May 16th, 2011

Buffalo Trace’s new “Single Oak” project: Part 1

John Hansell

Buffalo Trace newest (and biggest) project was announced a couple weeks back. For those of you who haven’t heard about it yet (which is understandable given that the whiskeys are only now getting into circulation), here’s an excerpt from the press release:

Beginning in 1999, then Warehouse Manager Ronnie Eddins traveled to the Missouri Ozarks to hand pick 96 trees, consisting of fine grain, medium grain and coarse grain wood, based on the tree’s growth rings. Each type of grain indicates a different growth rate and will yield a different flavor profile.  From there, each tree was cut into a top and a bottom piece, yielding 192 unique sections. Next stop was the lumber yard, where staves were created from each section and were tagged and tracked. The staves were divided into two groups and given different air dried seasonings, 6 months and 12 months.  The air drying allows Mother Nature to break down some of the more harsh flavored characteristics commonly found in wood.  

After all the staves were air dried, a single barrel was then created from each tree section, resulting in 192 total barrels.

The next step in the process was to experiment with different char levels of the barrels. Two different char levels were used, a number three and a number four char. (The standard char level for all Buffalo Trace products is a number four char, which is a 55 second burn.

Then, barrels were filled with one of two different recipes, a wheat and a rye recipe bourbon. To further the variety of experiments, barrels were filled at two different proofs, 105 proof and 125 proof.  And if this wasn’t enough, two completely different warehouses were used, one with a wooden ricks and one with concrete floors.  In total, seven different variables were employed in Buffalo Trace’s ultimate experiment.

And then, the waiting began.  For eight years the Distillery continued with its tracking process, creating intricate databases and coming up with a potential of 1,396 tasting combinations from these 192 barrels!

The Single Oak project is part of a much larger, and noble, effort: to create the perfect bourbon. How? By asking consumers to rate the whiskey they taste and then provide this feedback to Buffalo Trace via this new website that has been established for the Single Oak project.  As the press release puts it:

On the website, consumers create a profile and after rating each bottle, will then see the aging details and provenance of each barrel. They can interact with others who have also reviewed the barrel, compare their reviews on the same barrel, and even use it as a learning process for themselves by discovering which characteristics they like in a bourbon to help them select future favorites.  

Participants online will earn points after reach review and most importantly, help Buffalo Trace Distillery create the perfect bourbon!

According to Mark, at the conclusion of the project, they plan to take the top rated barrel, make more of that product and launch it under the Single Oak Project nameplate. So, ultimately, the 192 unique barrels with 1,396 tasting combinations will lead to one style of bourbon. One damned good bourbon!

I say this is only part of a much larger effort to create the perfect bourbon because over the years, Mark Brown, President and CEO of Buffalo Trace, has told me of some of his other projects to achieve this goal. One of them is to critically deconstruct the tasting notes and ratings of key whiskey writers (including yours truly). Incidentally, he told me just last week that, even though each of us may differ the way we describe our whiskeys, there is common ground in our reviews too. (He didn’t go into detail, so I suppose we’ll save that for a later time.)

Will the lucky ones who actually happen to get their hands on a bottle of Single Oak Project whiskey take the time to rate it and record it on the Single Oak Project website? Only time will tell, but I hope so.

Here’s another snippet from the press release, describing the logistics of the first release (and future releases):

The first release of the Single Oak Project Bourbon is expected to hit stores nationwide in very limited quantities around the end of May. Each release will consist of 12 unique single barrel bourbons.

Every case will contain 12 bottles, each from a different barrel. The first release is made up of barrel numbers 3, 4, 35, 36, 67, 68, 99, 100, 131, 132, 163 and 164. Each of these barrels had the same entry proof, seasoning, char level and warehouse aging location. However, the  hope is to identify the differences in taste based on recipe, wood grain size and tree cut as these characteristics varied amongst this group of barrels.

There will be a series of releases over the next four years until all of the 192 barrels have been released.  All releases will be packaged in a 375ml bottle. Suggested retail pricing is $46.35. 

In Part 2 of my post on this project (which will probably be later in the week), I will get out my secret decoder ring and tell you about the first 12 releases and how each barrel of bourbon differs. Additionally, I’ve tasted all of them and, while I don’t plan on rating them formally, I will give you my general thoughts on them (including which ones I liked, the ones I would take a pass on, and why).

Stay tuned!

Category: American whiskey,Bourbon,New Releases,Opinions,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: 32 Comments

January 6th, 2011

Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (2010 Release)

John Hansell

I think this might be the best annual release of these five whiskeys so far. All are classics, or very close to it.

