January 31st, 2011

Review: Ledaig, 10 year old

John Hansell

Ledaig, 10 year old, 46.3%, $49

Tobermory’s peated offering. Great to see Ledaig hitting its stride, with a brisk punch of peat and not chill-filtered. There’s a bit of a raw edge too, quite bracing but still plenty of soothing sweetness. Earthy peat smoke, ripe barley, honeyed vanilla, bourbon barrel char, black licorice stick, espresso bean, olive brine, and suggestions of beef jerky. In some respects, it even tastes younger than 10 years old, but I’m balancing that with bonus points for distinctiveness.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 18 Comments

January 28th, 2011

Review: High West Double Rye

John Hansell

High West Double Rye, 46%, $35

A blend of two straight whiskeys: a very young 2 year old high rye content whiskey and a 16 year old rye whiskey with a lower rye content. Perhaps the spiciest American whiskey I have ever tasted, yet at the same time, quite tame and mellow. Complex notes of mint, clove, cinnamon, licorice root, pine nuts, and dark chocolate, with a surprising dose of gin botanicals throughout. A soft underbelly of caramel, sweet corn, and soothing vanilla provides an interesting counterpoint. Very easy-drinking, too (hard to believe it’s 46%). Intriguing, and a must-try for rye whiskey aficionados — even if only to satisfy your curiosity.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Rye whiskey Tags: , 14 Comments

January 27th, 2011

Review: Jefferson’s Presidential Select, 18 year old

John Hansell

Jefferson’s Presidential Select, 18 year old, Batch #27, 47%, $90

I’ve tasted several batches of this whiskey (made at the old Stitzel-Weller distillery), from the inaugural Batch #1 when it was a 17 year old, to this new release. It’s not surprising that they taste progressively older. My favorite is still the first batch, but this whiskey holds up nicely and shows a similar flavor profile with a bit more wood influence: blackberry jam, nutty toffee, nougat, creamy vanilla, cinnamon, and a touch of polished oak on the finish. Nice texture, too, with good viscosity and grip on the finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 93

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 20 Comments

January 26th, 2011

“Pure” Pot Still Irish whiskey is now “Single” Pot Still

John Hansell

In case you missed it.  Pure pot still Irish whiskey is now being described at single pot still Irish whiskey. (See the label on Redbreast 15 year old.)

I used the old term during a recent issue of WhiskyNotes and Brendan Buckley, Category Development Director for Irish Distillers, was kind enough to remind me in an email he sent me. I’m posting it below because he explains why the change was made.

Hi John,

Just perusing the latest newsletter and I noticed that you described the latest Midleton releases as ‘pure pot still’ in your byline.

While the term ‘pure pot still’ has been the custom and practice of the Irish whiskey industry for, oh let me see, 200 odd years, it would appear that the TTB has taken umbrage with usage of the term ‘pure’ as it pertains to food and beverages.

This came to a head a few years back when we introduced Redbreast 15 to the US at which time we were obliged by the TTB to drop the prefix ‘pure’.

Arising from this, we opted to use the more industry (and arguably consumer) friendly prefix, ‘single’ to designate that the whiskey was a pot still whiskey from a single distillery.  Therefore, if you pick up a bottle of Redbreast 15 you will notice that the label reads ‘single’ rather than ‘pure’.

As a consequence, all of our new pot still releases are now described as ‘Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey’.

Redbreast 12 is still marketed in the US as a ‘pure pot still’ but this has been permitted under a grandfather ruling.  I should note that as part of a packaging upgrade project currently underway on Redbreast 12, we will in time transition all labels over to the new descriptor ‘single pot still’.

In truth, the TTB may have done us a favour by encouraging us to adopt a more widely recognised frame of reference and indeed this will be enshrined in new industry regulation which in underway under the auspices of the Irish Spirits Association.

Slainte
Brendan Buckley

Thanks Brendan for the update and clarification!

