I’ve been tasting a lot of whiskies lately. Formal reviews will follow for most of them. But, in the interim, so you can get a jump on your autumn whisky-buying, I’ll let you know my informal thoughts now.

I was able to taste the new Bruichladdich 10 year old at WhiskyFest. (It’s not in the U.S. yet, but the importer brought me a sample.) As you may know, this is the first 10 year old whisky being sold that was produced by the current owners. It’s a new dawn for Bruichladdich, and I am happy to say that this whisky is very good. Most of it is from bourbon barrels, but there’s some sherry casks thrown in too. I just hope they can keep this profile consistant going forward. If they do, it could become the go-to entry level non-smoky Island whisky (competing with Highland Park 12 year old and Bunnahabhain 12 year old  for that honor). To me, it tastes like a 12 year old whisky.

Another whisky that surprised me was the Kilkerran WIP (Work In Progress) 3rd release. If memory serves me correctly, it’s 7 years old and tasted surprisingly fresh and also nicely mature for its age.

Dr. Bill Lumsden, after his Ardbeg seminar, let me sample a 1975 Ardbeg from a sample bottle (Cask #4714) from a refill sherry cask which I thought was outstanding! My favorite whisky of the night. He said they’ve been using so much from this cask at whisky shows, they won’t have much left when it is bottled. But let me put it this way: when it’s bottled, I am buying a bottle (if it doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg).

I tried some of the Samaroli releases. This independent bottler is new to the U.S. I tasted a 1967 Tomintoul and a 34 year old Glenlivet which were delicious. (The Glenlivet was not identified as such–it had a false name which I didn’t write down. I’ll try to dig that one up and let you know what it was called.). I’m not sure what the prices and availability of these whiskies will be at this time. Details to follow.

I have a bottle of the Shackleton whisky, which I have really been enjoying over the past couple of weeks. Very distinctive for a blend, and with plenty of character. Dominic Roskrow rated it in the lown 90s for us, and I would probably have given it at least a 90 myself if I formally reviewed it.

Another new blended scotch I really like for its drinkability and versatility is Compass Box’s Great King Street. It’s not going to set your world on fire, but it was never intended to do so. That’s what whiskies like Peat Monster are for. Whiskymaker John Glaser continues to impress me.

For the bourbon enthusiasts out there, I’ve been through the new Buffalo Trace Antique Collection a few times already. It’s just hitting the shelves now. The entire line is stellar–as it was last year, and they taste very similar to last year’s release. So, if you liked last year’s offering, you can be confident that you will like this year’s releases if you have a chance to buy them. (They are always hard to come by.)

Heaven Hill has two really nice whiskeys that just came out. This year’s Parker’s Heritage Collection is a 10 year old, 100 proof bourbon finished in Cognac barrels (similar to the old Beam Distillers’ Masterpiece bottling). The cognac doesn’t dominate, adds intrigue, and this whisky is dangerously drinkable for 100 proof. But, if you are a purist (dare I say stubborn?), and don’t want people meddling with your bourbon, you might think differently about this offering.

The second whiskey from Heaven Hill is a Elijah Craig 20 year old single cask bottling (Cask #3735). The good news: I love this whiskey, and will be rating it in the mid 90s. The bad news: it’s only available at Heaven Hill’s Bourbon Heritage Center in Bardstown, KY, and it will set you back $150.

Finally, for those of you who are budget-minded, I tasted my way through the Pappy Van Winkle line of bourbons (12, 15, 20 and 23 year old). My favorite? The 15 year old. Save your money and get this one!

Ardbeg Alligator, 51.2%, $95

Similar to standard Ardbeg 10 year old, except that a portion of the whisky was aged in heavily charred barrels (referred to as an “Alligator” char). An aggressive whisky—even for Ardbeg—with a leathery texture throughout. Dynamic too, with coal tar soot, bourbon barrel char, espresso, cocoa, licorice root, smoked fish, and hint of ginger. There’s a nice creamy vanilla underbelly to balance the aggressiveness and (at least partially) muzzle the Alligator. — John Hansell

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

I always enjoy my time with Bill. The icing on the cake is that he usually has a few samples of something fun in his bag. This time it was samples of Glenmorangie Pride, Ardbeg Alligator, and a third sample with the secret code name “Son of Alligator.”