96 William Larue Weller, 63.3%, $70

Very similar to last year’s release. (A good thing, since it was wonderful!) Very smooth, with layered sweetness (toffee, fig cake, nougat, maple syrup), dark fruit (black raspberry, blueberry), cinnamon, and polished oak on the finish. A whisky of elegance and sophistication.

95 Sazerac Rye, 18 year old, 45%, $70

This was my second lowest rated whiskey from the 2009 Collection (a 91 rating). This one is an impressive whiskey, and an improvement from last year. It’s soft (for a straight rye), well rounded, and easy to embrace, with tamed spice (cinnamon, mint, vanilla, mocha), nougat, toffee, fruit (bramble, subtle citrus), subtle date, and polished leather on the finish. Buffalo Trace is playing a shell game with this aged rye (being stored in stainless steel tanks over the past several years until new stocks mature), but in this instance there seems to be a prize under every shell. Well done!

94 George T. Stagg, 71.5%, $70

Very close to last year’s release in personality, with great balance between the sweetness, spice, and fruit. Nicely structured, with clearly defined notes of toffee, molasses, cinnamon, vanilla bean, dried citrus, brittle mint, roasted nuts, tobacco, and polished leather on the finish. A great value too, considering it’s almost the equivalent of two bottles of bourbon.

93 Thomas H. Handy Rye, 63.45%, $70

One of the best Handy offerings yet. Very vibrant with dynamic spice (firm mint, warming cinnamon, allspice, hint of clove) and lush fruit (citrus, orchard fruit, golden raisin, brandy, and teasing coconut), all tamed by a bed of soothing caramel and honey. It’s not easy for a whisky to come across as excitingly youthful, yet nicely matured. It’s a difficult balance to achieve, and this whiskey finds that balance.

93 Eagle Rare, 17 year old, 45%, $70

The only setback from last year’s Antique Collection release, when I rated it an 84 because it was showing too much wood (especially compared to the 2007-2008 releases). The 2010 release is back on track, with great balance, and showing very traditional notes of vanilla toffee, rummy molasses, dusty corn, soft summer fruit, and a sprinkling of spice (cinnamon, mint, cocoa), with oak resin to balance out the sweet notes.

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: 72 Comments

November 29th, 2010

Top 10 rated whiskies in the new issue of Malt Advocate

John Hansell

Here’s a sneak peek  of the top 10 rated whiskies in the upcoming issue of Malt Advocate magazine (the Winter 2010 issue). Most have been reviewed here already, but I thought it would be helpful if you had them all organized in one post.

96 Redbreast, 12 year old, 40%, $43
Very elegant, complex, and stylish. Honeyed and silky in texture, with toffee, toasted marshmallow, nougat, maple syrup, banana bread, and a hint of toasted coconut. Bright fruit and golden raisin blend in nicely with the layers of sweetness. Impeccable balance and very approachable. Classic Irish whiskey!

95 Compass Box Flaming Heart (10th Anniversary bottling), 48.9%, $105
A marriage of three different single malts, aged in American and French oak. This whisky shows the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery (when properly done). Vibrant, with a complex array of fruit (orchard fruit, sultana), sweetness (light toffee, marzipan, honeyed malt), spice (creamy vanilla, mocha, warming pepper), smoke (tar, smoked olive, coal), and lesser notes of toasted almond and beach pebbles. More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance. Well played!

95 Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection, 1995 Vintage, “American Oak Chips Seasoned,” 45%, $47/375ml
Surprisingly light and fresh for a 15 year old whiskey. Crisply spiced, with cinnamon, evergreen, vanilla, anise, and teaberry. Hints of dried fruit, kissed with light honey and a wisp of smoke. Balanced and clean throughout, and very drinkable. An excellent whiskey!

95 Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve, 40%, $70
Perhaps the finest Canadian whisky I have ever tasted. Creamy and seamless from beginning to end. Gently sweet, with orange creamsicle, marzipan, sultana, praline, maple syrup, and a hint of coconut macaroon. Forty Creek whiskies have always been very good, but none have ever had the right stuff to reach classic status. Until now, that is. An outstanding, very distinctive whisky!

94 Highland Park, 1970 vintage, 48%, £2,250
This limited edition bottling consists of a marriage of both European and American oak. Still lively for its age, and beautifully balanced. Bountiful golden fruit (sultana, pineapple upside down cake, tangerine, overripe nectarine) balanced by soothing, creamy vanilla. A peppering of dried spice, chamomile tea, toasted oak, cigar box, and subtle smoke round out the palate. Soft and seductive. (Not available in the U.S.)

