December 26th, 2010

What does John know, really?

John Hansell

Well, to be honest, I know that I’m not a great whisky writer. I read stuff by Michael Jackson (may he rest in peace), Jim Murray, Dave Broom, and more like them in Malt Advocate magazine and they just amaze me. They, are great whisky writers.

I also know that I can’t describe whiskies as eloquently and colorfully as the best ones. (I refer you to the names above once again. They are all brilliant at what they do.)

I’m not crazy about this blog’s name, “What Does John Know?” because it comes across as sounding egotistical–to the point where I am becoming increasingly embarrassed by it. Don’t be surprised if you see it changed sometime soon. It’s really just the Malt Advocate magazine blog, and I am only one part of a great team of people. (But most of you knew that already.)

I feel that I am just a passionate whisky enthusiast, like many of you. The only difference is that I started this great journey thirty years ago, so maybe I just got a head start? That forced me to blaze some trails (and I have the scars to prove it). If I have made your whisky journey more pleasant and easier to navigate, then this is much more than I have ever envisioned and I am a better person for it.

I know that I try to be honest and fair, walking a very thin line promoting this great whisky industry while at the same time being a voice for you, the whisky enthusiast. 

Sometimes I feel like I just can’t win. I am accused by some whisky consumers of being biased because Malt Advocate accepts advertising, while at the same time I get chided by some people in the whisky industry for (occasionally, and only when I feel it is warranted) being critical about their whiskies or their practices.

To be completely honest, putting myself in this position is sometimes very stressful and emotionally draining (because I really do care about what people think and say). I have no intention of compromising my principles, but I am also aware of the price I am paying for it personally.

As much as I love whisky, it isn’t the most important thing in my life. Family, friendship, and health (both physical and spiritual) always come first. Maybe that’s why I know I will never be known as the world’s leading whisky expert. To be that person, I would have to sacrifice the other things I feel are more important. I’m just not willing to do that, and I’m okay with that.

Speaking of those more important things, that’s what I’ll be focusing on the rest of this year. I want to thank you all for taking time out of your busy schedule to join me here, and I wish you all a very happy, healthy and prosperous 2011.

I’ll see you right here again next week.

Category: Opinions 56 Comments

December 24th, 2010

Coming in January: A whisky review every day

John Hansell

Every weekday, that is. I’ve been reviewing a lot of new whiskies, but I haven’t had a chance to post them up here. So, starting Monday, January 3rd (make that Tuesday, January 4th–I need a day to get organized from being out of the office for the holidays), I’ll post one review up each day for the entire month.

I hope this gives you something to look forward to. (And don’t worry, I’m sure I’ll find some other things to talk about too. My posts won’t just be reviews.)

Have a great Christmas everyone!

Category: Administrative,Opinions,Reviews 20 Comments

December 21st, 2010

Drinking anything special over the holidays?

John Hansell

I’m going to open up something special, like I do every year. (I’ll have a separate post on that soon.)

How about you? Please do share your good fortune with us. What will you be drinking?

Category: Opinions,Special events 108 Comments

December 20th, 2010

Guest post: review of “Whisky in Your Pocket”

John Hansell

Today, Jonny McCormick offers up another book review for us on WDJK.

Whisky in Your Pocket  (by Wallace Milroy and Neil Wilson)
Published by Waverley Books | 188 pages

Having chalked up greater than 300,000 sales internationally since it was first published over a quarter of a century ago, this book based on the original Malt Whisky Almanac, was once an ideal platform for a journey into whisky. However, it has been 12 years since the last revision and the world of whisky is now a very different place. The authors’ objectives are to hook a readership of new whisky fans, which they see as the kind of customer at their local supermarket standing bewildered in front of the choices on offer. It’s a return to first principles, and explanation of the basics, they say. Picture what that supermarket whisky shopper would make of this book.