That should have your attention–especially for all of you Ardbeg enthusiasts. I’ll get to Ardbeg soon enough, but let’s chat about Glenmorangie Pride first.

Glenmorangie Pride

Glenmorangie Pride is the newest creation by the Glenmo team. There were a lot of great whiskies that came from the 1981 Vintage (including the first Distillery Manager’s bottling that was available only at the distillery which was outstanding!), so this particular whisky has a fine pedigree. After aging for 18 years in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, It was finished in Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes casks for 10 years before being bottled.

For many of you, reading about this whisky is merely academic. With only 1,000 bottles produced, only 100 available here in the U.S., and retailing for approximately $3,600 a bottle, most of you will not be rushing out to your specialty retailer to order a bottle. (And, to be perfectly honest, neither will I.) But, I was fortunate enough to receive a review sample of it over a week ago, and also had the opportunity to try it yesterday with Bill.

(For those of you interested in my thoughts on Pride, read on. For those of you who are mumbling under your breath that you don’t care what a $3,600 bottle of whisky tastes like, you can continue on to my Ardbeg write-up below.)

The bottom line: Pride is a very good whisky (probably low 90s) and I don’t think anyone who purchases a bottle will be disappointed. Is it my favorite Glenmo? No. And I’ll explain why. (My favorite Glenmorangie whisky on the market is probably Astar, in case you were wondering.)

The two key influences in this whisky are: Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes wine and the French Oak casks the wine (and eventually the Glenmorangie) was aged in. The lovely sweet wine notes really impact the palate, especially up front, with sweet, lush, fruity notes (lemon custard, sultana, honeydew). Gradually, the resinous French Oak influence reveals itself, balancing the sweetness with a barrage of spice, tannin, and a gripping resinous finish.

This is a very textural whisky. It’s dynamic and always evolving. That’s what I like about it. The last thing this whisky will ever be is boring.

If I were being picky (I get paid to be picky, so I will), I would like to see Pride with a little less wood influence (especially on the finish). I completely understand why he bottled the whisky at 28 years and 9 months, rather than waiting until it was 30 years old to do so (which might have made the marketing department happy, but the whisky probably would have suffered for it).  That being said, I can only wonder how amazing this whisky could have been if it were bottled, say, after only  25 years? I would be willing to sacrifice some of the lovely sweet Sauternes influence for a whisky that might have achieved even greater balance, integration, and complexity with less wood impact.

Ardbeg Alligator (and the “Son of Alligator”)

Welcome to what is now becoming an annual occurrence: a new Ardbeg release. Last year it was Rollercoaster. This year, it’s Ardbeg Alligator. Why the name Alligator? Well, a portion of the whisky was aged in heavily charred barrels (that Bill refers to as an “Alligator” char).

As he describes it: “It’s similar to Ardbeg 10 year old, but with bells and whistles.” (I was waiting for him to say it’s  like the 10 year old, but a bit more hard-skinned and with a bite. )

The age of the whisky is also very similar to Ardbeg 10. It’s a combination of some “regular” Ardbeg with some of the Alligator char-aged Ardbeg which was then aged an additional year in refill casks to marry and integrate. (I promised Bill I wouldn’t go into any more detail than this, so please don’t ask.)

My thoughts?: It’s an aggressive Ardbeg (and will be bottled at 51.7%) with a good dose of smoked fish in the flavor profile. The nice thing about it is that there’s a good creamy vanilla underbelly to balance the aggressiveness and (at least partially) muzzle the Alligator. Alligator should be available here in the U.S. in June as an “Ardbeg Committee” release.

The third sample Bill pulled out, which he calls the “Son of Alligator,” was much different that Alligator. Bill hinted that this might be next year’s Limited-edition Ardbeg release. it was softer, creamier, and fruitier than Alligator, with a good does of creamy vanilla, custard, and stone fruits (peach, apricot, perhaps even nextarine.)