94 Knob Creek Single Barrel, 9 year old, 60%, $40
This new single barrel expression of Knob Creek tastes very similar to the original “small batch” Knob Creek (when brought down to the same alcohol level). If anything, it’s slightly drier, more elegant, not as heavy on the palate, and more sophisticated — but I am reaching here. The similarity is a good thing, because I really enjoy the original expression. Keeping in mind that no two barrels are exactly alike, your decision to purchase the single barrel might just come down to whether you want to pay a little more for a higher strength version, and whether knowing that it might taste a little different than the standard small batch bottling excites you. This is a stylish, big, broad-shouldered bourbon with a thick, sweet foundation (nutty toffee, pot still rum, maple syrup) peppered with spice (cinnamon, but also vanilla and evergreen) and dried fruit. Dry, warming, resinous finish. (Incidentally, I would rate the small batch within a point or two, and the tasting notes would be very similar.)

93 Parker’s Heritage Collection (2010 release), 10 year old, 63.9%, $80
Soft, sweet, and very smooth. Richly textured layers of caramel, toffee, vanilla fudge, nougat, maple syrup, and rhum agricole. Blackberry, date nut bread, cinnamon, subtle cocoa, and nutmeg add complexity. Clean, polished, and perilously drinkable. A delicious wheated bourbon! (Not quite the complexity of the 2009 William Larue Weller (a benchmark wheated bourbon which I rated a 96), but getting close.

93 High West Straight Rye Whiskey, 12 year old, 46%, $50/375ml
A bottling from only five barrels of 95% rye whiskey produced at the former Seagram’s distillery in Indiana. It’s the American whiskey equivalent of drinking Ardbeg Supernova. Powerful and invigorating are words that come to mind. Crisp mint, warming cinnamon, dried citrus, cocoa, roasted nuts, and subtle botanicals are soothed by caramel, molasses, and honeyed orchard fruit. Brisk, bracing, spicy finish. The notes are clean, and the whiskey’s not just a one-trick “rye” pony. The sweetness balances the rye spice quite nicely. If you just can’t get enough rye in your whiskey, then this one’s for you. (Available only at the High West Distillery in Park City, Utah.)

93 Caribou Crossing, Single Barrel, 40%, $50
Those of you who think Canadian whiskies are thin and bland should give this one a try. No, it’s not a new concept, like Forty Creek. It’s still very much a “traditional” Canadian. But when compared to most Canadian whiskies, it’s richer, creamier, and velvety smooth. The flavors are straightforward — primarily vanilla, with some crème brûlée, toasted marshmallow, tangerine, peaches and cream, and gentle rye spice — but they are clean and well-balanced. A delicious, lighter-style whisky.

92 Duncan Taylor “NC2” (distilled at Aberlour), 16 year old, 46%, $80
This whisky packs a lot of clean, complex, and well-balanced flavors. It features a creamy, layered, malty-sweet foundation (vanilla, caramel, toffee) chock full of bright fruit (golden raisin, honeyed orchard fruit, currant), rounded out by firm, dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint) that dances on the palate. Long, warming, spicy finish. Nicely done!

Category: Bourbon,Canadian whisky,Malt Advocate Mag,New Releases,Reviews Tags: , , , , , , , , , 56 Comments

December 14th, 2009

Your predictions for 2010?

John Hansell

Okay everyone, get out your crystal ball. What do you see happening to the whisky (and whiskey) industry in 2010? I’ll start the discussion by making a couple of predictions myself.

 
More experimental American whiskeys
The American whiskey industry was very slow getting on the experimenting bandwagon (relative to Scotch, Japanese, and Irish whiskey). But with the likes of Woodford Reserve’s Master’s Collection whiskeys, High West’s “Bourye“, The Party Sources “Wheat on Rye” Experimental Whiskey (in association with Buffalo Trace Distillery), and the blossoming small, artisanal distilleries, I think (or at least I hope) 2010 will see more different kinds of experimental bourbons and other American whiskeys on the market than ever before.

More Scotch whiskies without age statements
Across the pond in Scotland, I think more and more distilleries will continue abandoning age statements. It gives them more flexibility in what goes in the bottle. It will also help them blend in younger whiskey coming on the market with existing stocks of older whisky and still command a fair price for it.

Now it’s your turn. Tell us what you think will happen in 2010. We can come back to this one year from now and see how well we did.

Category: Bourbon,Opinions,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky Tags: , , , 32 Comments

November 6th, 2009

Review: Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection “Twice Barreled”

John Hansell

136Both of these whiskeys were re-barreled into new charred oak barrels. The difference is that one is just older than the other (11-plus years versus 16-plus years). Full details on each bottling are here. I love these experiments! They push the extremes, open our eyes, and create excitement.