The book covers Scotch whisky and the Bushmills distillery in Northern Ireland, so not UK whisky, not Irish whiskey, nor American, Canadian, Japanese or any of the other New World whisky producing countries. The introduction has many stories to tell but raises many points of confusion rather than providing a concise opening. The first territory map is puzzling with the colour shading indicating whisky regions in Northern Britain although to the newcomer, it would appear that the Isle of Lewis is a distilling powerhouse whereas the dab of pink indicates a small craft distillery in Bushmills. The first single malt whisky label in the book is a Brora Rare Malts…I don’t know about you, but my supermarket hasn’t been the best place to find Brora for many, many years.

However, there is a good chapter for beginners covering the definitions of what can be labelled as blended whisky, single malt, blended malt, blended grain and single grain and the bottle illustrations are helpful. As a newcomer’s book, a glossary of terms would have been helpful especially for the chapter on production but I’m not sure the supermarket shopper really needs this information.

The main text is divided into regions with greater coverage given to active distilleries over closed and mothballed sites with each page featuring a distillery, address, production statistics and the standard core bottling. Each chapter section opens with a well-pitched overview of the region or whisky category. The pronunciation guide is good for novices, but not required quite so extensively…. do that many people struggle to say Dalmore or Ardbeg correctly? The printed tasting notes are actually reproductions of the companies own notes the authors admit, so disappointingly, there has been no attempt to rate or provide an independent opinion and the style varies between entries. Each page contains information on annual output, number of wash stills, water source and malt source that quite simply, newcomers will not find helpful to discern quality or guide early purchases. Another concern is that the UK prices in the book may date quickly, most notable with the tax rises coming in 2011.

When you are starting out, you need clear pointers. What you really want to know is; What is the good stuff? What should I try? What should I buy? This book doesn’t make it easy to answer those questions and whilst in earlier incarnations it played its role, these days a goggle at a search engine will likely be much more informative. My expectations of what information should be written into a pocket book on whisky may differ from the authors, but putting myself into the shoes of a whisky novice, it throws into stark relief just how successfully Ian Buxton’s 101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die book has captured the mood conducive to entering the world of whisky that we share.

What book would you recommend to a friend who is just getting a taste for whisky?

Category: Administrative,Book Reviews,Writers 3 Comments

December 17th, 2010

Guest post: review of “Malt Whisky Yearbook (2011 Edition)

John Hansell

Today, Jonny McCormick, a  Malt Advocate features writer, shares his review of  Malt Whisky Yearbook 2011, edited by Ingvar Ronde. (Oh, and we also sell this book here, in our Marketplace, in case you are interested in getting a copy.)

Malt Whisky Yearbook 2011 (edited by Ingvar Ronde)
Published by MagDig Media Limited | 274 pages

For the past few years, this annual has been essential reading for the whisky fraternity. An assembly of essayists bookend a hugely informative guide to the whisky distilleries of the world crammed with facts and statistics; this is a great resource no matter what you may already know about whisky. Only this publication and Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible have created a role for yearly whisky publications and as each year passes, there seems a growing confidence and conviction with the Malt Whisky Yearbook.

This year, Charlie MacLean presents a thoroughly researched article on the dynamic and substantial whisky market in India from the modern day whisky baron Vijay Mallya of United Spirits Ltd, to the high taxes levied against imported Whiskies and the successful degree of marketing and promotion that operates despite the alcohol ban.

Dominic Roskrow revisits repackaging, rebranding and relaunches.

Hans Offringa takes a colourful look at the development of whisky labels including the legal necessities likening the label to a passport for each whisky.

Ian Wisniewski tackles the complexities of successful mashing with enough detail and factual science to keep you going for another year.

Ian Buxton’s piece reviews the polarized views expressed in the light of Chivas Bros “Age Matters” campaign with a balanced and highly entertaining essay including the steadying, cogent arguments proffered by Serge Valentin.

Gavin D. Smith looks at what factors influence cask maturation from wood provenance and the flavour contributions from American, European or Japanese oak, cask size and re-casking maturing whisky to improve the development of new flavours.