Would any of you (who are still reading this long post) like to wager why the good doctor is calling it “Son of Alligator?” Is Bill using the emptied alligator-char casks an additional time? I honestly don’t know. I’m just guessing. What’s your guess?

I asked you what questions you would like me to ask Bill.  Here they are, with his answers.

Rumor has it there are no old stocks of Ardbeg. True?

Untrue. We have a limited amount. That’s why we stopped bottling Lord of the Isles. But we still have some. Watch this space.

Is Glenmorangie PLC going to buy a craft distiller in the U.S. like some other Scottish whisky companies are doing?

It’s very unlikely. If anything, there will be more focus on the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which the company owns.

Which closed/mothballed distillery would you like to see active again?

Rosebank. It has always been a personal favorite, and I have several bottles saved for future enjoyment.

What made Ardbeg and Glenmorangie decide now to certify bottlings as Kosher? Any plans of new certified releases in the future?

We realized that a lot of Jewish drinkers were not drinking our products becuase they didn’t know if they could. We certified Glenmorangie Original (10 year old), Glenmorangie Astar and Ardbeg 10 year old for this reason.

Any new special bottlings like Rollercoaster for 2011?

Yes, there will be new bottlings. John, when time gets closer, you will an exclusive peak. I’ll just say this for now. In 2011, we’ll release a wacky new Ardbeg. In  2012, we plan on releasing an old-fashioned, traditional Ardbeg.

We’ll also have a lovely old new Glenmorangie, perhaps around Christmas time. Look for a new release that I am calling the “grandson of Sonnalta” in the Private Edition series. Plus, you know how you and I have discussed how much we like Sassicaia wine from Tuscany? Well…there’s a clue to something new in the future.

Will Supernova become a standard release in the Ardbeg range?

That’s less clear cut.

Are you selling any casks to independent bottlers?

Only our Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottlings.

An plans on doing your own floor maltings again?

I have had the same dreams (he said with a twinkle in his eye). If that ever were to happen, we probably would bottle the whisky made from our floor maltings exclusively, and not blend it in with whisky from malt that we have brought in, like the way Laphroaig does it.

Would you ever identify on the bottle when you use caramel coloring?

We do it when it is required. We are not trying to hide the fact that we use it, and we are trying to minimize it’s use. We only use it for “standardization” (to keep the color of a given whisky consistent). I would like to see it (caramel coloring) banned!

Can you give me in a sentence or two the house character of Glenmorangie?

It has a softness and silkiness on the palate, a sweet taste, and great finesse and complexity.

Will there be an Ardbeg 17 year old anytime soon?

Not anytime soon?

What’s the age of Glenmorangie Cellar 13?

It was a 10 year old. If you like this whisky, then you should try Astar, its spiritual successor.

Is your company going to be bought by Diageo?

This is very topical. I don’t know. It’s pointless worrying about it.

Will there be a Glenmorangie Signet-like Ardbeg anytime soon (i.e., using caramel and/or chocolate malt, etc.)

No, but we are always experimenting.

Thank you Bill!

I realize that this is last minute, but…do you have any questions you would like me to ask him?  I’ll do my best to get the answers.

Ardbeg Supernova (2010 Release), 60.1%, $130
Very dynamic, complex and powerful. Here’s what I’m picking up, in somewhat descending order in taste profile: leafy smoke, coal tar, mocha fudge with dark chocolate chips, smoked olive, peppered seaweed salad, fruit (lemon, lime), genever, brine-tinged grass, and  (with some coaxing) floral notes (violet?). Compared to last year’s debut release of Supernova (the whisky with the lighter-colored label in the picture), this new one is certainly comparable, but I feel it’s a tad richer, with more leafy smoke and ripe barley. It also seems a bit more polished, less aggressive. I like it a little more than its predecessor (which I rated an 89).

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Something to look forward to. Stay tuned!

This one is being described as “deeper and earthier” with a “rocketed” strength of 60.1% ABV.

More details here.

Of particular note is the Ardbeg 10th Anniversary event, the day after WhiskyFest. Sadly, I have to fly back home Saturday for some personal business, but you can still go. You’ll find more info, along with sign-up information, here.

Hopefully, I’ll see you in Chicago.

