November 30th, 2010

Review: Lombard “Speyside” 8 year old

John Hansell

Lombard Speyside, 8 year old, 43%, $30
Quite fragrant and fairly sweet (but not cloyingly so), rich with nutty toffee, nougat, and bright summer fruits. Clean, gently sweet finish. Well rounded, nicely matured for its age and, at $30, a good value these days. A versatile whisky to keep in the drinks cabinet; it’s enjoyable enough sipping neat or with a splash of water, but (at this price) you won’t cringe if your guests drink it on the rocks or use it as a mixer.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 82

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 3 Comments

November 30th, 2010

Review: Jewels of Scotland “Dailuaine” 1973 vintage

John Hansell

Jewels of Scotland (distilled at Dailuaine), 1973 vintage, 31 year old, 50%, $200
A robust Speysider — and very tactile too (clinging to the palate), but with no excessive oak. Vanilla and some dark chocolate notes along with coating (yet ironically dry-ish) honey notes. But its biggest flavor note is citrus — particularly lemon, along with some tangerine and a hint of pineapple — which helps to cut through the thickness. Good depth, with dried spice, polished oak, and a wisp of smoke on the finish. (Bottled in 2004, but only recently released to the U.S.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 5 Comments

November 29th, 2010

Top 10 rated whiskies in the new issue of Malt Advocate

John Hansell

Here’s a sneak peek  of the top 10 rated whiskies in the upcoming issue of Malt Advocate magazine (the Winter 2010 issue). Most have been reviewed here already, but I thought it would be helpful if you had them all organized in one post.

96 Redbreast, 12 year old, 40%, $43
Very elegant, complex, and stylish. Honeyed and silky in texture, with toffee, toasted marshmallow, nougat, maple syrup, banana bread, and a hint of toasted coconut. Bright fruit and golden raisin blend in nicely with the layers of sweetness. Impeccable balance and very approachable. Classic Irish whiskey!

95 Compass Box Flaming Heart (10th Anniversary bottling), 48.9%, $105
A marriage of three different single malts, aged in American and French oak. This whisky shows the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery (when properly done). Vibrant, with a complex array of fruit (orchard fruit, sultana), sweetness (light toffee, marzipan, honeyed malt), spice (creamy vanilla, mocha, warming pepper), smoke (tar, smoked olive, coal), and lesser notes of toasted almond and beach pebbles. More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance. Well played!

95 Buffalo Trace Experimental Collection, 1995 Vintage, “American Oak Chips Seasoned,” 45%, $47/375ml
Surprisingly light and fresh for a 15 year old whiskey. Crisply spiced, with cinnamon, evergreen, vanilla, anise, and teaberry. Hints of dried fruit, kissed with light honey and a wisp of smoke. Balanced and clean throughout, and very drinkable. An excellent whiskey!

95 Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve, 40%, $70
Perhaps the finest Canadian whisky I have ever tasted. Creamy and seamless from beginning to end. Gently sweet, with orange creamsicle, marzipan, sultana, praline, maple syrup, and a hint of coconut macaroon. Forty Creek whiskies have always been very good, but none have ever had the right stuff to reach classic status. Until now, that is. An outstanding, very distinctive whisky!

94 Highland Park, 1970 vintage, 48%, £2,250
This limited edition bottling consists of a marriage of both European and American oak. Still lively for its age, and beautifully balanced. Bountiful golden fruit (sultana, pineapple upside down cake, tangerine, overripe nectarine) balanced by soothing, creamy vanilla. A peppering of dried spice, chamomile tea, toasted oak, cigar box, and subtle smoke round out the palate. Soft and seductive. (Not available in the U.S.)

94 Knob Creek Single Barrel, 9 year old, 60%, $40
This new single barrel expression of Knob Creek tastes very similar to the original “small batch” Knob Creek (when brought down to the same alcohol level). If anything, it’s slightly drier, more elegant, not as heavy on the palate, and more sophisticated — but I am reaching here. The similarity is a good thing, because I really enjoy the original expression. Keeping in mind that no two barrels are exactly alike, your decision to purchase the single barrel might just come down to whether you want to pay a little more for a higher strength version, and whether knowing that it might taste a little different than the standard small batch bottling excites you. This is a stylish, big, broad-shouldered bourbon with a thick, sweet foundation (nutty toffee, pot still rum, maple syrup) peppered with spice (cinnamon, but also vanilla and evergreen) and dried fruit. Dry, warming, resinous finish. (Incidentally, I would rate the small batch within a point or two, and the tasting notes would be very similar.)

93 Parker’s Heritage Collection (2010 release), 10 year old, 63.9%, $80
Soft, sweet, and very smooth. Richly textured layers of caramel, toffee, vanilla fudge, nougat, maple syrup, and rhum agricole. Blackberry, date nut bread, cinnamon, subtle cocoa, and nutmeg add complexity. Clean, polished, and perilously drinkable. A delicious wheated bourbon! (Not quite the complexity of the 2009 William Larue Weller (a benchmark wheated bourbon which I rated a 96), but getting close.

