100 full-size bottles of this exclusive whisky will be available to buy in 2011.

To make these exclusive purchase extra-special, enthusiasts will also be able to buy a limited edition set, the “Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades.” This set contains a bottle from every decade from the 1950s to 1990s – giving collectors the rare opportunity to own the ‘liquid lifetime’ of the malt.

Founded in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail is known the world over as the custodian of some of the oldest and rarest single malts available. Members of the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family now own and manage the business.

David and Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Directors of Gordon & MacPhail, said: “Following on from the phenomenal success last year of Mortlach 70 Years Old, we decided to release this ‘sister’ Generations cask as there is clearly an enormous demand for greatly-aged Scotch Malt Whiskies.

“This cask of The Glenlivet was laid down on 3rd February 1940, on the instruction of our grand-father, John Urquhart. Since then, successive generations of the Urquhart family have been waiting for today – the day it would be ready to share with fellow whisky lovers.

“Throughout the 115 years since we were founded, we have made it our business to nurture and mature some of the finest whiskies Scotland has to offer. The ‘Glenlivet Decades’ collection revisits this special malt throughout the years, allowing whisky enthusiasts to get a real sense of how the cask and the maturation process change the character of a whisky.

“Altogether, these six whiskies represent the ‘liquid lifetime’ of The Glenlivet, and six decades of experience, dedication and passion on the part of our family. We’re confident that this investment has resulted in a suite of whiskies of unparalleled quality: a real collector’s piece.”

The whiskies will be revealed to an audience of invited guests at a 1940s-themed ceremony at the historic location of Edinburgh Castle.

Well-known whisky connoisseur Charles Maclean described the launch:

“Made at the height of the Battle of Britain, The Glenlivet 1940 opens a door into a different time, another country. To smell and taste this exquisite whisky is to experience the past in a unique way – layer upon layer of flavour, profound and evocative. Its companions from the succeeding five decades provide an unrepeatable opportunity to explore subtle differences in the flavour of this Prince of Whiskies over half a century – as well as being a Blue Chip investment!”.

Each bottle will be beautifully presented in a tear-shaped hand-blown crystal decanter with an elegant British Hallmarked silver stopper. The decanter nestles in a sterling silver base and is framed in a handmade box, crafted in Scotland using Scottish Elm.

The Glenlivet 70 Years Old was matured in a First Fill Sherry Butt, and bottled at cask strength (45.9% ABV). Only 100 70cl bottles and 175 20cl bottles will be released in 2011. The 70cl decanter has a recommended retail price in the UK of £13,000 and the 20cl version has a recommended retail price in the UK of £3,200. It is the second in a series of extremely rare malt whiskies to be released by Gordon & MacPhail under its ‘Generations’ brand.

Fifty limited edition collector’s packs are also available, containing all five Private Collection whiskies, priced at £2,850 per pack. The packs contain one bottle of each of the following whiskies: Glenlivet 1954 50.6%; Glenlivet 1963 40.6%; Glenlivet 1974 50.1%; Glenlivet 1980 48.5%; and Glenlivet 1991 54.4%.

The Private Collection: Glenlivet Decades bottlings are also available individually, with recommended retail prices in the UK ranging from £95 to £1,250.

Prices may vary in different countries due to different excise and sales taxes and currency fluctuations.

For more information visit www.gordonandmacphail.com.

Category: Media,New Releases,Scotch whisky Tags: 49 Comments

August 27th, 2010

Two new Benromach “Origins” to be released

John Hansell

Gordon & MacPhail is following up on the first “Origins” whisky (one that featured Golden Promise barley) with two new ones, schedules for release later this year. As you can see here, I wasn’t thrilled with the first Origins release, Hopefully, these two will be better. Details are below.

————–

New Additions Boost Benromach Origins Range

Speyside’s smallest whisky distillery, Benromach, has added two new variants to its Origins range.

Benromach Origins Batch No. 2 was distilled in 1999 and has been fully matured in Port Pipes.  This is the first Benromach expression to be fully matured in a wine cask, allowing the characteristics of the port to infuse with the whisky.  The resultant single malt has red berry fruitiness with hints of orange peel, dark chocolate and soft smoke.

Benromach Origins Batch No. 3, distilled in 2000, has been created using the finest Optic barley then matured in Sherry casks. It displays zesty citrus flavours, softly infused with spicy aniseed and menthol notes.

The two new whiskies are the latest additions to Origins – a series of special bottlings launched in 2008 to highlight how small changes in the art of whisky making can help shape the character of the final single malt. Each batch displays the ‘Benromach style’ of peat-smoke with malt aromas and a delicate perfumed nose, while at the same time offering a slightly different sensation for the consumer.

Benromach Distillery Manager Keith Cruickshank anticipates that the new whiskies will be popular with both fans and novices alike:

“It’s two years since we released the first batch of Benromach Origins, created using Golden Promise barley”, said Keith.

“These two new batches are quite different but still recognisably ‘Benromach’ in style”, he continued.

