August 17th, 2010

Guest Review: Ichiro’s Malt, Hanyu 23 year old “sherry casks,” 58%, £450

John Hansell

Japanese whiskies are hot property in Europe these days, but for some reason few have yet to penetrate the US market. In the following reviews over the next two weeks, Dave Broom either gives you the heads up on what’s available or taunts you by talking about whiskies you can’t try.  We prefer the former.

This oldie (from a distillery which closed in 2000) seems pretty straightforward compared to the Mizunara [see following review], but has less dried fruit than the sherry note on the label might suggest. Think dried peels rather than raisin, then stir in some freshly-polished floor. The aromas are saturated and heavy — almost as if they are drifting towards you on humid air. The palate shows light smoke and then a pleasant quinine bitterness mid-palate. This has the Japanese quality of laying flavors out very precisely on the tongue while also heightening their intensity. Water reduces the quinine effect, allowing the richness of the spirit to come through. Hanyu was a pretty big and firm (even rigid) whisky. Here that shell has cracked, allowing anise and blueberry to come through. – Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: Japanese whisky,Reviews 7 Comments

August 11th, 2009

Which young whiskies are better than their older siblings?

John Hansell

This is an offshoot of my recent blog posting on over-priced whiskies.

Give us some examples where you feel the younger (and less expensive) bottling from a distillery is actually better than the older (and more expensive) offering.

I think this is an excellent topic to discuss, because it can save a lot of people money and disappointment. I’ll get the ball rolling by starting off with four examples.

I like Macallan 18 over the 25 yr. old.

I prefer Caol Ila 12  to the 18 yr. old.

I like Suntory Yamazaki 18  more than their 25 yr. old.

And I’ll take just about any Evan Williams over their 23 yr. old offering for the export market (too much wood for me).

So, let’s see your comparisons. Include all whiskies, not just scotch. And if you can, list the prices of the whiskies too!

Category: Bourbon,Irish whiskey,Japanese whisky,Opinions,Rye whiskey,Scotch whisky 35 Comments

August 11th, 2009

Review: Suntory Yamazaki 1984 Vintage

John Hansell

Suntory Yamazaki, 1984 Vintage, 48%, $600
The first vintage Suntory Yamazaki offered in the U.S. (300 bottles will be available in October.) A portion of this whisky is aged in Japanese Oak. Heavy aroma, with lush sherried fruit and deep juicy oak, marrying with firmly dry and spicy oak resin (the Japanese oak influence is obvious). This same profile follows through on the palate: ripe berried fruit, raisin, blackberry jam, plum spiced with cinnamon, vanilla spearmint, roasted nuts and gripping leather. All this, lying on a bed of molasses and toffee. The Japanese Oak really kicks in on its invigoratingly spicy, warm, resinous finish. Very elderly in nature, but remains very exciting and dynamic, even with all the oak.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 8 Comments

July 29th, 2009

Suntory Yamazaki to debut 1984 Single Malt Whisky

John Hansell

For the first time ever, Suntory will be selling a vintage single malt in the U.S. It’s a 1984 vintage, and it will be available here in October. I have a sample and will be posting up my review shortly.

The press release, along with a nice background on Japanese whisky-making and the history of Japanese whisky, follows.

SUNTORY YAMAZAKI 1984 SINGLE MALT WHISKY
The Distinctive Whisky of Japan

(July 29, 2009) – New York, NY… Suntory Limited proudly announces the limited introduction of YAMAZAKI 1984 Single Malt Whisky in the US, commemorating the company’s 110th anniversary as well as the 25th anniversary of the YAMAZAKI brand.  This October, only 300 individually-numbered bottles of this precious liquid will be released in the United States. 

Smooth and full-bodied, Suntory YAMAZAKI is the superlative single malt whisky of Japan.  YAMAZAKI 1984 has a distinctive, cinnamon-like flavor, the result of its key malt, aged in Japanese mizunara casks, the hidden treasure of Suntory. All of the malt whiskies featured in YAMAZAKI 1984 were originally distilled in 1984. The new YAMAZAKI 1984 joins the existing marques, aged for 12 or 18 years. 

About Yamazaki 1984
Handcrafted at the oldest distillery in Japan, Suntory YAMAZAKI 1984 is made from the purest natural ingredients distilled through the art of Japanese craftsmanship in perfect harmony with nature.  Indeed, Suntory YAMAZAKI is made with the same pure water used in Japan’s most esteemed tea ceremonies.  With a rich, sophisticated character all its own, Yamazaki’s secret lies in the harmonious marriage of single malt matured in three different oak casks – American, Spanish and Japanese.

