As of November 23, 2011 the term “vatted” has been declared illegal for use on the label of whisky. Dominic Roskrow reports on this historical day in whisky history.
That’s the end of vat…
By Dominic Roskrow
Few companies have done more to further the cause of vatted malt whisky than London-based producer Compass Box. So it was fitting that when the term was consigned to the dustbin of history by the British Government, whisky maker John Glaser and supporters were on hand to mark the occasion.
Assorted Compass Box staff, bloggers, and retailers marched to the British Parliament buildings at Westminster on a warm winter evening to watch Glaser mix the last ever vatted malt on Westminster Bridge as the chimes of midnight rang out from Big Ben, marking the official last time that a whisky can be described as a “vatted malt.”
Vatted malts are a mixture of malts from different distilleries; they are distinct from blended whisky because they contain no grain whisky. But a few years ago the Scotch Whisky Association moved to have the term outlawed, and to have it replaced with the term “blended malt whisky.” Critics of the change, including Glaser and Compa
ss Box, were vociferous in their opposition because they argue that the new term is far too similar to the term ‘blended whisky,’ and it is very difficult to explain to people, particularly in languages other than English.
Many of Compass Box’s most successful whiskies are vatted malts, so John Glaser felt it right to mark the occasion in style. “It was in the Houses of Parliament that a term that was almost as old as whisky itself was outlawed,” he said. “So it was only fitting that it was there that we went to mark the end of vatted malts.”
It says much about how trendy quality whisky is today that the protest began with a party at one of Soho’s most fashionable style bars. Cocktails made with Compass Box whisky were served before Glaser appeared, coincidentally arriving as the DJ put on Black Sabbath’s “Iron Man.”
From there about 20 supporters walked down to the River Thames and on to the bridge at Westminster. As Big Ben rang out the chimes of midnight Glaser mixed and bottled the last-ever “vatted whisky.” Both vatted malt and vatted grain whiskies were put on sale by Compass Box, but sold out quickly due to huge demand.
You know… the term ‘vatted malt’ is, in the grand scheme of things, also pretty ambiguous. But the idea that somehow it’s LESS ambiguous and more ‘pure to Scotch’ to use the term blended malt to describe a vatted malt vs blended to describe something entirely different is, to be blunt, asinine.
And that in this era of massive issues in the EU and the world at large, a law to outlaw a term that’s been used on whisky for centuries can get whisked through the legal system shows just how bought and paid for (and irrelevant) lawmakers often are.
I would argue that to someone unfamiliar with whisky terminology, “Blended Malt Whisky” is a fairy straightforward and easy to understand term for what is in the bottle, easily distinguishable from the term “Blended Whisky,” and more intuitive than “Vatted Malt.”
That said, on issues like this I take the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” stance. What was wrong with “Vatted Malt”? It’s an established term that has been used for a very long time and, though not intuitive, is very easy to explain. The translation issue is also interesting and something I would never have thought about. If Glazer says the two terms are hard to distinguish in different languages, I have to assume that he’s right.
What is really ironic is that the general public has no clue that blended scotch is made up of malt and grain whisky. They just think that blended means from multiple distilleries. Even Alton Brown made this mistake on the Good Eats punch episode (on Food Network). Having said that, Compass Box Whisky has been a consistent breath of fresh air over the last decade, and I always enjoy chatting with John Glaser at Whiskyfest.
I agree with what everyone else seems to be saying about vatted malt, the problem, and it really was a problem, was with the people who used the terms “all malt” and “pure malt” which were both perfectly legal to use at the same time as vatted malt. They are the ones that are really ambiguous, there’s even suspicion that one company in particular used the term pure malt to try and imply that their product was better than the rest. Those 2 terms are the ones that should have been banned, not vatted malt.
The bigger problem is that people already are unaware that single malts are blends of different whiskies themselves. I can’t tell you how many people go into a state of shock when I tell them that Macallan 12 is not actually one single 12 year old whisky. “I thought single malt meant one single whisky.”
After reading this it makes me wonder what your take on it is? A single malt is, after all is said and done, the produce of one distillery. A blended, or vatted, malt can come from as many distilleries as the blender wants to use.
Right, a BLEND of whiskies from one distillery which states the age of the youngest whisky in the BLEND. Unless it’s a single barrel
A VATTING of many barrels from one distillery…and a good reason right there for the change in terminology. All from the same distillery = vatting, from different distilleries = blend.
Now you see my point. No one understands what you just said but me, you, and the other people on this site
Sort of like arguing ad infinitum about a referee’s call during a sporting event. In the end, any other position matters not, as there’s not a damn thing you can do about it.
