January 3rd, 2012

Another whisky, and another story.

John Hansell

Some of you might remember my post here back in 2011. Well, I took my own advice and opened another bottle of whisky last week. It wasn’t for Christmas or New Years Eve, but rather somewhere in the middle of the week. I’m really glad I did, because it tastes great! And, as it is with many of my whiskies, there’s a story to this one too.

It was back in the early 1990s. I don’t remember which year, because I was traveling to Scotland quite a bit. I was in Edinburgh and paid my usual visit to the Cadenhead’s shop on the Royal Mile to see what Springbank whiskies they had for sale.

When I asked about Springbank 15 year old, Neil Clapperton, the gentleman who ran the shop, said that they were out of stock. But, by this time, he knew me because I had been in the shop several times before. That’s when he told me that he did have one bottle of Springbank 15 year old, but the proof is wrong on it. Instead of the usual 46% for Springbank, he said that this one was 50%. He then took out a marker and blacked out the 46% on the label and hand-wrote 50% next to it. (If you look closely at the over-exposed label, you might be able to see it on the lower right.) He said that if I was okay with it and wanted to buy it, he would sell it to me for the usual price.

100 proof Springbank 15 year old? Was I okay with it? Does a bear shit in the woods??

I happily purchased the bottle, along with some other cool Springbanks and Cadenhead’s whiskies, and held onto it for quite some time. It was worth the wait. It’s outstanding–a stunningly complex Springbank in a ex-bourbon casks. Nothing fancy. If you ever get a chance to taste Springbank that was distilled prior to their 1980s silent period, do it! If you think the current bottlings of Springbank are splendid (and many of the are), you just might be blown away with one of these earlier bottlings.

The only thing that frustrates me right now: Neil told me why this one was bottled at 50% ABV when I bought it from him and, after all these years, I forgot what he said!

Oh well. The whisky is great. That’s what matters most. And I’m drinking and sharing it with like-minded friends.

I’m not sure if you are a “New Year’s resolution” kind of person or not. But if you are, make a resolution to open up a bottle or two (or more) of your special whiskies that you’ve been saving for a special occasion. The whisky itself is reason enough to celebrate.

Category: Holidays,Opinions,Ramblings,Scotch whisky,Whisky collections Tags: , 21 Comments

December 22nd, 2011

The whisky I plan to open, and the story that goes with it.

John Hansell

Every Christmas Eve, before I got to bed, I open up a special bottle of whisky and enjoy a dram of it. Regardless of which whisky I chose to open, there’s a story that goes with it. That’s one of the reasons why it’s special. I make sure that I drink the bottle before the next Christmas Eve, when I open another special bottle.

I have an emotional attachment to whisky, and I make no apology for it. Whisky isn’t just about the flavor or rarity. There’s more to it than this. It’s one of the reasons why I don’t always open a whisky that I buy right away. Instead, I’ll wait for a special occasion.

Maybe that’s why I have over 300 unopened bottles of whisky, with a room in my house set aside just for them. With all this discussion lately about whisky collecting and whether it’s a good or bad thing to do, the reality is that it’s just not that simple. Like many things in life, it isn’t black or white, but rather some shade of gray.

I don’t think of myself as a collector. I refer to what I have as an accumulation rather than a collection. And I fully intend to drink, share, and savor every bottle I have before I die.

Take this bottle, for example. It’s the whisky I am currently planning to open this Christmas Eve. It’s a Glenmorangie Distillery Manager’s Choice.  I’ve had it for 13 years. Every time I look at this bottle or hold it, it it brings back a very fond memory.

This whisky was bottled in 1998, but the story actually begins a year or so before this. My wife and I were visiting distilleries in the Scottish Highlands. We made an impromptu stop at the Glenmorangie Distillery on our way back from visiting other distilleries farther to the north. We went to the distillery office and asked if Bill Lumsden, then Distillery Manager (and friend), happened to be in. Well, he must have heard my voice from his office, because he came running out and gave Amy and me a big hug. Then, without skipping a beat, he said: “There’s something you have to taste!”

