Whisky Advocate Blog

The next round is being released this week. The variables focus on recipe, grain size, and char level. Details below in the press release. You can find my thoughts on the first release here. (Photo below is of Round One.)

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Buffalo Trace Distillery Releases Second Round of

Single Oak Project Bourbon

 Quest for the World’s Perfect Bourbon Continues   

 

FRANKFORT, Franklin County, Ky (August 2, 2011) – Round two of the critically acclaimed Single Oak Project is being released from Buffalo Trace Distillery this week, part of the Distillery’s “Holy Grail” project.

                This release will explore three important variables that affect the taste of bourbon, recipe, grain size, and char level.  Some of the bottles contain bourbon made with rye and others with wheat. The barrels themselves were made from different trees, each with varying degrees of thickness to their wood grain, from fine to very coarse. These barrels were charred at either a number three or number four char level to determine how the burn will alter the taste.  All other variables in the experimental project, such as the entry proof, stave seasoning, tree cut, and warehouse location remain constant.

                As with the first release, Buffalo Trace hopes consumers can rate each whiskey they taste online at www.singleoakproject.com. This feedback will help determine which type of bourbon connoisseurs prefer most. After reviewing a bottle online, consumers will be availed of all the aging details and provenance of the barrel. They can interact with others who’ve also reviewed the barrel, compare their reviews, and even learn for themselves which characteristics they enjoy most, in order to help them select future favorites.  Participants online will earn points after each review and most importantly, help Buffalo Trace Distillery create the perfect bourbon!

                The Single Oak Project is part of an intensive research project Buffalo Trace Distillery started conducting in 1999 by hand picking 96 trees with different wood grains and then dividing them into a top and bottom piece, yielding 192 unique sections. From there, staves were created from each section and were air dried for either 6 months or 12 months. After all the staves were air dried, a single barrel was created from each tree section, resulting in 192 total barrels. These barrels were given either a number three or a number four char and then filled with either wheat or rye recipe bourbon.

                To further the variety of experiments, the barrels were filled at two different proofs, 105 and 125 proof.  And if this wasn’t enough, two completely different warehouses were used, one with wooden ricks and one with concrete floors.  In total, seven different variables were employed in Buffalo Trace’s ultimate experiment.

                For eight years the Distillery continued with its tracking process, creating intricate databases and coming up with a potential of 1,396 tasting combinations from these 192 barrels!

                The Single Oak Project Bourbon will be released in a series every three months over the next four years until all of the 192 barrels have been released. The first release hit select stores at the end of May. This second release should show up in stores towards the end of August. Like the first release, the quantity is very limited. Every case will contain 12 bottles, each from a different barrel. The second release is made up of barrel numbers 29, 31, 61, 63, 93, 95, 125, 127, 157, 159, 189, 191. All releases will be packaged in a 375ml bottle. Suggested retail pricing per bottle is $46.35.   

                At the conclusion of the Single Oak Project, the Distillery plans to take the top rated barrel based on online consumer feedback, make more of that product and launch it under the Single Oak Project nameplate.

I first wrote about it here last week. Have a look if you need to get the background. Today, I’m going to give you the details of the 12-bottle first release and offer some brief thoughts on them.

Here’s a breakdown of each bottle number, along with the variables from each bottling:

3 – Tight Grain, Top Cut, Rye Recipe
4 – Tight, Bottom, Rye
35 – Tight, Top, Wheat
36 – Tight, Bottom, Wheat
67 – Average, Top, Rye
68 – Average, Bottom, Rye
99 – Average, Top, Wheat
100 – Average, Bottom, Wheat
131 – Coarse, Top, Rye
132 – Coarse, Bottom, Rye
163 – Coarse, Top, Wheat
164 – Coarse, Bottom, Wheat

As you will see, the variables are the mash bill (wheat or rye as the “spice” ingredient), which half of the tree the barrel was made from (top or bottom), and the grain size (tight, average, course).

Note that the bottle numbers are grouped in pairs (3-4, 35-36, etc.). The odd numbered bottles are from the top cut of the tree, while the even numbers are from the bottom cut of the tree.

My observations and preferences

First, let me say that my opinions are just one person, and there are other opinions out there that differ from mine. Also, if you want to taste these whiskeys without any opinions bias you, this would be a good time to stop reading this post.

One thing I noticed immediately was that the bottom cut (the even numbers) really show a lot more wood influence (and possibly even terroir).  Generally speaking, I preferred the bourbons that were aged in barrels made from the top part of the trees (the odd numbered bottles). In many instances, the wood from the bottom cut dominates the flavor profile.

I sort of feel the same way with whiskeys aged in barrels made from wood with the course grain size (131, 132, 163, 164). There’s a lot of wood influence there. The course grain particularly dominates the more delicate (and vulnerable?) wheat-spiced whiskeys (163, 164). In fact, 163 and 164 were my least favorite of the twelve. Generally speaking, bourbon made from barrels with average grain size seemed to be the sweet spot.

On the flip side, the wheated whiskeys with “top” wood and both tight and average grain (35 and 99, respectively) were quite nice. They were (respectively) my 2nd and 3rd favorite whiskeys. If you like wheated bourbons, you might consider one of these.

My favorite of the bunch: #67: a rye bourbon with average grain size wood taken from the top of a tree. I felt it was elegant, refined, and sophisticated. I could drink this stuff all day long.

So, trying to summarize what I liked most: whiskeys aged in barrels made from the top parts of the tree with an average grain size for the rye bourbon (#67) and a tight grain for the wheated bourbon (#35), because it’s a more delicate style of whiskey.

Has anyone else tried any of these yet? If so, your thoughts?