Chris Bunting (aka our man in Japan as far as the whisky blogosphere goes) writes about the reversal of fortunes for big brand whiskies in the domestic Japanese market, the optimism in Japanese craft distilling and the slow but eagerly anticipated growth of exports to the USA and Europe (through the efforts of Number One Drinks and La Maison du Whisky, Paris).

The distillery section is dominated by single malt Scotch and Irish distilleries but each year, the list is juggled to reflect active distilleries with a condensed section for closed distilleries and new start-ups.  Each page is combed for updates, new releases and developments are added with a product shot whilst lighter “Meet the Manager” interviews are interspersed between the A-Z list.

The world whiskies section grows larger each year with a deluge of new entries including nine for the USA. If you aren’t sated by now, the yellow pages examine the business of whisky with “The Whisky Year That Was” editorial, statistics and histograms covering consumption, exports and market share together with a list of 500 new whisky releases.

However, these data are fascinating particularly if your trade depends on it, yet most whisky consumers probably don’t give a hoot about forecasted growth in Eastern Europe or Latin America but global distribution and the state of each company does matter, as it ultimately influences what whisky is in your glass.

Other than becoming a Whisk(e)y Yearbook and embracing bourbon and rye, there is little this book doesn’t do. I hope I’m preaching to the converted, but if you’ve not explored the Malt Whisky Yearbook by now, you really ought to get on board.

Category: Book Reviews,Guest Blogger,Uncategorized,Writers 4 Comments

December 16th, 2010

Blending with the stars? Whisky Idol?

John Hansell

Is it me, or does it seem like every whisky company (and their brother) has some sort of competition going on these days?

You’ll find a new one with Compass Box and Master of Malt here. Glenrothes has one here. And here’s one from Macallan. I also saw this one by Jura. Bushmills had a big one which ended. (Can’t find the link to that one anymore.) And didn’t Old Pulteney have one?

I’m sure there are others too. Have you heard of any I didn’t mention?

I’m not sure what to make of it all. (Perhaps it’s all good?) There just seems to be a lot of them these days.

Category: competitions,Opinions 14 Comments

December 13th, 2010

Disappointments in whisky in 2010

John Hansell

I’m looking back on 2010. Indeed, there’s plenty to be thankful for. But I didn’t get a lot of sleep last night and I’m feeling a little grumpy, so I thought I would save the “giving thanks” post for a happier time and focus on my disappointments today.

I can think of several things that disappointed me this year.

Social media abuse

The first one was the regular misuse and abuse of social media by whisky company employees. On several occasions this year, I discovered whisky companies (from the smallest to the largest) artificially pumping up their brands with their “anonymous” comments here on WDJK. I addressed each abuse as I discovered them, so I am not going to rehash it here. (Plus,  some of the companies I caught now have implemented policies to ensure this doesn’t happen again.)

But the fact remains that this kind of stuff is going on. And if it’s happening here, then it’s happening on other social media sites too. It’s not right, and the whisky companies should know better.

False or misleading statements

A second thing disappointed me: False statements by whisky companies. I’ve addressed this here earlier this year. For example, if it’s NOT your first new whisky in more than 50 years, then why are you telling everyone that it is? Sure it sounds nice, and it’s a great marketing tool. I’m even thrilled that you came out with a new whisky, and I like it too! But it’s not your first new whisky in more than 50 years, and it shouldn’t have been promoted as such.

Paying to play

Another thing that disappointed me: How many times must I say that you can’t pay for editorial exposure in Malt Advocate ? Just last week, someone in the business asked me how we determine what gets written in our New Products section. The person wanted to know if they had to pay to get one of their whiskies written up there. No, you just have to send us a press release and a review sample. (I guess I have to say it a few more times, which is why I am listing it here today.)

Premature bottling

And now to the last one. This one isn’t as much disappointing as it is sad. So many craft distillers are putting out new whiskeys right now. For most,  the potential of the whiskeys are there, but they’re being released too soon. They’re just immature, and they need more aging. (Okay, some of them probably won’t get better no matter how long they are aged in wood, but I think this is the minority, not the majority.)