“Because we are such a small operation, with just two distilling staff, we have the freedom to make changes to the whisky-making process, while maintaining our commitment to handmade quality. This results in interesting and innovative variations.”

Benromach has also recently re-packaged its exclusive Vintage Speyside Single Malt. This sophisticated greatly-aged single malt, a winner at this year’s Spirit of Speyside Whisky Awards and described as ‘a powerful presentation of a Sherry-matured Speysider’, has been encased in a sleek brushed metal tin, replacing the previous outer box, to give it a stylish and contemporary look in line with other whiskies in the Benromach range.

Benromach Origins Batch 2 and 3, and Benromach Vintage will be available from whisky shops and fine wine and spirits retail specialists with suggested UK retail prices of £38.50 (Benromach Origins Batch 2 and 3) and £299.00 (Benromach Vintage).

Notes: Benromach distillery is Speyside’s smallest. Based in the attractive Moray town of Forres, the gateway to Scotland’s famous whisky producing region, just two expert distillers make this sweet, golden malt whisky.

The distillery went through many changes of ownership and closures before being ‘rescued’ and restored by local family-owned firm Gordon & MacPhail in 1993, and was officially opened by the Prince of Wales in 1998.

For more information about Benromach Distillery and the Benromach range of Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whiskies go to www.benromach.com. 

Category: New Releases,Scotch whisky Tags: , 1 Comment

March 11th, 2010

Gordon & MacPhail introduces world’s oldest whisky

John Hansell

Gordon & MacPhail has broken the 70 year old barrier with a 70 year old Mortlach under the new “Generations”  label. I also have a very small sample of this whisky, so I’ll let you know my thoughts for those of you who are curious.

Here’s the press release I was also sent, which was enbargoed until today. It explains more about the whisky and the Generations concept.

The wait is over as the world’s oldest whisky sees the light of day

The world’s oldest bottled single malt whisky has been revealed today (Thursday 11 March) by whisky specialist Gordon & MacPhail.

Released under Gordon & MacPhail’s ‘Generations’ brand, Mortlach 70 Years Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky was finally revealed – and tasted – by special guests at a launch in the atmospheric setting of Edinburgh Castle’s Queen Anne Room. One precious bottle of Mortlach was piped into the Castle, escorted by guards from The Highlanders (4th Battalion).

The new-make spirit from Speyside’s Mortlach Distillery was filled into the cask on 15th October 1938 by John Urquhart, the grandfather of Gordon & MacPhail Joint Managing Directors, David and Michael Urquhart. Exactly 70 years later, the decision was made to carefully empty the cask and bottle the contents.

Founded in 1895, Gordon & MacPhail is known the world over as the custodian of some of the oldest and rarest single malts available. Members of the third and fourth generations of the Urquhart family now own and manage the business.

David and Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Directors of Gordon & MacPhail said:

“This is a very special day for us, one we’ve literally been anticipating for generations. Our family has been in the whisky business for a long time, with each generation building and handing on a lifetime’s expertise to the next.

“We believe Mortlach 70 Years Old is a malt without comparison. If the reaction of those lucky enough to enjoy a dram today is anything to go by, whisky fans and people wishing to own a unique piece of Scotland’s liquid history will be very excited about it.”

Charles MacLean, a well-known whisky writer and connoisseur, who was allowed a sneak preview of the single malt, described it as “a delicate, fresh, vital, fruity whisky, with unusual attributes of waxiness and smokiness.”

Each bottle will be beautifully presented in a tear-shaped hand-blown crystal decanter with an elegant silver stopper. The decanter nestles in a stylish silver base and is framed in a handmade Brazilian Rosewood box, created using wood from Forest Stewardship Council (FS C) Certified sources.

Mortlach 70 Years Old was matured in a Spanish oak, ex-bodega sherry hogshead cask, which yielded 54 full-size and 162 small decanters bottled at cask strength (46.1% ABV). The recommended retail price in the UK is £10,000 per 70cl decanter and £2,500 for the 20cl version.

This is the first in a series of extremely rare malt whiskies to be released by Gordon & MacPhail under its ‘Generations’ brand.

For more information visit www.gordonandmacphail.com

Category: Breaking news,New Releases,Scotch whisky Tags: , 53 Comments

March 8th, 2010

Review: The MacPhail’s Collection (Highland Park, Glenrothes, Tamdhu)

John Hansell

As you recall, I announced the 16th Annual Malt Advocate Whisky Award winners here back in February. Some of the award winners were never formally reviewed and rated for the Malt Advocate magazine Buyer’s Guide. I’ll be posting those up this week, beginning with our “Best Buy” award winner, so that these whiskies will be searchable in our Buyer’s Guide database. They’ll be published in the next issue of Malt Advocate.