 

 

 

Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection “Double Barreled,” 1997 Vintage, 45%, $47

Nice effort overall. My gut feeling is that this whiskey might have been better a couple years ago, but I wouldn’t call the second barrel impact excessive. It’s rich and smooth, with sweeter notes of caramel, rich vanilla and subtle candied fruit, underpinned by firm spice (especially cinnamon) which kicks in on the finish. It comes across as very traditional bourbon with perhaps a little extra oak impact on the back end.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection “Double Barreled,” 1993 Vintage, 45%, $47

A big bourbon in many respects, but this is one whiskey where I would have happily settled for a “Single Barreled.” To be honest, there are some good qualities to this whiskey. The nose is wonderful! (I tasted this whiskey straight from the barrel right before it was bottled and it was more aggressive. I think the lower strength and chill-filtering has helped to tame this beast.) Even the palate starts out fine, with chewy toffee, molasses, dark fruit, raisin and dates. But it is quickly consumed by intensely dry oak spice, gripping resin, and leather which clings to my tongue and won’t let go. In this instance, last impressions are lasting impressions.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 71

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 3 Comments

September 19th, 2009

Six incredibly rare whiskies (one bottle produced of each) for WhiskyFest San Francisco

John Hansell

Six different whiskymakers from six different distilleries have agreed to make a unique bottle of whisky (bottle #1 of 1) just for WhiskyFest San Francisco, which takes place on October 16th. Attendees will be able to taste a 1/2 ounce pour for a requested $20 donation to charity (Meals on Wheels).

Here are the six whiskies, along with a description of each, as provided by the whiskymaker.

Isle of Jura- Willie Tait: “I put a hogs head of Jura down on the 23rd Nov 1989, on my daughter’s 13th birthday. This was my legacy for my children, as they have already taken all my money.”

Bruichladdich- Jim McEwan: “The title of my whisky will be “Working on a Dream” it will be a vatting of 46 years of Bruichladdich as that is the time I have been in the business. A single malt made by humble men on the west coast of Islay whereby you can feel and taste their personality, honesty and passion in every sip you take.”

The Dalmore- Richard Paterson: As Neil Armstrong stepped onto the lunar surface for the very first time at 02.56 GMT on 21st July 1969, the new spirit of Dalmore down on Earth on this very same day was being transported onto the circular surface of American White Oak to begin its epic journey too.

The Balvenie- David Stewart: David now has an intimate knowledge of where his personal favorites are within the Balvenie warehouses, many of which he has been carefully nurturing for several years. David’s unique bottling will be a single cask sampling drawn directly from one of this highly personal selections.

Glenfiddich- Brian Kinsman: Cask samples are retained long after the cask has long been bottled and savored. They form a historical archive of Glenfiddich’s greatest and best. Brian will be selecting from these precious remnants to craft a unique and unrepeatable one-bottle “vatting” of Glenfiddich.

Buffalo Trace- Our charity Buffalo Trace bottle contains the very first sample ever drawn from our “Millennium Barrel.” This barrel was filled on December 31, 1999, that’s why we call it our “Millennium Barrel.” It was the very last barrel that we filled on the last day of the last century.

This is about as rare as whisky gets. And you can be sure they are going to taste great. Come to WhiskyFest San Francisco, try one of these rare treats, and help support a good cause.

Category: Bourbon,Charity,Events,Scotch whisky,WhiskyFest Tags: , , , , , 1 Comment

August 15th, 2009

New Buffalo Trace Antique Collection whiskeys: my thoughts

John Hansell

Yesterday I was at the Buffalo Trace distillery for Elmer T. Lee’s 90th Birthday Party. But, in the afternoon, before the party, I had the chance to taste the new Buffalo Trace Antique Collection.

While tasting the whiskeys, I posted my thoughts up on Twitter. For those of you not following me yet, you should (@JohnHansell), as I often post quick thoughts or breaking news on Twitter, in addition to posting lengthier, more formal information later on WDJK, and I don’t plan on making a practice of posting my tweets here. (You can, however, find my tweets on the right margin of WDJK.)

If you missed it, here’s a copy of my tweets on the new BT Antique Collection. (Please note that these are my general thoughts, and my formal reviews will follow later.)

Just tasted the entire new line of Buffalo trace Antique Collection whiskeys, plus 2 new experimental whiskeys. Informal reviews to follow.