As the supply of casks became limited in the 1940’s, Suntory turned to making its own casks from Japanese mizunara oak.   The coopers discovered the porous wood was prone to leaks; blenders found that the mizunara imparted overbearing aromas and taste to the malts stored within.  But their dismay turned to delight when they discovered, after the long period of aging, the mizunara oak casks added a distinctive touch to the whisky, endowing it with sweet fragrance reminiscent of incense.  

The Suntory YAMAZAKI Whisky-Making Process
While YAMAZAKI production is very similar to the Scottish process, key differences lie in the use of selected barley strains and peating levels, along with the legendary, ultra pure waters from the outskirts of Kyoto to produce its smooth, honeyed taste.

The Suntory YAMAZAKI production process begins with the selection of the finest barley according to strict quality standards.  The barley germinates on exposure to moisture and air, producing enzymes that will later convert starch into sugars.  The grains of malt are then ground into grist and mixed with pure water from the Vale of Yamazaki.  This mixture yields a sweet liquid called wort. 

Adding the finest yeast to the wort begins the fermentation process.  Differing from Scottish whisky, Yamazaki uses wooden washbacks to ferment the wash longer, giving the whisky its creamy flavor.  The resulting wash is distilled twice in copper pots.  Only the distinctive middle cut of the second distillation is collected to become whisky.

After the distillation process is complete, the new spirits are aged in the selection of Japanese, American and Spanish oak casks, where the whisky matures to its amber color and smooth taste.

Tasting Notes
On the nose, YAMAZAKI 1984 opens with notes of cinnamon, ripe fruit, vanilla and incense.  On the palate, it offers a sweet, pleasantly sour and mature taste with a lasting depth of flavor.  The finish is lingering and slightly sweet.  Its color is a deep red amber.

History of Japanese Whisky
The history of Japanese whisky began in 1923 when Shinjiro Torii, the founder of Suntory and the father of Japanese whisky, built Japan’s first malt whisky distillery in the Vale of Yamazaki.  Located on the outskirts of Kyoto, the ancient capital of Japan, this proved to be the ideal environment for whisky production. 

A good whisky is born of pure water and a climate where cool temperatures and high humidity create an ideal maturation environment.  The Vale of Yamazaki is famed for its pure waters, prized by the famous Japanese tea ceremony master Senno Rikyu.  The Yamazaki distillery, where whisky was crafted from pure malt using copper pot stills, was the first of its kind outside of Scotland. 

Today, Suntory YAMAZAKI is the most popular single malt whisky in Japan and is enjoyed by whisky connoisseurs the world over.  Suntory YAMAZAKI was ranked the world’s thirteenth bestselling single malt whisky in terms of cases sold in 2008, and is currently exported to around 25 countries, including the United States.

Enjoying Suntory YAMAZAKI
The complex aromas and flavors of Suntory YAMAZAKI can be enjoyed in a variety of ways.  The ideal method to appraise its rich, fruity aroma is to enjoy YAMAZAKI straight, either as an aperitif or after-dinner drink.  Tasting Suntory YAMAZAKI on the rocks is an excellent way to appreciate its smoothness and flavor. 

Product Name, Volume, Suggested Retail Price, Alcohol Content, Packaging:
The YAMAZAKI 1984 Single Malt Whisky, 750 ml, $550-$650, 48%, 6 bottles
Date Available: Gradual release starting October, 2009
Sales Area: Select US Markets

Category: Breaking news,Japanese whisky,New Releases Tags: 14 Comments

July 22nd, 2009

Review: Suntory Hibiki 12 yr. old

John Hansell

I first wrote about this here last week. It won’t be available in the U.S. until October 1st.

 Hibiki, 12 year old, 43%, $55
Well-rounded, solid malt backbone, and very drinkable. These are the characteristics of this impressive blend. Honeysuckle, vanilla-coated malt and fruit (pineapple upside down cake, lemon tart, plum, bramble) are the primary flavors. Ripe barley, marzipan, beeswax, and clove round out the palate. Gentle, soothing finish. Suntory can make a 12 year old blend this good with just two malt distilleries? Scotland, are you taking notice?

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases,Reviews Tags: , 11 Comments

July 14th, 2009

Suntory launching Hibiki 12 y/o in U.S.