Bill grabbed some keys and we ran through the pouring rain to one of the Distillery’s warehouses. Inside, in the dark, damp, chilly warehouse filled with with heavenly whisky aromas, he took me to one particular cask. He pulled the bung out, stuck a whisky thief into the barrel, and poured me a sample of what was inside.

I nosed the whisky and then took a sip, nosed it again and took another sip. Bill then asked, “what do you think?”

I told him I thought that it was the best Glenmorangie whisky I ever tasted.

“I agree, John,” he said,  ”and it would be a shame for this one barrel to be blended in with some other Glenmorangie casks. I’d like to bottle this on its own, cask-strength and not chill-filtered, but I just have to figure out how to do it.” I said to Bill if he ever does bottle it, save a bottle for me. He said he would.

Shortly thereafter, the Glenmorangie “Distillery Manager’s Choice” was born, and this was the cask: distilled in 1981, aged in an ex-bourbon cask, bottled in 1998 at 54.5%, and sold at the distillery. Bill kept to his promise, saved me a bottle, and I’ve waited for the right moment to open it–this Christmas eve.

Thank you, Bill. And a big thanks to all of you who take time out of your busy schedule to stop by and read whatever happens to be on my mind at the moment. I wish you all the best in the New Year and hope it is filled with many memorable whiskies.

How about you? Are you opening anything special this holiday season?

 

Category: Opinions,Ramblings,Scotch whisky,Whisky collections Tags: 103 Comments

December 14th, 2011

Whisky as an investment: are we in a bubble?

John Hansell

The cover story for the new issue of Whisky Advocate (pictured below) is on whisky auctions and whisky collecting. We like to show both sides of a story. Ian Buxton has a feature in this issue that takes a more contrarian approach to auctions and collecting, discussing a whisky’s “soul.” Below, in this guest blog post, he goes into even more detail.

Read what he has to say below. Do you agree with him? Disagree with him? And why?

 

WHISKY  ‘INVESTMENT’

By Ian Buxton

Can one invest in whisky?  And, if yes, should you?

There’s certainly a lot of excited chatter about this right now, perhaps a measure of the troubled economic times in which we live.  The idea seems to be creeping into the popular imagination that picking the right bottle is a worthwhile, not to say near essential part of your financial planning.

We can argue about the figures.  Elsewhere I’ve taken exception to sloppy journalism and the casual quotation of potential investment gains that ignore transaction costs – and can thus never be achieved in real life.  Call me old-fashioned but I believe readers should be able to trust what they read and citing illusory and unattainable rates of return is misleading at best.

What’s more, simple common sense suggests that returns of over 100% in just two or three years are never going to be sustained in anything but a feverish bubble. When you appreciate that those figures are being most enthusiastically trumpeted by people with a vested interest, such as distillers with a brand to promote, retailers with stock to move or auction houses keen to drum up business you might just want to look twice before committing your 401(k) pot.

But there’s a more fundamental philosophical point that the money men, with their hard, cold souls don’t seem to get: if the whisky you buy is just for investment, then – since it’s never going to be opened – the bottle may as well contain cold tea.  Today whisky; tomorrow pork belly futures.

Whisky is a drink, but it is more than that.  It is a metaphor for the spirit and soul of the people and place that produced it. The distillers of Scotland express part of the austere, Calvinist personality of their land; in Kentucky (as for Rabbie Burns) “freedom and whisky gang  the’gither” and for the brave new distillers in Brittany, France it encapsulates their Breton identity and culture, even their language.

Buying and hoarding bottles like some latter-day Ebenezer Scrooge while poring over spreadsheets to measure RoI and capital growth tears out whisky’s heart and spirit; confounds its generosity and desecrates the memory, skill and craftsmanship of the people who made it. And, call me a romantic, but that’s just wrong.

If you love whisky, set it free.  Mark my words: this ‘investment’ bubble will end badly and people – and whisky – are going to get hurt.

Category: Auctions,Guest Blogger,Opinions,Whisky Advocate Magazine,Whisky collections 80 Comments

December 1st, 2011

Bonhams New York City whisky auction slated for December 8th

John Hansell

One week from today, Bonhams will once again host a whisky auction here in New York. Those of you who are looking for that special whisky might have a chance to procure it in time for the holidays.