William Larue Weller. A CS wheated bourbon whiskey. My favorite of the new lot. They beefed it up with some older whiskeys. Stunning!

George T. Stagg. A CS ryed bourbon whiskey. My #2 of the lot! They beefed this baby up too! Incredible balance! Another “must buy”!

Thomas H. Handy Rye. Sweet, lush, vibrant, and spicy. Perhaps my third favorite. The Rye equivalent to Cask Strength Laphroaig 10 yr old.

Sazerac Rye 18 yr. rye whiskey. The 2001-2005 vintages were the best. Aged in Stainless since 2006. Still nice, but losing some pizazz.

Eagle Rare 17 yr. Sort of got lost in the mix with these other bullies. Need a separate time to review it fairly. Last two years were great.

Category: Bourbon,Distillery Tours,Events,New Releases,Opinions,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: 11 Comments

August 13th, 2009

I’ll be at Buffalo Trace distillery: Follow me on Twitter

John Hansell

The next two days I’ll be at the Buffalo Trace distillery in Frankfort, KY. The main purpose of my visit is to attend Elmer T. Lee’s (Master Distiller Emeritus) 90th Birthday Party, which is tomorrow (Friday). But there will be some other activities going on too.

Tonight is a dinner at the distillery with fellow writers, including Lew Bryson, Chuck Cowdery, Paul Pacult and Jim Murray. Tomorrow during the day, we’ll be tasting some experimental whiskeys, followed by Elmer’s party later on in the evening.

I might not have enough time blog that much, but I do have Twitter loaded up on my Blackberry. If I discover anything noteworthy to share with you (either informative or humorous), I’ll tweet about it.

How do you follow me on Twitter? It’s easy. You can follow me directly by logging on to twitter to follow me formally (@JohnHansell), or you can just go on to my blog here at WDJK and check my most recent tweets (under “what I’m doing”), which are automatically feed to the right margin below the summary of my recent blog postings.

I’m sure I’ll have a lot to share with you from my trip. And I’ll eventually get it into a blog posting, but you’ll get the info practically real time on Twitter in the interim.

Category: Administrative,Bourbon,Distillery Tours,Events,Rye whiskey Tags: , 4 Comments

August 1st, 2009

Unique WhiskyFest SF Whisky #5: Buffalo Trace

John Hansell

As I mentioned in previous postings, a handful of distillery managers and master blenders have each agreed to make one unique bottle of whisky (bottle #1 of 1) for WhiskyFest San Francisco this October 16th. These whiskies will, naturally, be rarer than any other bottle of whisky the ever produced, because there is only one bottle. For a small donation to charity, you will have the opportunity to taste one of these whiskies.

You can read about our first four whiskies here. This is our first bourbon participating. It’s from Buffalo Trace. Here are the details, as described to me by my friends at the distillery.

Our charity Buffalo Trace bottle contains the very first sample ever drawn from our “Millennium Barrel”. This barrel was filled on December 31, 1999, that’s why we call it our “Millennium Barrel”. It was the very last barrel that we filled on the last day of the last century.

This barrel was aged in our one-of-a-kind single barrel warehouse for nearly 10 years. The single barrel warehouse is a very tight warehouse which tends to age bourbon gracefully, so the flavors are nicely balanced. The bourbon has a traditional bourbon flavor with some nice wood flavors, strong, but not overpowering. Hints of caramel are present and the complexity is well balanced.  As an added bonus, we’ll fill the charity bottle at barrel proof, uncut and unfiltered.

Very cool! Thanks guys!

Category: Bourbon,Charity,Events,WhiskyFest Tags: 6 Comments

July 28th, 2009

Elmer T. Lee is turning 90. Wish him a Happy Birthday!

John Hansell

elmerFor those of you who don’t know, Elmer T. Lee is  Master Distiller Emeritus of the Buffalo Trace Distillery, a true living legend, and man who has his own single barrel bourbon named after him. 

He is turning 90 years old in a couple weeks. There will be a small birthday party for him, and I’m flying down to be there for the party.

I thought it would be nice if I we could let him know how much we appreciate all that he’s done for the bourbon industry and wish him a Happy Birthday too. If you would like to say a few words, please post them below. I’ll bring your well wishes with me and give them to him when I see him.

Maybe you tried his bourbon and enjoyed it? Maybe you appreciate what Buffalo Trace has done over the years (even back when it was called Ancient Age Distillery)? Maybe you met him at a WhiskyFest and enjoyed his company?

Go ahead and say a word or two if you feel inclined. I’ll see that he gets your comments. Thanks!

Category: Bourbon,Events,Opinions,Rye whiskey Tags: , 42 Comments

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