Look, I understand the need for some of these small craft distillers to get returns on their investments to pay mounting bills. (And I am also aware that young whiskeys can be great in cocktails, but I am speaking from the point of view of a whiskey drinker here, not a mixologist.) I would rather you make gin or vodka or unaged rum and let your whiskey mature a little longer, than sell your whisky before it is mature.

What do you think?

How about you? Do you agree or disagree with me? And please explain.

Finally, is there anything that disappointed you this year? If so, what?

Thanks!

P.S. I promise to not be this grumpy every morning.

Category: Marketing,Microdistilleries,Opinions 125 Comments

December 9th, 2010

Which distillery has impressed you the most this year?

John Hansell

We are beginning our 17th annual Malt Advocate Whisky Awards research and review. (The awards will be announced here at WDJK in February, and then in Malt Advocate magazine in March.)

One of the categories is “Distillery of the Year.” Naturally, we already have a “short list.”  I thought it might make a good discussion topic here too!

So, let’s hear your thoughts. Which distillery has impressed you the most in 2010? And why?

It can be any distillery, from any country. (For the official Malt Advocate award, the distillery’s product must be sold in the U.S. in the 2010 calendar year.)

Category: Awards,Opinions 117 Comments

December 8th, 2010

Miscellaneous ramblings

John Hansell

This is a crazy time of the year for me. I’m getting review samples of so many new products. I’ve been really busy the past month, and I haven’t had the chance to review many of them lately. But that’s about to change. I have them lined up and ready to go, and I’ll be working my way through them over the coming weeks. Stay tuned for that.

On Monday I received samples of the new Diageo Classic Malts Special Releases. Unfortunately, all the caps were loose and most of them leaked. :( . (Thankfully, replacements are on their way.) I have a really nice, affordable Mackillop’s Choice Mortlach which I’ll be reviewing and telling you about. And I recently received three new bourbons: Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 year old, Evan Williams Single Barrel 2001 vintage, and the Early Times bourbon coming out in January. I also have more “branded” blended Irish whiskeys coming out of Cooley than you can shake a stick at. I’m hoping to work my way through some of them too.

It’s also the time we begin thinking about our annual Malt Advocate Whisky Awards, which I will announce here first on WDJK in February, like I did last year. This is always exciting and fun, but it takes up A LOT of my time.

Now to some administrative items. For some reason, I can’t upload images right now to any of my social media sites (WDJK, Twitter, Facebook) from my laptop. So, bear with me until I get this issue resolved. Posts here won’t look as pretty in the interim without pictures.

And finally, I actually had to delete a post a few days ago. It was a post from about a year ago mentioning the introduction of Johnny Walker Double Black to select Travel Retail outlets. Normally, comments to any of my posts wind down after a week or two, and only rarely do I get any comments after that. How ironic that I continued to get regular comments by new people throughout the year saying how great this whisky is. Just this past week, I had five! That was when I decided that enough is enough! I canned the post.

I have to go, but maybe I’ll have more ramblings at a later date if you find them interesting.

Category: Opinions,Ramblings Tags: 40 Comments

December 7th, 2010

Is this you?

John Hansell

We are tinkering around with the Malt Advocate media kit, and I was reading the summary of a survey we conducted a few years back describing what our readers drink. Here’s the breakdown.

What types of whiskies do you drink?

Single malts        92.5%

Bourbon              63%

Irish                       48.5%

Blended Scotch  46%

Canadian             16.6%

What other alcoholic beverages do you enjoy?

Beer                      83%

Wine                     85%

Vodka                   42%

Rum                       39%

Tequila                 38%

Gin                         34%

Cognac                 33%

Other liqueurs   29%

How about you? Does this describe you? It describes me very well, except for the beer and the vodka. I drink more beer than anything else (which probably explains my gradually expanding waistline), and don’t drink as much vodka as I do rum and tequila.

The next time we conduct our survey, we will have to include categories for Japanese whiskies, Indian whisky, craft distillers, and maybe a few others.

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Marketing,Surveys 39 Comments

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