Count me as one who was opposed to the change, but now see the current terminology as pretty logical. The problem of what means what, and educating consumers, remains, regardless of terminology. “Vatted malt” probably doesn’t mean a thing to anyone not well versed in whisky esoterica; “blended malt” may be a bit confusing, but I think is actually easier to explain–blended whisky containing only malts. Whatever the terms, if you’re dealing with a novice, you got a lot of ‘splainin’ to do.
I LOVE the packaging (though not enough to motivate me to purchase the bottles. The interior liquid is the motivation!).
I’ve worked behind a bar and sold Compass Box whisky by the glass. It was almost always the occasion to ‘tell a story’ about whisky and educate the interested patron. Honestly this change just becomes another part of that ‘story,’ should I get around to sharing it. The real interesting download for most people remains the same: blending and creative barreling techniques can make for very interesting spirits.
Three cheers for Glaser, a true innovator. Just wish I could have picked up one of those bottlings.
Thewhiskyexchange still has both bottles in stock, akaik. =) PRICEY, though… around $250 US.
Hey, an off-topic question…and I apologize for same. But if you are in the U.S. and buy from The Whiskey Exchange — I’ve been impressed with their website — do you pay the exchange rate (in U.S. dollars) *PLUS* a Customs fee? Or no Customs if it’s for personal consumption and just a bottle or two? Again, apologies…but any insights would be helpful!
Your credit card will take care of the exchange (and possibly charge you a foreign transaction fee, as well–maybe 3%). I’ve never purchased from TWE, but have from some other shops. I’ve never been charged duty, but I have heard of it happening. Cross your fingers. If it helps, you should not be liable for VAT, which, for a pricier bottle, will probably offset shipping.
Thank you!
If the scotch industry really cared about clarity and comprehensibility they would also be calling standard blends “Blended Malt and Grain Whisky.” However, they do not really care about these things.
The real issue is that the word “Vatted” is a word that does not have a place in the paradigm that mainstream scotch marketing wants constructed– Yes marketers are *that* sensitve about the climate they operate in– And because of his work on the branding of Johnnie Walker and Compass Box Glaser is seen as one of the people to watch in the scotch marketing world– The word “Vatted” is ok just floating around out there but not ok as a key element in the brand/campaign of an influential figure like Glaser.
You’re right, Red, but then we’d probably need to explain what grain whisky is. Seems there’s no solution without some fault here.
Well– we do need to explain what grain whisky is, which ironically is what Glaser’s been doing for years. The industry should be thanking him for educating consumers about grain and blends and promoting them as artisan products (as opposed to the usually image of them as industrial rubbish), but as i said they’d rather keep things vague … This reflects their insecurity about and lack of focus with regard to their products.
What type of grain is typically used in grain whisky anyways? I always assumed they used corn as it has such a great yield.
I’ve read that they use whatever is cheapest, and that has been corn for some years.
Corn for some decades I think, actually. I think they’d have a lot of trouble maintaining character if they switched to something else.
Thanks in part to irrational policies subsidizing the use of corn for fuel production instead of food, right now corn is at $277 per metric ton versus somewhere around $212 for barley. Kinda crazy, isn’t it?
Bruichladdich did do that x4 thing where they used high proof barely new make for fuel– As a single malt drinker, I sure hope that doesn’t catch on
When the abandoned Michter’s distillery in PA was seized by officials many years ago, the stocks (including some amazing Sam Thompson straight rye) were removed and re-distilled into racing fuel!
Re-distilling *aged* whiskey into racing fuel?– Seems so unthinkable. I guess that shows how much the value of aged whisky has gone up in the years between then and now.
Lets all just hush and have a little nip.
Aye!
Arr!
BTW… re: ordering from The Whisky Exchange. They are amazing. I order from them from time to time
You DO NOT pay VAT. I have been charged a few bucks on my card for a foreign transaction fee. They use a courier service to deliver which is cool… you are rolling the dice with Customs. If they pass it, cool. If not, you pay. The choice is yours 
Just thought I would pop by and say hello from Compass Box HQ. A fascinating debate, as ever.
First of all, and most importantly, even though the Last Vatted Grain has sold out, there are still a few bottles left of the Last Vatted Malt on our UK-based website http://www.compassboxwhisky.com (as well as through our friends like The Whisky Exchange) if you would like to pick one up. Unless Dominic has bought them all of course.
