February 28th, 2011

Malt Advocate Whisky Awards “Top Ten New Whiskies”

John Hansell

There were many great whiskies released in 2010, and it’s good to know that (in an era of rapidly increasing prices) several of them are less than $100. Eight of the whiskies below were rated “Classic” status (95 points or higher); two more just missed it, with ratings of 94. Here they are, listed alphabetically:

Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection, 1995 Vintage, “American Oak Chips Seasoned,” 45%, $47/375ml
Surprisingly light and fresh for a 15 year old whiskey. Crisply spiced, with hints of dried fruit, kissed with light honey and a wisp of smoke. Balanced and clean throughout, and very drinkable.

Compass Box Flaming Heart (10th Anniversary bottling), 48.9%, $105
A marriage of seven different whiskies from three distilling regions (Highland, Islay, and Island) aged in both American and French oak casks. It demonstrates the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery. More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance. Well played!

Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve, 40%, $70
Perhaps the finest Canadian whisky we have ever tasted. Creamy and seamless from beginning to end. Forty Creek whiskies have always been very good, but none have ever had the right stuff to reach classic status. Until now, that is. An outstanding, very distinctive whisky!

George T. Stagg, 71.5%, $70
Very close to last year’s release in personality, with great balance between the sweetness, spice, and fruit. Nicely structured too, with clearly defined flavor notes. A great value, considering it’s almost the equivalent of two bottles of bourbon if diluted.

GlenDronach Grandeur, 31 year old, 45.8%, $700
The new ultra-mature release, following its 33 year old predecessor (bottled by previous owners). It’s nice to see the higher ABV. Very soothing. Quite deep on the nose, and viscous (almost sappy) on the palate. I like that it’s sherried, and the sherry is kept in balance.

Glenfarclas, 40 year old, 46%, $460
Glenfarclas has a solid reputation for aging very well. This new 40 year old is proof.  It’s complex and well-rounded, with great depth and no excessive oak. A classic, well-matured Glenfarclas — and a very good value for its age.

Glenglassaugh, 40 year old, 44.6%, $2,525
An excellent example of a very mature, sherried whisky done the right way. Much darker and more decadent than its younger siblings. Tasting this whisky, you know it’s old, but you also know it’s very good.

The Glenlivet Cellar Collection, 1973 vintage, 49%, $1,250
A marriage of three casks, one of them an ex-sherry butt. The sherry is certainly evident, and this one is more sherried than many of the Cellar Collection whiskies. Polished and seamless, with no trace of excessive oak. One of the richest — and finest — Cellar Collections to date.

Sazerac Rye, 18 year old, 45%, $70
An impressive whiskey, and an improvement from last year’s release. It’s soft (for a straight rye), well rounded, and easy to embrace, with tamed spice, subtle date, and polished leather on the finish. An excellent example of a very mature rye whiskey.

William Larue Weller, 63.3%, $70
Very similar to last year’s release. (A good thing, since that one was wonderful!) Very smooth, with layered sweetness, dark fruit, cinnamon, and polished oak on the finish. A whisky of elegance and sophistication. A benchmark wheated bourbon.

Category: Awards,New Releases Tags: , , , , , , , , , 37 Comments

January 14th, 2011

Review: Focus on new Glenglassaugh releases (26, 30 and 40 year old)

John Hansell

This distillery was closed from 1986 until 2008, when new owners purchased the distillery and restarted it. These whiskies were distilled by the previous owner.

Glenglassaugh, 40 year old, 44.6%, $2,525

An excellent example of an ultra-mature, sherried whisky done the right way. Much darker and more decadent than the other two releases here. Silky texture. Rummy, jammy fruit, toasted walnut, leather, spice (cinnamon, clove), tobacco, and dark chocolate, with a foundation of juicy oak. Tasting this whisky, you know it’s old, but you also know it’s very good.

Advanced Malt Advocate rating: 95

Glenglassaugh, 26 year old, 46%, $260

A polished whisky, light-medium in body with well-rounded flavors. Fruity (ripe orange, lemon gumdrops, candy apple), with creamy vanilla and a honeyed, toasted malt foundation. Soft, gentle oak throughout. What a lovely, gentle-natured whisky, straight down the middle! Bonus points for versatility.

Advanced Malt Advocate rating: 90

Glenglassaugh, 30 year old, 43%, $694

An intriguing whisky. Blueberry cobbler, crushed grape, maple syrup, nougat, and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg). The oak is polished and unimposing. Liqueur-ish. A nice contrast to its younger sibling, and it’s more polarizing because of its distinctiveness.

Advanced Malt Advocate rating: 86

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 15 Comments

October 7th, 2010

Guest blog: Book review of “Glenglassaugh”

John Hansell

Note: This the first in a series of regular book reviews, exclusive to WDJK, by Malt Advocate features writer, Jonny McCormick.