Category: Irish whiskey,Marketing Tags: , 35 Comments

January 26th, 2011

Review: Bunnahabhain, 12 year old

John Hansell

Bunnahabhain, 12 year old, 46.3%, $53

The new version, at a higher proof and not chill-filtered. That helped — especially on the palate — with greater texture and more well-defined flavors. But the flavors are essentially the same: nutty, toffee, light molasses, vanilla fudge, with delicate fruit (citrus, dark berries) and a hint of brine and smoke. Very comforting. Extra points for versatility — this whisky will accommodate many moods and situations.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 29 Comments

January 25th, 2011

Review: Kilchoman (Summer 2010 Release)

John Hansell

Kilchoman (Summer 2010 Release), 46%, $70

This young distillery’s fourth release, aged entirely in bourbon barrels. (This is the first one available in the U.S.) The two previous releases that I tasted and reviewed (the inaugural release and the Autumn 2009 release) were finished in sherry casks. I miss the sherry, to be honest. I think it softened the whisky, added a new dimension, and perhaps even masked some of the youth. Still, this is a very nice effort: brisk, vibrant, and bracing, with plenty of raw peat smoke and tar, along with pear, citrus, vanilla, licorice root, bourbon barrel char, clove, bitter chocolate, and suggestions of olive brine and high-end mescal.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 47 Comments

January 24th, 2011

Review: Signatory (Distilled at Aberlour), 20 year old

John Hansell

Signatory (Distilled at Aberlour), 20 year old, 1990 vintage, (Cask No. 101777), 56.1%, $110

Matured in a bourbon hogshead. Floral nose. Soft, creamy, and elegant, with honeyed malt, custard, subtle butterscotch, and delicate fruit (orange, peach) peppered with spice (powdered vanilla, nutmeg). Well-balanced, gently dry, and easy drinking. A charming whisky (for a lazy Sunday afternoon, perhaps?)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 89

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 2 Comments

January 21st, 2011

Review: Connemara Turf Mor

John Hansell

One thing for sure: this will be a very polarizing whiskey. My guess is that you will either like it or loathe it.

Connemara Turf Mor, 58%, $80

Connemara is the peated Irish whiskey from the Cooley distillery, and this one is their (and Ireland’s) smokiest offering yet. This is the first time I ever detected dung (albeit subtly) in a whiskey — and only on the nose, thankfully. It’s curiously intriguing. The style of peat used, along with the youth of this whiskey, has a distinct impact of the whiskey’s flavor. It’s sweet and smoky, which works well. Throw in some bacon fat, diesel oil smoke (like at a boat dock), anise, ginger, honeyed malt, barley, lime, and pear. Underneath all that peat lies what seems like a fairly young whisky, because it is very brisk and vibrant, but not excessively so. Bonus points for distinctiveness.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: Irish whiskey,New Releases,Reviews Tags: , 28 Comments

January 20th, 2011

Review: GlenDronach “Grandeur”

John Hansell

GlenDronach Grandeur, 31 year old, 45.8%, $700

The new ultra-mature release, following its 33 year old predecessor (bottled by previous owners). It’s nice to see the higher ABV, given that the 33 year old was only 40%. Very soothing. Quite deep on the nose and viscous (almost sappy) on the palate, with gobs of juicy oak and old oak (its age is obvious but not imposing), dark raisin, black raspberry, orange marmalade, roasted nuts, and freshly roasted coffee beans. All of this is peppered with cinnamon, ginger, and charcoal. Polished leather on the finish. I like that it’s sherried, and the sherry is kept in balance. Those of you who liked the 33 year old will also enjoy this one (assuming you can afford it).

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 94

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 7 Comments

January 19th, 2011

Review: A.D. Rattray (distilled at Bowmore), 18 year old

John Hansell

A. D. Rattray (distilled at Bowmore), 18 year old (Cask #2075), 53.5%, $100

The fruit (orange marmalade, tangerine, fresh pineapple) is nearly as dominant as the leafy smoke. Sweet notes of nutty caramel, honeyed barley, toffee, and nougat round out the palate. Ginger, cinnamon, telicherry pepper, tobacco, and ash play a supporting role. Lingering fruity, smoky finish. For those who like sherried Islay whiskies.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: , 5 Comments

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