Looking at the catalog (which you can peruse here), I see some great whiskies being auctioned again, like this 1979 vintage release of The Macallan Gran Reserva (pictured on right).

This time, in addition to single malt scotch, there’s a greater emphasis on whiskies from other countries, including bourbon, Irish, Japanese, and Canadian whisky. For example, bourbon enthusiasts will drool at the 9-bottle case of Very Old Fitzgerald 8 year old bourbon distilled in 1948 at the defunct Stitzel-Weller distillery (pictured below).

I realize that many of you don’t have the means to buy some of these rare whiskies. For those of you who do, this is a great opportunity to perhaps procure that special whisky you’ve been looking for. And, to be honest, there are many lots of grouped “regular priced” whiskies that, depending on the bidding, might proved to be a bargain–even with the fees that are tacked on.

Regardless, it’s worth a look at the catalog, even if it’s only a stroll down memory lane for you.

Category: Auctions,Bourbon,Canadian whisky,Irish whiskey,Japanese whisky,Scotch whisky,Special events,Whisky collections 14 Comments

September 28th, 2011

Do you participate in whisky auctions?

John Hansell

If so, we would like to hear from you for an upcoming story we are considering. We’re interested in both buyers and sellers. If you’ve done both, that’s a plus. And if you’ve participated in one of the New York auctions, it’s also a plus. Please email our Managing Editor, Lew Bryson (lew@lewbryson.com) if you would like to participate and possibly be interviewed.

The nice thing about whisky auctions is that they provide a platform for buyers and sellers to legally conduct business. It’s a chance to finally get that bottle of whisky you’ve always been looking for. It also provides an opportunity for whisky enthusiasts, who are struggling in this terrible economy, to sell some extra bottles they have to help make ends meet.

So, let me throw it out to all of you.  Have you bought or sold at a whisky auction? If so, which auction? Were you happy with the results? Why or why not?

Category: Auctions,Whisky collections 40 Comments

June 17th, 2010

What whisky inventory software are you using?

John Hansell

Okay. Where were we before the “big announcement?” Let’s get the ball rolling again.

I received this email a few days ago from a WDJK reader and thought I would throw it out to all of you to comment on:

Dear John,

I was wondering if you or others in your community of drink pros or blog & magazine readers might be able to help me with something. There are lots of excellent software programs for managing wine collections, but I haven’t been able to find anything comparable for whisky or other distillates. There seem to be a few basic, homemade programs out there but nothing approaching the sophistication of commercial wine-cellar software. Are you aware of any programs that you’d be willing to recommend, or would you be willing to ask your friends or What Does John Know readers.

I’ll be honest. I started an Excel spreadsheet many years ago and still use it to this day. It just contains the basic information: name, age, vintage, ABV, quantity, if it is open or not, and a place for general comments.

My wine inventory (also on Excel) is actually more detailed, because it also contains purchase price, ratings (e.g. Wine Spectator), and recommended drinking time-frames.

How about you? Are you using any software to manage your whisky inventory that you really like and want to tell us about?

 

Category: Opinions,Whisky collections,Whisky software 42 Comments

March 2nd, 2010

Question: Did you get “the look” yet?

John Hansell

How many of you have ever gotten “the look” from your spouse or significant other because of the amount of whiskies you purchased? And for those of you who have gotten the look, when was it and how many bottles did you have?

I have to go back a couple of decades, but I think it was around 1993 for me. And about 30 bottles. Little did my wife know at the time…

Category: Humor,Opinions,Whisky collections 68 Comments

January 17th, 2010

What’s your oldest bottle?

John Hansell

I’m referring to year of distillation, not necessarily age.

My oldest bottle was a pre-prohibition bottle of Old Taylor bourbon. I shared that bottle during one of my whiskey tastings. I also had a 1940 Gordon & MacPhail Glenlivet, which I also shared during one of my tastings.

I think the oldest one I still have is a 50 year old Dalmore which I purchased about 10 years ago during a charity auction. It was bottled in the 1970s, which would put the distillation back in the 1920s, or earlier.(Picture on left.)

How about you?

Category: Opinions,Whisky collections 65 Comments

January 12th, 2010

How many whiskies I have. And why.

