May 31st, 2011

Review: Glenfarclas 175th Anniversary

John Hansell

Glenfarclas 175th Anniversary, 43%, £80

First things first — congratulations to the Grants of Glenfarclas on attaining their 175th anniversary. To celebrate, they have vatted together a cask from 1952 with one each from the following five decades — and released it at an exceptionally reasonable price! The nose has a lift of struck match immediately followed by cedar, pomegranate, blackberry jam, and Seville orange. There’s a thick caramel toffee sweetness to the palate alongside the classic ’Farclas depth where dried, but sweet, fruits repose. Recommended. –Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 91

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 14 Comments

May 30th, 2011

Review: Kilbeggan 18 year old

John Hansell

Kilbeggan 18 year old, 40%, $130

Kilbeggan, once overshadowed by its stable-mates, is the rising star in the Cooley repertoire; an active distillery once more and capable of thoroughbred gems like this. This isn’t your typical Irish whiskey at all, so be warned.  Sure there are lashings of soft caramel, peach crumble, and vanilla up front, but then the wood takes over and big waves of tannin and chili pepper kick in. It’s 40% ABV but it delivers a much harder punch. Limited edition release. –Dominic Roskrow

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: Irish whiskey,New Releases,Reviews,Writers Tags: 7 Comments

May 29th, 2011

Review: Penderyn Bourbon single cask, cask strength

John Hansell

Penderyn Bourbon single cask, cask strength, 61.2%, $430

The unusual distilling process and some maturation in Madeira casks has given standard Penderyn a liqueur-like, perfumey quality many whisky fans don’t care for. This is a single bourbon cask bottling of the 11th cask the distillery ever filled, to mark its 10th anniversary, and is less cloying, less feminine, and more gutsy than the standard version. It’s also very palatable and of excellent quality. Some will make it to America, but the price tag will deter all but the most passionate.
–Dominic Roskrow

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Photograph courtesy of Penderyn Distillery

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Welsh Single Malt,Writers Tags: 11 Comments

May 28th, 2011

Review: Fettercairn Fior

John Hansell

Fettercairn Fior, 42%, £36 

Released with no age statement, Fettercairn Fior contains 15 percent heavily-peated whisky matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, along with a proportion of 14 and 15 year old spirit. The result is a bold and complex whisky with real nose presence; smoke, sherry, toffee, vanilla, and oranges merge on the nose, while the palate showcases more smoke and toffee, plus spices, oak, and licorice in the lengthy finish.  –Gavin Smith

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 4 Comments

May 27th, 2011

Review: Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique Cask Strength

John Hansell

Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique Cask Strength, 59.2%, €70

Kavalan is Taiwanese whisky from the King Car Company, and the progress its whiskeys are making is truly remarkable. With humidity roughly the same as Speyside — high — but the temperature more than 20° Fahrenheit  higher, maturation is on fast forward. This is just 4 years old, but it’s a monster mix of kumquat liqueur, tropical fruit, blackcurrant, and strawberry and cream candy. Later on some eastern spices, especially turmeric, bring it all back home. Remarkable.     
–Dominic Roskrow

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Taiwan whisky,Writers Tags: 11 Comments

May 26th, 2011

Review: Glenfiddich, Snow Phoenix

John Hansell

Glenfiddich, Snow Phoenix, 47.6%, $90

Second of this pair of limited editions from Glenfiddich. This was named after a number of the distillery’s warehouse roofs collapsed under the weight of snow in 2010. This was a bottling of a selection of casks — ex-sherry, ex-bourbon, refill — from one of those damaged warehouses. It is gentle and sweet — cooked pear, fruit crumble topped with rolled oats, golden syrup, and on the palate hints of raisin. A lemon finish adds a freshness to a dangerously drinkable dram. –Dave Broom

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: , 43 Comments

May 25th, 2011

Review: Auchentoshan 1998

John Hansell

Auchentoshan 1998, 54.6%, $70

This 1998 vintage triple distilled Lowland Auchentoshan has been matured in fino sherry casks, which are rarely used for Scotch whisky maturation. The nose presents violets in fresh soil, honey, spice, developing citric fruit notes, and almonds. Quite full-bodied, fruity and zesty in the mouth. Lengthy in the finish, with spice, nuts, and oak. Becoming dry and gingery at the last. –Gavin Smith

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

photo courtesy of Morrison Bowmore Distillers

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: 10 Comments

May 24th, 2011

Buffalo Trace’s Single Oak Project (Part 2): My Thoughts and Opinions

John Hansell

I first wrote about it here last week. Have a look if you need to get the background. Today, I’m going to give you the details of the 12-bottle first release and offer some brief thoughts on them.

Here’s a breakdown of each bottle number, along with the variables from each bottling:

3 – Tight Grain, Top Cut, Rye Recipe
4 – Tight, Bottom, Rye
35 – Tight, Top, Wheat
36 – Tight, Bottom, Wheat
67 – Average, Top, Rye
68 – Average, Bottom, Rye
99 – Average, Top, Wheat
100 – Average, Bottom, Wheat
131 – Coarse, Top, Rye
132 – Coarse, Bottom, Rye
163 – Coarse, Top, Wheat
164 – Coarse, Bottom, Wheat

As you will see, the variables are the mash bill (wheat or rye as the “spice” ingredient), which half of the tree the barrel was made from (top or bottom), and the grain size (tight, average, course).