I’m in San Francisco to host Whiskyfest. Maybe I will see you there?

 

Glenglassaugh – A Distillery Reborn by Ian Buxton
 The Angel’s Share (Neil Wilson Publishing, Glasgow) |118 pages

by Jonny McCormick

Many of you will share the same scepticism as I do when it comes to approaching whisky books directly commissioned by a distillery company. However, this newly published history of Glenglassaugh distillery has much to recommend it and this high-quality book could comfortably find a place on the shelf of any single malt lover.  Whilst Ian Buxton (pictured) was Director of Marketing for the Glenglassaugh Distillery Co Ltd during this book’s creation, he has had the access and insight to complement his experience as an author without the end result becoming a glossy marketing endeavour, a process he has described as “semi-detached”.

Glenglassaugh – A Distillery Reborn makes absorbing reading from the early history of distilling in the area around the small settlement of Portsoy, Aberdeenshire and the local accomplishments of Colonel James Moir who had the distillery built in 1875 with typical Victorian vigour through to the recent history of the negotiations into the purchase of the distillery and existing stock in 2008 by the Scaent investment group from Highland Distillers who had mothballed the site in 1986. Buxton keeps the history engaging and informative including quirky asides about characters associated with the distillery.

A chapter is devoted to the major developments and changes of ownership from the late 19th century through to its cyclical periods of activity and closure in the 20th century. This includes contributions from Jim Cryle, Glenglassaugh distillery’s manager in the early 1970s and later The Glenlivet’s Master Distiller, as he recounts how attempts were made to tame this Highland spirit made with hard water from the Fordyce Burn by using soft water from Rothes brought in by tanker along with experimental changes made to distillation to try to create a Glenrothes style malt demanded by the owners of the day.

A short reference chapter on the few official and independent bottlings (backed up with an impressive photographic record) separates the old history from the renaissance as Scaent go shopping for a distillery.

Stuart Nickerson, Managing Director is central to the purchase before overseeing the million pound refurbishment as equipment left dormant for two decades is cleaned, repaired or renewed and replaced in time for that first mash on 24th November 2008.

Throughout the book, but especially at this point, the story comes alive with the accompanying original photographs by sought-after distillery photographer Ian MacIlwain (best known for the captivating Bottled History, see Malt Advocate, Q4 2009). From the dereliction of warehouse and malting floor, the dull sheen of the copper-domed Porteus mash tun to the industry of Forsyth’s men as they breathe life back into the neglected stills, MacIlwain creates studied images worthy of lingering contemplation.

With a nod to his Classic Expressions series, Buxton ends with a colour facsimile of the pamphlet by Alfred Barnard commissioned by Highland Distillers in 1898 where he described his journey to Glenglassaugh, then a mighty powerhouse with a solid reputation, interspersed with historical photographs of the young distillery. Fortunately for Glenglassaugh, there is no longer an end to its story.

Category: Book Reviews,Guest Blogger,Writers Tags: 10 Comments

July 22nd, 2009

Own your own cask of Glenglassaugh

John Hansell

We received this note from Stuart Nickerson of Glenglassaugh distillery yesterday. Since Stuart recently was a guest blogger here on WDJK,  I thought I would pass along part of it to you. An Octave isn’t a lot of whisky, and it should mature more quickly than a typical bourbon barrel or sherry butt.

Small Cask Purchase Opportunity
We have recently started filling Octave casks with our new spirit and are selling these for private consumption to either private individuals or groups of friends. The Octaves contain around 50 litres of Spirit and are anticipated to mature quickly with bottling anticipated after around 5 to 7 years. The price per cask is affordable for an individual or as a purchase by a whisky club with the opportunity to personalise the cask by having your own inscription on one end of it and also be personalising the bottles at a future date.

To find out more about this opportunity then the best starting point is to read my original blog on the subject and the comments at the end of the blog, http://blog.glenglassaugh.com/?p=76 it is also worth reading the two question and answer blogs http://blog.glenglassaugh.com/?p=80 and http://blog.glenglassaugh.com/?p=82 

If you have any questions, just email me direct (stuart.nickerson@glenglassaugh.com) and I will do my best to answer them.

Kind Regards

Stuart Nickerson
Managing Director
Glenglassaugh Distillery Company Limited

Category: Scotch whisky,Special offers Tags: 4 Comments

June 22nd, 2009

Guest blogger: Stuart Nickerson, Glenglassaugh Distillery

John Hansell

Every month or so, I invite a guest blogger (usually from inside the industry) just to keep things fresh and exciting. We’ve had some great guest bloggers (John Glaser of Compass Box Whisky, Willie Tait from Isle of Jura, Jim Rutledge from Four Roses Distillery).

