We went American, as we often have in the past. American whiskey is still an outstanding value, with many excellent bottlings under $30, and some still quite tasty under $20. We zeroed in on about five good ones, then tossed a few aside somewhat cavalierly because they were too expensive…over $15! That’s the kind of value you can find in this category.

That still left us with two bourbons: Heaven Hill’s Evan Williams and Buffalo Trace’s Very Old Barton 100 Proof. On value by the numbers, it was a toss-up. Evan Williams is a dollar or two less, but the VOB is higher proof, but the Evan is probably a bit older… Back and forth: no tie-breaker.

The tale in the glass was no different. Evan Williams is a sophisticated whiskey for its price: smooth, a great aroma, and neither gets lost in nor dominates a cocktail, a classic table bourbon. Very Old Barton is an equally impressive example of another category of bourbon, the pleasantly rough ride: a whiskey with vigor, robust corn character, and unabashed power that lets you know you’ve had a snort, while not so aggressive that it leaves you gasping.

We finally realized we didn’t have to choose one over the other, and neither do you. Both of these are excellent values; in fact, at these prices, you can happily buy both!

This is the first of the 17th Annual Malt Advocate Whisky Awards to be announced. One award will be announced each day through February 28, 2011. Tomorrow, the “Artisan Whisky of the Year” will be revealed.

Let’s make it five straight American whiskey review posts…

Evan Williams Single Barrel, 2001 Vintage (Barrel #1), 43.3%, $26

While last year’s vintage was a more delicate expression of Evan Williams, I loved it for its elegance, charm, and balance (and gave it a 95 rating). This one is darker in flavor and bolder, with more caramelized sugars (caramel, toffee, maple syrup) along with some underlying fruit. It’s also drier, spicier, and with more wood influence (resin and polished leather). It still maintains its balance on the nose and majority of the palate, but with more wood on the finish than I would prefer to rate it in the 90s. (One more thing to consider: it’s a single barrel bottling and no two barrels are alike.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

You wanted me to review value whiskeys. I’m delivering.

Old Crow Reserve, 4 year old, 43%, $12
A new “upgrade” from the standard Old Crow, which is only three years old. Soft aroma of sweet corn, candy corn, vanilla and light caramel. Similar follow through on the palate—predominently sweet, with more corn, vanilla, and light caramel. It finishes sweet (too sweet, actually), a bit grainy, and slightly hot. 

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 75

If this brand is meant to compete with Evan Williams, then this four year old should be the standard “Old Crow” and the Reserve expression should be more like five or six years old, because the standard Evan Williams bottling (with no age statement) reviewed  below is clearly superior to Old Crow Reserve. Old Crow Reserve is too sweet and lacks oak notes for balance and complexity. It’s acceptable enough as a mixing bourbon or perhaps on the rocks, but I wouldn’t drink this neat or with water.

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And now, the Evan Williams Review:

Evan Williams, 43%, $12
Nice balance of honeyed vanilla, caramel, soft oak and a hint of summer fruits and creamy coconut on both the nose and palate. Soft, lightly dried spice notes emerge on a pleasant, albiet brief, finish. Economically priced to use as a mixer or on the rocks, but also high enough quality to enjoy neat or with a splash of water.  A highly versatile bourbon.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 81

Bottom line here: If you’re looking for a versatile,  inexpensive bourbon to have on hand, Evan Williams is a good choice.

P.S. I shared these two bourbons with a few very experienced bourbon drinkers over the weekend (some of them WDJK readers), and our feelings were unanimous.

Evan Williams Single Barrel (2000 vintage), Barrel No. 1, 43.3%, $26
Very elegant, bright and silky smooth, with honey-kissed summer fruits, subtle tropical fruit (papaya, coconut, pineapple), gentle caramel, sweet corn, and soothing vanilla, along with a dusting of cinnamon, nutmeg and crisp mint. Pleasing, gently spicy finish. The most impressive aspect of this whiskey isn’t its variety of flavors (they are fairly traditional for a bourbon this age). It’s the integration and remarkable balance of these flavors! It’s also perilously drinkable. I can’t speak for the other barrels, but if you can track down some Barrel #1, buy two! You won’t be disappointed. Let me also note what a great value this whiskey is, compared to the way other premium American whiskeys are being priced. 

