February 22nd, 2008
Brora, 30 year old, 55.7%, $400
Astonishingly fresh and clean for 30 years in oak, and with incredible depth. Slight oily texture. Appetizing brine, with honeyed vanilla, mustard seed, green olive, Seville orange, and lemon zest. Underlying smoke, damp peat and seaweed. Put simply, Brora at its finest.
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95
February 15th, 2008
Keeping in the Irish whiskey theme for the “Friday’s Pick”, here’s Bushmill’s newest entry. I’ve been sitting on this whiskey for a while, waiting closer to its release date here in the U.S. before posting a review. It’s a really nice, limited-edition, blended Irish whiskey released to celebrate the 400th Anniversary of Bushmills (the location, not the distillery).
Bushmills 1608, 46%, $75
A blend of three different types of whiskey—malt whiskey, grain whiskey, and a third component which is said to be a malt whiskey produced from crystal malt. Brewers and homebrewers will know crystal malt well, being a slightly caramelized version of malted barley. Its rich texture suggests a decent malt content for a blend. Layers of sweetness (honeyed vanilla, rummy molasses, toasted marshmallow) are balanced by toasted nuts, dried fruit, and dark chocolate. Very dynamic and with plenty of grit. Smartly bottled at 46% ABV.
Advanced Malt Advocate Magazine rating: 90
February 8th, 2008
This whiskey will be hitting the shelves in the U.S. in March, and there’s a press dinner in NYC later this month. As you have come to expect with “What Does John Know?”, I already have this whiskey and I’m offering my thoughts well in advance.
Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve, 2007 Release, 46%, $250
Jameson’s newest premium release. The combination of aging some of the pot still whiskey in port casks, including some older whiskeys (over 20 years old), along with bottling the whiskey at 46% ABV (and not chill-filtered) has helped make this whiskey rich, deep, and complex. This is a silky smooth, lush, multi-faceted whiskey with notes of honeydew melon, nectarine, banana bread, creamy vanilla, chocolate fudge, toffee, warming cinnamon and nutmeg. The port influence marries nicely with robust oak notes, and the grain whiskey component helps to keep it very drinkable. A more intense affair when compared to the “great anytime” 18 year old expression. A classic after dinner Irish whiskey.
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95
February 1st, 2008
Lonach (distilled at Carsebridge), 1963 vintage, 43 year old, 43%, $115
A rare bottling indeed, from this now defunct grain distillery. Very tropical, with a macaroon and vanilla cream foundation. Complementary notes of marshmallow, crème brulee, honey and pineapple. Surprisingly vibrant for a 43 year old whisky and, while expressing sweeter notes, not at all cloying (the grain whisky aspects actually helps here). Soothing and distinctive. Great price, too!
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85
January 25th, 2008
The Glenrothes, 1975 vintage, 43%, $500
A polished, very elegant expression with subtle complexity throughout. Notes of squeaky-clean fruit (tangerine, peach, nectarine, kiwi) in light syrup. Vibrant spice (cinnamon, white pepper, anise), creamy vanilla and almond evolve on the palate, leading to a gentle finish. Surprisingly lively for a whisky more than 30 year old.
When I think of great Glenrothes vintages, I go back to the 1972 vintage for comparison. Both are comparable in quality, with the 1972 vintage showing darker sugars, more weight, and more roasted nuts.
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 93
January 18th, 2008
Willett Single Barrel Estate Reserve Bourbon, Barrel # A-4614, 47%, $35
Bottled in a really cool glass pot still decanter. Soft and elegant on the nose and palate, and very well balanced. An incredibly drinkable whiskey. There’s no age statement on the bottle, but it was bottled at just the right time, based on its great balance of flavors. Notes of vanilla, coconut, and crème brulee, provide a base for emerging notes of cedar wood shavings, cinnamon, soft mint and a hint of fennel. A very graceful bourbon.
Advanced Malt Advocate Magazine rating: 90
January 11th, 2008
Compass Box, Canto Cask 46, 53.2%, $65
Aged in new French Oak cask heads with a long toasting. Deliciously creamy, sweet toasty profile, with coconut cream, toasted marshmallow, toffee pudding and honeyed vanilla. Gentle spice notes (especially clove) and hints of fruit dance on the palate. Very soothing. (Bottled for Park Avenue Liquor)
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91
January 4th, 2008
Wild Turkey American Spirit, 15 year old, 50%, $90
A clean, well-rounded bourbon packed with flavor. Deep amber, with tinges of gold. Rich, silky aromas, with thickly textured, seamless flavors on the palate. Incredibly smooth, too, with interwoven notes of toffee, molasses, creamy vanilla, and candy corn. Underlying lush fruit, cinnamon, and fresh mint—especially on the finish—round everything out. Some of the previous “extra matured” Wild Turkey whiskeys have occasionally shown their age on the finish, being a little heavy on the oak. Not this one. Nicely done.
Advanced Malt Advocate Magazine Rating: 94
December 28th, 2007
Compass Box, Flaming Heart (Batch #2), 48.9%, $85
Balanced Islay whiskies combine peat smoke characteristics with a sweet foundation. They’re not one-dimensionally smoky. This whisky is an excellent example. This is a peat-laden whisky with refinement and grace. Creamy vanilla, caramel, and honey harmoniously marry with persistent—yet controlled—peat smoke. Crisp spice notes and dancing fruit throughout add complexity. Well done.
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine Rating: 92
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