John Hansell

I promised in my post yesterday that, if I got 150 people to confess how many whiskies they have, I would do the same. In actuality, we’re already over 200. So, here goes.

For those of you who are only interested in the numbers and don’t care about the “why” part, here they are:

Single malt scotch: 834
Straight whiskey (bourbon, rye, wheat): 286
Irish whiskey: 99
Blended scotch, blended malts, grain whisky: 46
Canadian whisky: 33
Japanese whisky: 15
Miscellaneous artisan (e.g. micro) distillery whisky: 13

I have too many whisky samples (50 ml-200ml) to count and track (hundreds), so I am excluding them here.

If my math is correct, that’s 1,326 bottles. 466 of these bottles are open. Regarding the ones that are open, all the bottles are at least 1/4-1/3 full. I have a policy that, when my bottle gets down to that level, I either give it away to someone who’s going to drink it or I invite friends over and we drink the bottle together.

I am an equal-opportunity drinker. I also love wine (168 bottles kept in a wine cellar), drink more beer than anything (have two beers on tap and over a hundred bottles in a beer cellar–a lot of Belgian and Belgian-style), and have dozens of bottles of rum, tequila, cognac and Armagnac.

Now, I’d like to address the “why” part of my whisky inventory.

First, let me say that, in all honesty, I would rather not have this many bottles of whisky. When I tell you how many bottles I have, I am not bragging. I’m actually quite embarrassed by it. (Kids, don’t try this at home. :) ). If it weren’t for my job, I would have only a fraction of these whiskies.

How does one accumulate this many whiskies? (It really is more of an accumulation rather than a collection. I don’t believe in collections. Whisky is for drinking.) Well, it all started innocently enough, just like most of you. Except I got a head start.

When I first got turned on to single malts back in the late 1980s and early 1990s, whisky tastings and whisky festivals didn’t exist. And the restaurants around where I live didn’t have much to offer. So, when I traveled on business (as a scientist at the time) I would go to specialty whisky shops and just buy the whiskies (with MJ’s Complete Guide To Single Malt Scotch in my hand), hoping that I would like them. Fortunately, the prices at that time were not as bad a they are now. (And I was also fortunate that sometimes I had people like Joe C. at Sam’s Wines & Spirits at the time who let me sample whiskies at his shop.)

I wanted to try as many whiskies as possible, so I bought as many as I could afford (without upsetting the wife too much ). Three bottles led to 30 bottles, and that’s when I started getting the “hairy eye ball” from my wife and that’s the first time I ever heard her utter the phrase “OCD” to me. :) ) . Parlaying my passion into a legitimate business is the only thing that allowed me to justify buying more whiskies. It was for research…

It was–and still is–my intention to have zero bottles of whisky left when I die.  (I will need some help from friends, of course.) You see, one day, about ten years ago, I sat down and did the math. At the rate that I was drinking whisky, there was no way that I was going to finish my stash of whisky even if I lived beyond 80 years old. (I didn’t want to be one of those people who die with a large stash of whisky that shows up at some auction somewhere.) And that’s the day I practically stopped buying whisky. I can count on two hands how many bottles of whisky I have purchased in the past decade. I only buy one or two bottles a year. They are usually whiskies that I like that I can’t get here in the U.S. (For 2009, I bought two bottles of whisky.)

My job actually puts a “double whammy” on the amount of whisky I currently have and continue to accumulate. First, I get review samples. Realize, that I get samples of most every whisky that comes into the U.S. (much more than I actually review formally) in addition to whiskies that aren’t imported here. Second, by the time I am done tasting and reviewing whisky, usually the last thing I want is another whisky. (Thus, the reason why I have all the other booze to drink–especially beer.) So, as long as I am doing what I do for a living, I will be accumulating whisky.

Still, I do try to do my best to keep the whiskies to a manageable level. For the whiskies I don’t need–or no longer need–professionally, I use them at the whisky tastings I host. (Like the one I have in Philly the first week of March.) I also donate bottles to many charity events. And, I promise you that all of my local friends never go thirsty for whisky. :)

So, without going into the specifics of which whiskies I have, which ones mean the most to me, etc. (I’ll save that for a different post), I hope this gives you a general idea of what I have. And why.

Category: Opinions,Whisky collections 71 Comments



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