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For those of you never to have toured a distillery it can be an eye-opening experience – these can run from basic tours of an hour or so to those that can extend for half a day.  Many distilleries are set up for tours and you can easily arrange one, we’d recommend calling the number that most have posted on their website.  Many charge a small fee which can be recouped if you buy whisky in their gift shop.  Some will provide levels of tours based on a range of fees charged for the event, ask if you’d like to see something a bit more behind the scenes or participate in a cask sampling! Standard tours typically include a tasting of at least one whisky at the end of the tour; many provide whisky for sale available exclusively at the distillery. 

All tours include the basics: barley mill, mash tun room, washbacks, and the still room.  Most will include visits to a bonded warehouse.  Many will allow pictures throughout the tour. Others, particularly those owned by Diageo, will not allow any pictures.   What we want to provide you is a range some of our experiences over the last two weeks and hope you will join in with questions and comments.  I have asked all of those who have toured with us to join in as well to add their own perspective. One caveat I would point out here.  For some of us this is our fourth or fifth tour beginning in 1998, so we have grown to become very close friends with many of the distillery managers and others working on both the marketing and production side of the industry.  For that reason we may have be allowed to experience some things that others might not, but we still want to give you a flavor of what we have learned on our latest journey. Why did we tour in March, you might ask? It’s less expensive in terms of transportation and lodging, and we tend to get a bit more attention before the busy tourist season begins. As many of you know, lots of distillery managers and ambassadors travel to various events like Whiskyfest, and they are easier to catch on their home turf before April or after September.

The Islands – Part I  (Islay)

We visited both Islay and Orkney – Today we want to focus on Islay to give you a taste of what you can expect if you visit the distilleries there.  Islay is a wonderful place to visit, the distillery experiences can be exceptional. Allow yourself a few days on Islay, the ferry ride is over two hours, after landing and driving to the west coast.

We didn’t visit any of the Diageo distilleries (Lagavulin, Caol Isla), they do not do tours on Saturday until after Easter, and believe me we tried!  Lagavulin is set up for tours and has a gift shop and gives a nice standard tour but Diageo distilleries are pretty cookie cutter in approach.  Bowmore (bottom left) and Laphroaig both have floor maltings and are great fun to see in action. You learn about how the process used to work and if you are lucky, they let you turn a few shovels of the malt!  Only a handful of distilleries have floor maltings and if you decide to go to visit a distillery it is something you absolutely should see.   Bowmore have bottles only available at the shop that range from 80 to 100 pounds and we picked up several Festival and Manager bottlings.  Bruichladdich (top two photos are of Jim McEwan from Bruichladdich) allows you to bottle your own whisky on site (this is also true at Pulteney and Aberlour).  It is a lot of fun, and if the manager is there he will sign it for you.

We missed our window to tour Kilchoman, but the farm and gift shop are very nice. The whisky is great too, it’s fun to see a small distillery get a successful start in this market. Ardbeg, as always was fantastic. We toured with Distillery Manager Mickey Heads, over from a stint a Jura and quite into his own. He’s been at the helm through the release of some very successful whiskies, and was more than happy to show us through the growing archive and chat about their bright future.

Laphroaig, as many of you know, asks that you become a Friend of Laphroaig, and with that honor you are given a dram of 10 Year Old Cask Strength as “rent,” and a plot of land at the distillery you can visit!   As John Hansell noted recently, John MacLellan is leaving Bunnahbhain for Kilchoman which is a real loss for Burns-Stewart.  John often gave tours of the distillery himself.  Bunnahabhain (second from bottom) was shut down for long stretches last year, and I think the challenge of going to a new small distillery was attractive to John.  Until John’s resignation all the distilleries on Islay were operated by men from Islay.  Lets hope that continues! — B. J. Reed

I tasted the whisky first on Super Bowl Sunday, and offered my preliminary thoughts here (@12). My opinion has not changed. My formal review follows.

89 Ardbeg “Rollercoaster,” 57.3%, $ 85.00
Deep gold color. Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit. More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock and cough drops emerging towards the finish. This whisky is very dynamic and exciting to drink. My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s. Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies are. And if you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, then this one’s for you.

