May 15th, 2011

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Generations: The Glenlivet 70 year old

John Hansell

For the rest of the month, I’ll be posting reviews by some of the other Malt Advocate whisky writers who each have their own defined review area, which I outlined here.

Gordon & MacPhail Generations: The Glenlivet 70 year old, 45.9%, $21,000

You would expect any 70 year old whisky to be crepuscular, dense, and wooded. Not here. The nose is amazingly fresh — distillery character fully intact — with layers of rancio and heavy florals. In time, there’s candle wax, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a touch of leather, even the whiff of a soft mink stole. Concentrated and complex. The palate is like an ancient vin santo with oxidized nuttiness, quince and medlar, and subtle peat. Hugely expressive on the palate, with a sweet finish. Truly remarkable. –Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

photo courtesy of Gordon & MacPhail

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 10 Comments

May 14th, 2011

Review: Douglas of Drumlanrig (distilled at Caol Ila)

John Hansell

Douglas of Drumlanrig (distilled at Caol Ila), Cask #6616, 1985 vintage, 25 year old, 53.9%, $150

Soft and gentle (for Caol Ila, that is), thanks to the 25 years of aging. Plenty of creamy vanilla and honey to go with the malty foundation, along with coal tar, licorice root, and olive, with a hint of brine, juniper, unsweetened dark chocolate, and tobacco (cigars in a humidor?). Very nice. (A Julio’s Liquors exclusive.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 1 Comment

May 13th, 2011

Review: Four Roses 2011 Limited Edition Single Barrel

John Hansell

Four Roses 2011 Limited Edition Single Barrel, 12 year old, 50.9%, $90

Very floral and fragrant. Gently sweet, too: apple tart laced with cinnamon, pancakes drizzled with maple syrup.  Well-defined oak and crisp, dry spice (cinnamon, anise, cocoa, nutmeg) balance the sweetness. An interesting whiskey: big in some ways, yet elegant in others.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 21 Comments

May 12th, 2011

Review: Bowmore Tempest (Second Release)

John Hansell

Bowmore Tempest (Second Release), 10 year old, 56%, $100

The first Tempest to be imported to the U.S. Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks. With the bourbon cask, and relatively young age, you can really feel all the Islay love. Bracing, with plenty of sea character, along with honeyed vanilla, citrus, floral notes (especially lavender), rumbling peat smoke, tobacco, and resinous oak on the finish.  A bit steep in price for a 10 year old, but very dynamic.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 54 Comments

May 11th, 2011

Review: Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte “PC-7,” Cask #1215

John Hansell

Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte “PC-7,” Cask #1215, 7 year old, 63.4%, $120

A single cask from the distillery’s peated “Port Charlotte” line of whiskies. Well behaved for such youth. Nice honeyed malt and soft caramel base with good viscosity as a bed for tarry peat, licorice stick, freshly-ground pepper, and cocoa, along with a kiss of sauternes, delicate pit fruit, smoked seaweed, and a lingering coastal accent. Long, warming finish. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 6 Comments

May 10th, 2011

Review: Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection “Rediscovered Barrels”

John Hansell

Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection “Rediscovered Barrels”
When Buffalo Trace acquired the Old Charter brand, barrels of whiskey came with the deal. Here are three that they “rediscovered.” They’re old for bourbon, so you’re going to find a good dose of wood in their flavor profile.

BTEC “Rediscovered Barrels,” 1993 vintage, 17 year old, 45%, $47
Richly flavored and surprisingly sweet on the nose and front of the palate. A tactile whiskey: creamy, yet becoming resinous toward the finish. Notes of vanilla saltwater taffy, roasted nuts, tobacco, and molasses. An intriguing whiskey, and my favorite of the three. 

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

 BTEC “Rediscovered Barrels,” 1991 vintage, 19 year old, 45%, $47
Quite bold and crisply spicy. The most palate-piercing of the three. Well defined flavors of cool mint, warming cinnamon, honey-kissed fruit, and caramel. Briskly spicy finish. When I nose this whiskey, it feels like it’s brandishing a sword at me and shouting “en garde!”

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

BTEC “Rediscovered Barrels,” 1989 vintage, 21 year old, 45%, $47
A surprising amount of sweetness to balance the wood spice. Notes of pencil shavings, glazed fruit, candy corn, vanilla fudge, and bold polished leather on the finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 14 Comments

May 9th, 2011

Review: Kilchoman, Winter 2010 Release

John Hansell

Kilchoman, Winter 2010 Release, 46%, $63

Aged in both refill and new bourbon casks. The new bourbon casks are evident, and I think it adds richness, vibrancy, and perceived maturity (which I like) when compared to the previous Summer 2010 release. Very pale in color. Brooding, with licorice root, coal tar, bacon fat, damp peat, bright fruit (citrus and pear), and intriguing botanicals, all on a soothing bed of vanilla malt. Smoky, briny finish. I’m still amazed how this very young whisky can taste so mature. Well done!

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 87

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 8 Comments

May 8th, 2011

Review: Hart Brothers (distilled at Laphroaig)

John Hansell

Hart Brothers (distilled at Laphroaig), 1990 vintage, 18 year old, 46%, $135

Bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered. Smart move! It really helps this whisky. This is a soft — almost elegant — Laphroaig (if that’s not an oxymoron). Very clean, with honeyed malt, ripe barley, brine, seaweed, and peat smoke, with just a teasing of the medicinal, band-aid notes that Laphroaig is known for. The owner-bottled 18 year old, which I rated a 90, is darker and drier, with more oak on the finish. I like this Hart Brothers expression just a little better.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 5 Comments

May 7th, 2011

Review: E.H. Taylor Jr. Old Fashioned Sour Mash

John Hansell

Photo courtesy of Buffalo Trace Distillery

E.H. Taylor Jr. Old Fashioned Sour Mash, 50%, $70

This first limited-edition Taylor release attempts to recreate the “sour mash” process used a century ago. Sweet on the nose and palate (fruit gumdrops, sweet corn, vanilla wafer). Spicy too (cinnamon, evergreen), and clinging on the palate. The sweetness is rescued late, with a firm, dry oak finish. Reminds me of an exhilarating rollercoaster ride that puts the brakes on at the end. Not the most balanced, but certainly distinctive.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 9 Comments

May 6th, 2011

Review: Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 11 year old

John Hansell

Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 11 year old, 1999 vintage, 46%, $55

Aged in a used bourbon barrel. Rather soft for Bowmore — especially for its age — with a gentle foundation of honey, vanilla, and malt. Interwoven notes of summer fruit, coconut, lime, and gentle peat, with teasing brine and smoke on the finish. A straightforward, unpretentious, pleasant Bowmore.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 7 Comments

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