John Hansell

This Japanese blended whisky was introduced to select European markets this past May. I was informed yesterday by their PR company that the whisky will be launched in the U.S. on October 1st.

I am  very excited about this. Suntory has many great whiskies in addition to their Yamazaki single malts. Hibiki is one. Hakushu, their other single malt distillery, is another. Maybe this means we might see Hakushu coming to the US in the near future? Let’s hope so.

Here’s some details on Hibiki from Suntory’s website.

I’m getting a review sample shorty and will report back with my thoughts.

Category: Japanese whisky,New Releases Tags: , 10 Comments

June 19th, 2009

Dave Broom joins Malt Advocate

John Hansell

Dave Broom is my friend and someone I respect very much professionally. Based on your comments recently here on WDJK, you feel the same way.

I’m thrilled to announce that he will be writing for Malt Advocate in the future. His first feature on Japanese whisky will debut in our next issue, due out September 1st. I just read it, You’re going to love it.

I have always been proud of the editorial content of Malt Advocate, but there’s always room for improvement. Dave will help us take Malt Advocate to the next level. Welcome aboard Dave!

Category: Japanese whisky,Malt Advocate Mag,Writers Tags: 15 Comments

January 8th, 2008

Is it the beginning of the end of reciprocation?

John Hansell

It’s a well known fact that the Scotch whisky industry reciprocates with each other. Companies with blended whiskies (which is just about everyone) need certain whiskies from their competition to formulate their blends, so they buy or trade for them with money or stocks of their own whisky which their competitors need for their blends.

Buying whisky from your competition? No one wants to buy whiskies from their competition if they don’t have to. And they would certainly want to keep the whisky they make for their own blends, rather than supplying their competition.  Especially now, when supplies are tight and demand is up. 

You can bet that, as these companies crank up production and look at their estimates for the next few decades, they will want to factor in enough production to cover what they need for their blends too. But, they will have to do more than just crank up production. They will need to devote a certain portion of their production to creating experimental whiskies that will mimic the whiskies that they currently don’t make and must procure from their competition.

Of course, it’s not like this sort of thing hasn’t been done before. Seagram experimented with making smoky whiskies (i.e. Glenisle) from their non-smoky Speyside distilleries decades ago because they didn’t have any Islay whiskies in their portfolio. United Distillers (now Diageo) cranked up the peating level for Brora back a few decades ago to take some pressure off of Lagavulin.

When Burn Stewart took over Bunnahabhain (and the Black Bottle blend) just this past decade, they started dedicating a certain portion of their production to making smoky whisky–which Bunnahabhain normally isn’t! They need smoky whisky for the Black Bottle blend and the more smoky whisky they make “in house”, the less they have to buy from their competitors. Indeed, they have already released a bottle of smoky Bunnahabhain for a recent Islay Whisky Festival (Feis Ile), and I now see smoky Bunnahabhain whiskies available through the independent bottlers.

The desire to not reciprocate bodes well for us, the whisky enthusiast.  It forces whisky companies to experiment, and hopefully some of these experimentations will eventually show up in a bottle in one form or another.

And here’s a little secret for you: when it comes to experimentation driven by a lack of reciprocation, the Japanese have the Scots beaten hands down!

The Japanese whisky industry, while only a little more than 80 years old, doesn’t reciprocate. This has forced each whisky company, like Suntory, to experiment right from the beginning. Let me tell you, I can only think of one Scotch distillery (Bruichladdich) and one bourbon distillery (Buffalo Trace) that comes close to what Suntory has been doing for a very long time.

Don’t believe me? Just spend a day or two with Suntory at their research lab, and visit their two distilleries, Yamazaki and Hakushu. You will be very impressed.

I don’t know how all this will play out over the next few decades. This will largely be a “behind the scenes” sort of thing. After all, Burn Stewart isn’t going to be sending out press releases telling everyone that they cut back Lagavulin, Laphroaig, and Ardbeg by 15% in their Black Bottle blend and replaced it with a peated Bunnahabhain. We will just have to wait and see if the personality of blended whiskies (like Dewar’s, Chivas, J&B, etc.) change in flavor or complexity over the next few decades.

If it means that we’ll be enjoying some new, exciting and “untraditional” malt whiskies in the future (brought on by a lack of reciprocation), then I’m willing to take that risk.

Category: Japanese whisky,Scotch whisky 4 Comments

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