Re the new regulations, it sounds like we are all pretty much in agreement. Whiskies definitely needed to be codified – not least to avoid Pure Malt debacles in the future – so much about the new regs was great. Also, our point was never that ‘Vatted Malt’ was the perfect term for what we did (although we were rather fond of it) it was more that ‘Blended Malt’ made things more rather than less confusing for all concerned. Namely that the vast majority of consumers would hereafter lump all ‘Blended’ whiskies together (as opposed to ‘Single’ whiskies) and think that a Blended Malt Scotch would taste like – and was the same as – a Blended Scotch. Whereas of course they are two very different styles, each with their own charms and occasions.
That said, we tried to fight that battle several years ago and lost, so the new laws are what they are and we have to move on. And this was what Last Vatted Malt was all about – trying to bring attention to and educate people about the new terms and styles and what they all meant. And of course to make some rather tasty whisky to give the learned ‘Vatted Malt’ category a valedictory farewell. I’ll certainly drink to that. Cheers to one and all. Chris
I said it at the time. This is a horrible change and could kill the segment. Here in the USA, where our blends contain GNS, we know the word ‘blend’ is the kiss of death. Also, and strangely, in the USA ‘blend’ is defined as “a combination of two or more whiskeys of different types,” which ‘blended malt whisky’ is not. You would think the SWA would at least have enough sense to harmonize its regulations with those of its biggest market. I predict this will end badly.
Right Chuck. GNS (and who really wants to speak its name?) is a whole step below even Scottish Grain Whisky. And even with all the current adventuring in US Spirits, it’ll be the day before we see an American “John Glaser” ever bottle GNS on its own.
When you say “this will end badly,” what kind of end do you have in mind– Compass box going under? The regulations ultimately being changed?
Because Compass Box is a recognized and respected brand name, they’ll probably be okay. They’ll also probably make the words “blended malt whisky” as small as possible on the label, rather than try to educate consumers and elevate the status of the term.
Smarter people than me insist that people buy brands, not categories, but this might make it more difficult to launch and develop new products. At worst, people will equate blended malts with regular blends, which might not be so bad. Only American blends are universally considered garbage.
I don’t know the SWA well enough to predict how they will respond if the blended malt whisky segment struggles. Will they let it die or change the rules? I couldn’t say.
By “badly” I just mean lots of confusion, and people mostly drawing wrong conclusions. I teach classes for whiskey beginners and I can tell you these concepts do not stick in people’s minds easily.
That’s a lot of good insights, Chuck.
I have certainly noticed that beginners have a lot of trouble understanding the differences between the many spirits categories– That goes for myself too. I remember buying the first Hedonism when I basically did not understand what Blended Scotch or Scottish Grain Whisky really were. I remember being excited about how the whisky was in a weird category, but having serious problems explaining to my friends what that category was.
However, I’m not sure if this will have an impact on Compass Box’s growth or not. My feeling it’s the distinctive packaging + value/quality that have carried them this far. I think (hope) that their brand image and values will carry them right through this.
Just a poor old attorney here who hates to see an established phrase, which made tremendous sense to me, obliterated by law for a confusing term. -I agree with everyone who writes that the use of ‘blended’ will confuse and may even be the kiss of death. I wish the traditionalists in Scotland, etc., would continue to lobby for the old word -and get rid of the confusing ones (i.e. ‘pure malt’, etc.).
More generally, I wish vatted were more respected & known, and that there were more vatteds to choose from. I like Compass Box offerings, Johnnie Green, Sheep Dip and others. I just came across an inexpensive one, Glen Salen, that I now quite like. But there are too few. Yet in some regards this style of whisky represents a kind of ideal when done properly: fine malts married by the art of an expert blender to create a more complex and fuller scotch. Blending is a great art in scotches, though I am also a single malt fan; vatted malts are arguably their finest rendering. I was recently shocked to realize how old this tradition is and how many vatteds there have been in the past. Check this site out:
Just a poor old attorney here who hates to see an established phrase, which made tremendous sense to me, obliterated by law for a confusing term. -I agree with everyone who writes that the use of ‘blended’ will confuse and may even be the kiss of death. I wish the traiditionalists in Scotland, etc., would continue to lobby for the old word -and get rid of the confusing ones (i.e. ‘pure malt’, etc.).
More generally, I wish vatted were more respected & known, and that there were more vatteds to choose from. I like Compass Box offerings, Johnnie Green, Sheep Dip and others. I just came across an inexpensive one, Glen Salen, that I now quite like. But there are too few. Yet in some regards this style of whisky represents a kind of ideal when done properly: fine malts married by an expert blender to create a better and fuller ‘blend.’ I was recently shocked to realize how old this tradition is and how many vatteds there have been in the past. Check this site out (vatted):
http://www.whiskyparadise.com/looking_az.asp?DescrizioneCategoria=Whisky – Vatted&Startpage=Looking
Oh well, something went wrong with the comment I posted above. I hope it is readable.