September 16th, 2011

Review: Amrut Portonova

John Hansell

Amrut Portonova, 61.2%, $125

This release is a port version of Amrut’s Intermediate Sherry — a sort of port pipe sandwich. The spirit is matured in both unused casks and bourbon casks, then spends a few months in port pipes, and then returns to bourbon casks. The result is a Pink Floyd show of a whisky: vibrant, colorful, complex, and nearly too much. A blackcurrant and wispy, smoky nose gives way to an intense and bittersweet mix of chili, blackcurrant, oak, damson, dark chocolate, and peat. Astounding. —Dominic Roskrow

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

Category: Indian whisky,New Releases,Reviews,Writers Tags: 20 Comments

September 15th, 2011

Review: Hazelburn 12 year old

John Hansell

Hazelburn 12 year old, 46%, $80

Following on from the earlier 8 year old expression of this triple distilled Campbeltown malt, the 12 year old first appeared in August 2009 and nicely illustrates the developments brought about by its continuing maturation. Rich on the nose, with a clear sherry influence, along with toffee, marzipan, apricots, and milk chocolate. This is a substantial and well integrated dram, with malt, almonds, cocoa, and spice on the palate, while the long, spicy finish offers more chocolate, soft fruits, and coffee. —Gavin Smith

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 12 Comments

September 14th, 2011

Review: St. George’s Chapter 11 (cask strength)

John Hansell

St. George’s Chapter 11 (cask strength), 59.7%, £65

St. George’s hits pay dirt! The competition is fierce for young, big, oily, heavily peated whiskies: Kilchoman, Connemara Turf Mor, BenRiach Birnie Moss. This, though, is good enough to mix it in that sort of company. The peat growls like a Harley-Davidson, punches pepper and peat throughout, but best of all, it flicks licorice and hickory kisses just like a real life Laphroaig. Chapter 11 isn’t quite in that league yet…but it’s certainly moving in the right direction. —Dominic Roskrow

(Currently not available in the U.S.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: English whisky,New Releases,Reviews,Writers Tags: 16 Comments

September 13th, 2011

Review: Mortlach 16 year old

John Hansell

Mortlach 16 year old, 43%, £41

With worm tubs and a fiendishly complex partial-triple distillation, Mortlach has adhered to an old style of making whisky — and older, richer, darker flavors. Big and bold, it is at its best in ex-sherry casks. The nose is meaty (think gravy/beef stock) with fig, raisin, and molasses. In the mouth it’s concentrated, with good grip and a savory sweetness. A cult malt. —Dave Broom(Not currently available in the U.S.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 26 Comments

September 12th, 2011

Review: Compass Box Great King Street, 43%, $45

John Hansell

Compass Box Great King Street, 43%, $45

After a series of esoteric and expensive releases, Compass Box has decided to bring it all back to the people with a blend — and how! The journey sets out as we might expect; all sweet vanilla ice cream, stewed pear tart, and peach melba, but then a wave of spice and white pepper provides an unexpected but delightful twist. It’s like Spice Tree meets Hedonism…Spiconism if you like. —Dominic Roskrow

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 40 Comments

August 26th, 2011

Review: Macallan Sherry Oak 18 year old

John Hansell

Macallan Sherry Oak 18 year old, 43%, $118

Macallan’s 18 year old expression is, for me, the highlight of its regular sherried range. Deep amber in color. The nose is rich and heavily fruited: fruit cake, mulberry, a little moist gingerbread, the bloody depths of molasses. On the palate, dried fruits — more figgy than raisined — while the natural oiliness in the spirit balances the boisterous tannins from the European oak. A singed note on the finish (an extension of the molasses?) completes the picture. Balanced and complex. —Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 31 Comments

August 23rd, 2011

Review: Ardmore Traditional Cask, 1998 vintage

John Hansell

Ardmore Traditional Cask, 1998 vintage, 46%, $50

A single cask of Ardmore aged in first-fill bourbon cask and then finished in a quarter cask. This one is more mature, with more depth, than the standard Ardmore Traditional Cask (which I rated 80 a few years back). Notes of toffee, vanilla bean, chocolate fudge, licorice stick, bourbon, tar, charcoal, and a hint of burnt raisin. Very nice! (A Julio’s Liquors Exclusive.) – John Hansell

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 10 Comments

August 22nd, 2011

Review: Glen Grant 25 year old

John Hansell

Glen Grant 25 year old, 43%, £255

Glen Grant’s new(ish) owner Campari is putting its money where its mouth is. Investment in plant, wood, and an impressive visitor center is slowly being backed up with a series of new releases. This venerable example comes from Gordon & MacPhail’s stocks, but is an official bottling due out in time for Christmas. This is GG in relaxed, avuncular mode: subtle woods, amber, Oolong tea, anise. The palate is old apple, fresh plum, cream, and ginger spiciness. (Available at the distillery, in France, and Travel Retail in Asia only.) —Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 8 Comments

August 19th, 2011

Review: Macallan Royal Wedding

John Hansell

Macallan Royal Wedding, 46.8%, £150

Rising above the tat issued to celebrate the nuptials of Prince William and Kate Middleton was this extremely limited (1,000 bottles) release from The Macallan. The nose is a mélange of rich fruits, marzipan, and beeswax/resin but it lifts with a drop of water to show apricot and heavy florals. The palate isn’t overly grippy, with more orange peel, almond, and characteristic oiliness. A malty/nutty smooth finish makes this a great one. —Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

(Not available in the U.S.)

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 16 Comments

August 18th, 2011

Review: Springbank 11 year old

John Hansell

Springbank, 11year old, 58%, $105

Finished in a rum cask. Gently sweet (caramel, vanilla cream, kiss of honey), with balancing fruit (lime, kiwi, green grape) and spice (white pepper, brine). Youthful (but not immature). Invigorating briny finish. I don’t know what kind of rum cask was used, but it comes across more like sugar cane juice-based rhum agricole than the molasses-based rums. Very nice! (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.) — John Hansell

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 10 Comments

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