Today we are fortunate enough to hear from Stuart Nickerson, Managing Director of Glenglassaugh. I’d like to thank Stuart for taking the time to participate here.

If anyone has any questions about Glenglassaugh, here’s your chance to get them answers.

An Opportunity
stuartlowrezWhen John offered me the chance to be a guest blogger, I thought great here is a real chance to say what we are doing to an appreciative audience which is mainly USA based but then I started to think well what does he want me to say – there was a very good article by David Wishart which appeared in Malt Advocate last year and to which I couldn’t add much. I decided to approach John and ask him for his thoughts but he just said “take us behind the scenes and tell us what is happening” but he also stressed he did not want a sales pitch.

Well that last one is easy because so far we don’t have a distributor for our products in the USA, so despite the warning here goes for the one, sorry John, sales pitch – if there is an importer out there who is looking to develop limited edition single malt scotch whiskies all of which are aged for more than 20 years then get in contact with me.

The last, almost 16 months, has been an exciting roller-coaster ride as the distillery was bought, people were recruited, the distillery was re-furbished and production re-started at Glenglassaugh and the whiskies were bottled and brought to market.

Glenglassaugh was shut in 1986 because Highland Distilleries wanted more Speyside malt for their blends and Glenglassaugh being a highland malt produced a slightly different style of whisky. As Highland had no plans to re-open the distillery they readily agreed to sell it to us, following my approach. However in the intervening 22 years very little maintenance had been carried out on the buildings and plant and even though the mash tun, washbacks and stills were in reasonable condition, £1.0m was required to re-furbish the distillery before we started production again in November 2008.

We were lucky to have the production records used in the 1980’s and so we could run the process using the same mass, volumes, temperatures, flowrates and cut-points as those used previously. This gave us confidence that we had a good opportunity that we would produce a good quality new make spirit, although I will admit to being nervous on 4th December 2008 when the first spirit ran from the stills but Graham Eunson and myself were very pleased with the results.

glenglassaughnewmakeWe hadn’t planned to sell our new make spirit but were requested to consider doing so by customers in Europe. The fact that we were producing a spirit that both Graham and I felt was better than any other which we had come across made the decision to release the spirit in a bottle relatively easy. However we wanted to make it a bit different and so we decided to capture all the spirit from a single mash making this a limited edition individually numbered product, different from other new makes which are available. We were also careful to ensure that they labelling complied with all Scotch Whisky legislation and so have been very careful to stress that it is not whisky on the label and to further underline the fact we have called it “The Spirit Drink that dare not speak its name” and finally we have disguised the distilleries name Glen____gh to ensure that the consumer could not be confused into thinking that it was whisky.

We had always intended to release a 6 month old product to celebrate the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival which takes place in Portsoy in at the start of July. We are currently bottling this spirit, which we still can’t call whisky and will be in a position to start selling on the 3rd of July and all I can say at the moment is that this is a distinctly different drink which has been well received by the few people who have tried it so far and is liable to take everyone by surprise.

We are very interested in investigating the effects of maturing in Glenglassaugh in different cask types, so this year we have decided not to vary the new make spirit but we have bought several different types of casks. We have various ex-fortified wine casks, Sherry, Madeira and Port as well as some ex-wine casks, dechar/rechar casks and scotch re-fill casks. We also have a significant number of ex-bourbon casks which we purchased direct from Kentucky and which we believe will allow the fruit characteristic of the spirit to be enhanced. We have also started to mature in smaller casks so that we can evaluate the effect of maturation in these casks and we hope to see them mature the spirit faster and so it should be ready for bottling sooner.

glenglassaughlowresWe decided to try and sell some of these smaller casks to people who followed my blog and we were very surprised by the high level of interest, mainly from the northern European countries. The casks, octaves, hold only 50 litres and we expect that the whisky will be ready for bottling within 3 to 7 years and as we bottle all of our products on site then the cask owner can have the whole process carried out here. With the high level of initial interest we decided to open this up to other interested people and have had a continuing very good response.

We have plans to introduce another cask purchase offer, this time for larger casks, but we have still to finalise details on this one and should be ready to announce the details in September.

We also have plans to build a visitor centre at the distillery and although we have completed the feasibility study there detail plans to be developed, cost and agreed and hopefully we can have this operating by the middle of next year.

If anyone is interested in finding out more about the distillery or what we are doing then please visit the web site www.glenglassaugh.com or look at my blog http://blog.glenglassaugh.com and add any comments or just drop me an email stuart.nickerson@glenglassaugh.com

Category: Guest Blogger,Scotch whisky Tags: 7 Comments



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