Whisky making is no longer restricted to the old countries of Scotland, Ireland, the U.S., Canada, and Japan. These days, it seems as if every country in the world has a whisky distillery or two hidden away. Dave Broom’s new book, The World Atlas of Whisky, takes a look at this phenomenon examining the question of how the new distillers create a flavor which is authentically their own. Here are some of his top picks from the ‘New World’ of whisky.
(I’ll be traveling all week on business. While I am away, I thought we could focus on various countries each day for the rest of the week. Dave’s reviews will also appear in the next issue of Malt Advocate.)
To quote Dave: “The scores reflect all these whiskies in their own context — as young spirits from different countries with their own individual personalities.”
Millstone 8 year old, 43%, £59
Based in the village of Baarle-Nassau in the Netherlands, the Zuidam distillery was built by genever distiller Fred Van Zuidam in 2002 and is now run by his son Patrick, who started distilling at the age of 14. His single malt is made from windmill-ground barley, given temperature-controlled fermentation, distilled in Holstein stills, and aged in new oak for a period before being racked into older casks. A rich amber color, this expression is ripe and fruity with plenty of red cherry, a little hint of fig, and a little sweet spice. Balanced and rich with a fresh citric farewell this is a classy arrival on the world scene. (Dave Broom)
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87
Zuidam Dutch Rye 5 year old, 40%, £46
Patrick van Zuidam uses rye as part of his genever, but when a farmer phoned up saying he had a surplus, he figured he might as well try a 100% rye whisky. Of similarly deep hue to the 8 year old, but a little more ruddy, this has a more waxy aroma, but with fresh rye sourdough penetrating. The spiciness which typifies rye here has a North African edge: cumin, cinnamon, coriander seed. The palate is less explosive and dusty than American examples; this is more of a slow-burning fuse that passes through orange and smooth, sweet oak before the spices return. (Dave Broom)
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86
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