Note that the bottle numbers are grouped in pairs (3-4, 35-36, etc.). The odd numbered bottles are from the top cut of the tree, while the even numbers are from the bottom cut of the tree.

My observations and preferences

First, let me say that my opinions are just one person, and there are other opinions out there that differ from mine. Also, if you want to taste these whiskeys without any opinions bias you, this would be a good time to stop reading this post.

One thing I noticed immediately was that the bottom cut (the even numbers) really show a lot more wood influence (and possibly even terroir).  Generally speaking, I preferred the bourbons that were aged in barrels made from the top part of the trees (the odd numbered bottles). In many instances, the wood from the bottom cut dominates the flavor profile.

I sort of feel the same way with whiskeys aged in barrels made from wood with the course grain size (131, 132, 163, 164). There’s a lot of wood influence there. The course grain particularly dominates the more delicate (and vulnerable?) wheat-spiced whiskeys (163, 164). In fact, 163 and 164 were my least favorite of the twelve. Generally speaking, bourbon made from barrels with average grain size seemed to be the sweet spot.

On the flip side, the wheated whiskeys with “top” wood and both tight and average grain (35 and 99, respectively) were quite nice. They were (respectively) my 2nd and 3rd favorite whiskeys. If you like wheated bourbons, you might consider one of these.

My favorite of the bunch: #67: a rye bourbon with average grain size wood taken from the top of a tree. I felt it was elegant, refined, and sophisticated. I could drink this stuff all day long.

So, trying to summarize what I liked most: whiskeys aged in barrels made from the top parts of the tree with an average grain size for the rye bourbon (#67) and a tight grain for the wheated bourbon (#35), because it’s a more delicate style of whiskey.

Has anyone else tried any of these yet? If so, your thoughts?

Category: Bourbon,New Releases Tags: 23 Comments

May 24th, 2011

Review: Collingwood

John Hansell

Collingwood, 40% ABV, $27

Sweet, rich candy — pulled taffy, boiled sweets — with a little hot edge. Signature Canadian sweetness, but with more depth and a gently mouth-coating feel. Touches of vanilla, caramel, and some of those candy notes again, but the finish isn’t cloying. No overt evidence of the toasted maplewood finishing. Another exploration of what Canadian whisky is, or can be, that stays within bounds and makes the sweet whisky idea work.  –Lew Bryson

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 84

Category: Canadian whisky,New Releases,Reviews,Writers Tags: 22 Comments

May 23rd, 2011

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades

John Hansell

A quintet of releases showing examples of The Glenlivet from five decades, issued to support The Glenlivet Generations 70 year old bottling (see earlier post). All are available individually or in a limited edition set (50 only) for £2,850; these bottlings are not currently available in the U.S. All reviews are by Dave Broom.

1991, 54.4%, £95

The youngest of the quintet has been aged in refill sherry hogsheads, but the coconut that immediately assails the nostrils suggests they were made from American oak. Alongside this is the distillery’s signature pineapple note which sits under a scented, floral lift. Water adds a further layer of ripe pear. The palate is equally heightened with a powdery feel. It’s pretty discreet and I’d be cautious with any dilution. The finish is a mix of night-scented stocks, custard, and green apple.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

1980, 48.5%, £250

This is from a first fill American oak hoggie, and the extra time in cask has given it a classic mature Glenlivet character: a rich, complex mix of cooked apple, pine, and citrus, cut with rose petal. The fruitiness has moved from pear into baked apricot. Water adds an almond note. The scented notes have been retained (especially on the finish), but have deepened into sweet spice. The oak gives light grip. Have with chilled water on the side.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

1974, 50.1%, £500

The nose immediately betrays the fact that this has been matured in a first-fill sherry hogshead. It’s akin to an artisan’s workshop, all leather oil and strange resins. There’s an intriguing hint of curry spices and truffle, but all in all this is about density, black fruits (damson), allspice, and clove. The cask is in charge. The palate has more tannin than you perhaps want — powerful and grippy with lots of nut and tea-like tannins; too grippy for me.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 79
 
1963, 40.6%, £750

A first-fill American oak hoggie was the receptacle for the representative from the 1960s. The cask has provided an extremely relaxed environment for maturation to take place, with a return of the pineapple (grilled on a barbecue this time), along with linden blossom, cream, green jasmine tea, and mint. The effect is like a grown up 1991. The maturity kicks in on the palate — thick and slow with some sandalwood alongside honeysuckle. Gentle and clean, and again not one to dilute.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

1954 50.6%, £1,250

First-fill sherry wood makes a return here and adds its own rich dried fruitiness — think sultana cake — to the exotic whisky rancio notes of cheese rind, sealing wax, and roasting pheasant. As it opens, there’s fig, some peat smoke, black cherry, and concentrated stone fruits. This exotic/savory/sweet interplay continues on the tongue where there’s a surprising hint of mint and some pear blossom. The finish is long, with apple skin, gingerbread, and walnut. A discreet nod to cognac.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 92

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky,Writers Tags: , , 7 Comments

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