You will not be happy with the prices of some of these whiskies, but here’s our ten best new whiskies released in 2009 (keeping in mind that whiskies must have been for sale in the U.S. in the 2009 calendar year to be eligible).

The selection process for this list is based primarily on the whisky’s rating. All ten whiskies rated 95 or higher in Malt Advocate  magazine.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85
Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. There are many relatively young whiskies with no age statement on the market. This is a benchmark. Quite stunning!

Brora 30 year old (2009 Release), 53.2%, $400
This whisky shows all the good aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the bad ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional). It’s very clean and polished. One of the best releases from this shuttered distillery.

Dalmore 50 year old, $1,500/100ml
Incredibly viscous and chewy, and thick on the tongue. Very complex too, with that classic Dalmore marmalade note as its foundation. The flavors evolve like waves lapping on a beach. It is a whisky you can’t drink slowly enough.

Gold Bowmore, 1964 Vintage, 42.4% $6,250
Surprisingly lively for its age. I like this whisky better than White Bowmore but feels that it falls short of Black Bowmore, because it’s a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate. (But, for most of you with limited means, I can understand if you don’t really care.)

Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, 46% (2009 vintage), $250
I love the pot still character and the lushness that some of the port-wood aging has imparted. If anything,  this 2009 vintage is even richer and lusher than the previous 2007 vintage I reviewed. Another classic Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve.

Laphroaig 25 year old, 51.2%, $500
I love the way the flavors of this whisky evolve on the palate. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve (Bottle B1986), 23 year old, 47.8%, $220
My review of this whiskey a few years back indicated this whiskey was too woody and past it’s prime to be a stellar whiskey. This one is much better. (Yes, whiskey bottlings do change over time.) There’s great balance and the oak is in check.

Parkers Heritage Selection Golden Anniversary, 50%, $150
This is a fabulous whiskey: seamless, incredibly complex, with an impeccable marriage of youth and maturity. It’s also very even-keeled throughout. A classic bourbon that’s very complex and yet very drinkable.

Rittenhouse Rye 25 year old (Barrel #1), 50%, $190
Not as vibrant as the 21 year old Rittenhouse Rye released a few years back, but it’s more sophisticated, which more than makes up for it. I can’t speak for the other barrels in this lot, but I think this one is a great example of what a 20-plus year old rye whisky should taste like.

William Larue Weller (2009 release), 67.4%, $65
This whiskey has improved greatly over the past two years. (I thought that the 2007 release was almost too easy-going, as some wheated bourbon can be.) A little more oak spice has added balance, complexity and depth. Very clean on the palate too. Excellent!

I have a bottle, and the booklet that came along with it. If you follow the thread on my first Rollercoaster post, you can find all the details on this bottling. But if you have any other questions, I will try to answer them.

And yes, I hope to open up this baby sometime this evening during the Super Bowl game. If I do, I don’t think it will matter which team wins.

Update: I offer my preliminary thoughts on Rollercoaster in comment #12 below.

Scotch Whisky: Single Malt of the Year

Ardbeg Corryvreckan, 57.1%, $85

Dr. Bill Lumsden is a brilliant innovator, and he’s the creative mind behind the new Glenmorangie and Ardbeg releases. This new Ardbeg Corryvreckan replaces Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist. (Bill, how about a whisky name that most of us can actually pronounce?)

As you can imagine, the “short list” for this award category was actually quite long, because there are so many great single malts on the market. One of deciding factors for picking “Corry” is that it is part of the new trend in malt whisky (younger whiskies, not chill-filtered, with interesting names instead of age statements). And while there are many whiskies that fit this category (and will be many more over the next several years), Corry is an example of the proper way to do it. It is a relatively young, invigorating, complex, and meticulously cared for whisky.

It’s also powerful, muscular, and well-textured. (I think part of this texturing is that some of the whisky was aged in French oak casks, rather than American or Spanish oak.) Even within the realm of Ardbeg, Corry stands out. The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish. Quite stunning!

Tomorrow’s Malt Advocate Whisky Awards announcement: Pioneer of the Year.

Stay tuned…