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95

And just for fun, here’s their entire uncut interview with me, discussing drinking alone vs. drinking with other people, among other things (after I had a drink or two, as I recall). Enjoy!:

So, my question is this: How much do single barrel bottlings differ from one barrel to the next?

No two barrels are the same, and that’s the charm of single barrel bottlings. But what are the chances that the next bottle you buy from that brand will taste drastically different than the last one?

Is it your experience that the variation from one single barrel bottling to another is relatively small, or have you noticed big differences? Be specific if you can.

This year’s Evan Williams Single Barrel: 15th vintage!! 2000 vintage.

Master Distiller Parker Beam talking about the new vintage!! Cool!

Parker and Craig Beam pouring. Damn I’m thirsty for a bourbon–out of the barrel, no less!  142.9 proof! Their highest ever!

This is the closest thing I will get to Communion!!

Gary Regan: I poured too much water in mine, can you top it up Craig?

Why didn’t I think of that?

Larry Kass at Heaven Hill (not pictured): ” We have this really cool high speed bottling line. You should see it.”

Me thinking to myself: “Oh no, not another bottling line! The least exciting part of any distillery tour.”

And to end my evening at the bar called Proof: a penguin taking care of business, surprising us all…

EVAN WILLIAMS HONEY RESERVE FLAVORED BOURBON TO BE LAUNCHED IN SEPTEMBER

New bottling leverages popularity of both flavored spirits and Evan Williams Kentucky Straight Bourbon.

BARDSTOWN, KY–Heaven Hill Distilleries, Inc., the country’s largest independent family-owned and operated spirits producer and marketer, announces the release of Evan Williams Honey Reserve Kentucky Liqueur, a new product that marries extra-aged Evan Williams Bourbon with real, natural honey.  Bottled at 70 proof and available in both a 750ml and 50ml size, Evan Williams Honey Reserve will be shipping to select markets across the country in September at an average retail price of $14.99 for the 750ml bottle.

Evan Williams Honey Reserve takes advantage of several established trends in the distilled spirits industry in general and the American straight whiskey category in particular.  First is the ongoing success of flavored spirits, whose growth is more than double that of unflavored spirits; second is the continued popularity of Bourbon,  especially Evan Williams which showed a double digit sales percentage increase in 2008; and thirdly the growth of mid-tier products, with ultra-premium brands down 2.5% and brands perceived as a better value up 5.4% year-to-date, according to AC Neilsen.  By combining Evan Williams extra-aged Bourbon, the second largest selling Bourbon brand in the United States and the world and a “Best Buy Whiskey of the Year” winner, with all-natural pure honey, Evan Williams Honey Reserve is the right product at the right time.

Packaged in the highly-recognizable square Evan Williams bottle, with a clear label carrying a striking and stylized rendition of a honey bee and a black and yellow capsule closure, Evan Williams Honey Reserve draws on the equity of the Evan Williams brand franchise, but with a contemporary flair.  At an approachable 70 proof, and with the addition of pure honey that gives it a sweet, easy-to-drink Bourbon flavor, Evan Williams Honey Reserve lives up to its tagline of “All Flavor.  No Sting.”

“We have seen remarkable success with Evan Williams Black Label and Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage Bourbons,” asserted Heaven Hill brand manager Susan Wahl.  “Given the strength of the Evan Williams brand franchise and the on-going success of the flavored spirits sub-category, we believe it is the perfect time in which to launch Evan Williams Honey Reserve.  And with a very approachable price point and a full range of retail and on-premise marketing materials available, we are expecting this to fly off the shelves.”

To create a “buzz”, Evan Williams Honey Reserve is supported by an array of retail display materials–including a permanent wire rack, floor bin, shelf talkers, case cards and a 50ml counter unit–allowing off-premise operators to create impactful displays that will capture consumer attention.  In order to generate sampling in bars and restaurants, on-premise POS including chiller machines, posters, table tents, T-shirts, shot glasses and buttons will be made available.  All POS materials utilize striking graphics and the “All Flavor.  No Sting.” positioning, rendered, appropriately, in yellow and black graphics.  Support materials also emphasize that Evan Williams Honey Reserve can be consumed as a shot or in a variety of delicious simple cocktails such as the Honey Splash and the Stinger.