Focus on “The MacPhail’s Collection”

Three whiskies. All 8 years old, and nicely matured. And all aged in refill sherry casks, for just the right amount of sherry influence without dominating the flavor profile. These days, it’s hard to find a nice single malt scotch for around $30-35. Here are three.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Highland Park), 43%, $30
The lightest and most appetizing of the three. Look for honeyed vanilla, mango, nectarine, pineapple in syrup, floral notes, and delicate brine. A fresh, easy drinking, “anytime” dram.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Glenrothes), 43%, $30
A pleasing, younger expression of this classic Speysider. Noticeably mouth-coating, with a malty foundation accentuated by toffee apple, chocolate covered nuts, and fresh grass. Very stylish.

82 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Tamdhu), 43%, $30
This distillery is (sadly) mothballed at the moment, and not always easy to find. The most aggressive of the three. Notes of burnt toffee, roasted nuts, ripe barley, citrus, vanilla, honey, and toasted marshmallow.

As I mentioned in the awards write-up, a Bunnahabhain 8 year old will also be added to the MacPhail’s Collection shortly.

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 13 Comments

February 1st, 2010

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Best Buy Whisky of the Year”: The MacPhail’s Collection

John Hansell

Best Buy Whisk(e)y of the Year:

The MacPhail’s Collection (Tamdhu 8 year old, Glenrothes 8 year old, Highland Park 8 year old), 43%, $30-$35

If you’re a single malt scotch drinker, you know that prices have really shot up over the past decade—much more than inflation. Now it’s becoming a challenge to find a good tasting, mature single malt for around $30.

Given the current economy, along with the rise in whisky prices, consumers are looking for good values. You’re going to be seeing more companies putting young whiskies on the market (without age statements) at attractive prices. But be careful: some of these whiskies will taste too youthful and immature.

The MacPhail’s Collection is a range of single malt whiskies which have been distilled at selected distilleries and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail. As part of this collection, we now have three very nice new releases for around $30, all eight years old and nicely matured. All are aged in refill sherry casks, for just the right amount of sherry influence without dominating the flavor profile.

These aren’t just nice-tasting whiskies. I also like the variety in the flavor profiles—the fresh, appetizing Highland Park; the mouth-coating, stylish Glenrothes; and the nutty, toffee-enriched Tamdhu. And you can have all three for about $100.

A fourth MacPhail’s Collection expression, a Bunnahabhain , also 8 years old and from a refill sherry cask, is about to be released. More whiskies like this, please!

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Award announcement: Artisan Whiskey of the Year.

Category: Awards,Malt Advocate Mag,Scotch whisky Tags: 65 Comments

January 3rd, 2010

Top five commenters get some rare Ledaig

John Hansell

I asked you to help me pick which rare whisky to open up on Christmas Eve on this blog posting. And, as I posted here on Christmas Eve, the bottle I opened, as decided by you, was the 1973 vintage, 16 year old “Connoisseurs Choice” Ledaig single malt scotch from the Isle of Mull. A delicious whisky!

As I promised I would do, I shared this bottle with many whisky lovers over the holidays. There’s about 1/3 of the bottle remaining, and I want to share what’s left too.

I thought the proper thing to do with the rest of the bottle is to share it with you. And it’s only fair to reward the most active commenters here on WDJK. So, I’m going to send 50 ml samples to my the top five commenters. As of the end of the year, they were (with number of comments):

Sam K (183)

Red_Arremer (172)

B.J. Reed (125)

Louis (110)

Two-bit Cowboy (94)

Congratulations guys! If you can send me a private email (john@maltadvocate.com) with your mailing address, I’ll get the sample out to you. If you want, please feel to post your thoughts of the whisky up here after you had the chance to taste it.

And in case you were curious, those just missing the top five:

Todd (87)

Bgulien (87)

Neil Fusillo (85)

butephoto (84)

J. C. Skinner (80)

Happy New Year everyone! Here’s to a great 2010! And thanks for stopping by.

Category: Opinions,Scotch whisky,Special events Tags: , 32 Comments

December 24th, 2009

And the winner is…

John Hansell

I asked you to help me pick which special whisky to open on Christmas eve by voting for your choice of three different whiskies, each bottled more than 20 years ago. Thank you for all your help.

Well, it’s 10:20pm on Christmas Eve. The rest of my family is working their way upstairs to bed. I tallied your votes, and the winner is…

It was a tie! Both the Caol Ila and Ledaig got 25 votes, with Dallas Dhu getting 14. So, after all this, I still must make a deciding vote. (It’s too late and I am too tired to open up two bottles.)

I chose the Ledaig, for the simple reason that the level of the whisky is at the lower part of the neck, and I don’t want it to get down to the shoulder.

I’m glad I did. It’s still in good shape, and it’s a very delicious whisky. No fancy tasting notes right now, but let me say it’s very smoky, peaty, leafy, and briny, with a lovely sweetness to match…an old-fashioned island whisky.

Let me thank my friends at Gordon & MacPhail for nurturing and bottling this whisky many years ago. And, as I sit here sipping end enjoying it, I toast all of you and wish you a Very Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and all the best to you in the New Year.

I will now do the right thing, and share it with my whisky-loving friends over the next week or so.

Slainte!

John

Category: Opinions,Scotch whisky Tags: 17 Comments

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