93 High West Straight Rye Whiskey, 12 year old, 46%, $50/375ml
A bottling from only five barrels of 95% rye whiskey produced at the former Seagram’s distillery in Indiana. It’s the American whiskey equivalent of drinking Ardbeg Supernova. Powerful and invigorating are words that come to mind. Crisp mint, warming cinnamon, dried citrus, cocoa, roasted nuts, and subtle botanicals are soothed by caramel, molasses, and honeyed orchard fruit. Brisk, bracing, spicy finish. The notes are clean, and the whiskey’s not just a one-trick “rye” pony. The sweetness balances the rye spice quite nicely. If you just can’t get enough rye in your whiskey, then this one’s for you. (Available only at the High West Distillery in Park City, Utah.)

93 Caribou Crossing, Single Barrel, 40%, $50
Those of you who think Canadian whiskies are thin and bland should give this one a try. No, it’s not a new concept, like Forty Creek. It’s still very much a “traditional” Canadian. But when compared to most Canadian whiskies, it’s richer, creamier, and velvety smooth. The flavors are straightforward — primarily vanilla, with some crème brûlée, toasted marshmallow, tangerine, peaches and cream, and gentle rye spice — but they are clean and well-balanced. A delicious, lighter-style whisky.

92 Duncan Taylor “NC2” (distilled at Aberlour), 16 year old, 46%, $80
This whisky packs a lot of clean, complex, and well-balanced flavors. It features a creamy, layered, malty-sweet foundation (vanilla, caramel, toffee) chock full of bright fruit (golden raisin, honeyed orchard fruit, currant), rounded out by firm, dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint) that dances on the palate. Long, warming, spicy finish. Nicely done!

Category: Bourbon,Canadian whisky,Malt Advocate Mag,New Releases,Reviews Tags: , , , , , , , , , 56 Comments

November 22nd, 2010

Giving thanks

John Hansell

With Thanksgiving just a few days away, I want to send a short note to thank all of you for taking time out of your busy schedule to check in here.

I would like to extend an extra thank you for those of you who take the time to comment. Your participation makes WDJK a much more useful site. I really appreciate it, and I’m sure everyone else does too.

Category: Administrative,Opinions 34 Comments

November 18th, 2010

Drinking anything fun on Thanksgiving?

John Hansell

If so, do tell. What is it?

And if you haven’t thought about it yet, now’s the time. It’s less than a week away. When you figure it out, let us know.

Category: Holidays,Opinions Tags: 65 Comments

November 18th, 2010

Guest Reviews: Focus on GlenDronach with Dominic Roskrow

John Hansell

This is one of a series of single cask, cask strength offerings from GlenDronach, most of which have been matured in oloroso sherry casks and covering about 25 years of maturation. The variety is amazing. – Dominic Roskrow

GlenDronach, 1990 vintage, 20 year old, oloroso cask #2621, 57.9%, £80
If every fan of sherried whisky has a favorite GlenDronach then this is a long way down the road to being mine. It has a dusty dried orange peel, powdery, and perfumey nose, a soft and sweet round palate with a dark chocolate, tangerine, and pink grapefruit heart, and a balanced and gentle finish. This was probably once a hollerin’ maned lion of a malt, but it’s grown old gracefully and it now purrs and growls beautifully. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 90

GlenDronach, 1991 vintage, 18 year old, sherry puncheon cask #3182, 51.7%, £71
The variety between this series of single casks is quite extraordinary. This has a soft and light nose with some mint and liqueured fruit, and a big, rich, and impressive taste with anise and menthol, glacé cherries, and traces of mint. The finish is warming and full, with the mint and cherry theme carrying through to a slightly peppery conclusion. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

GlenDronach, 1971 vintage, 39 year old, oloroso cask #489, 48.8%, £380
This whisky is doddery and on the edge, bordering on feeble. You have to look hard to find its spark and fire, but if you search for it, it is there. The nose is light and savory, with crushed fall leaves and chestnut on the nose. On the palate, there are traces of licorice stick, a touch of cumin, anise, and a creamier, less bitter chocolate note than some other samples. It finishes with traces of mandarin, but overall the sun is setting and the spirited and energetic man of old seems to be getting bitter. Overall, though, still pretty impressive for its age. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

GlenDronach, 1989 vintage, 20 year old, pedro ximenez puncheon cask #3315, 53.2%, £80
This is the most seasonal of this batch of GlenDronachs, with a nose of rich stewed prunes and fermenting fruit in an orchard at harvest time. There is some anise and cherry lozenge in the mix, too, and the palate is complex, with plums, stewed fruits, and damson jam. The finish is drying, dusty, and spiky. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 83

GlenDronach, 1978 vintage, 31 year old, oloroso cask #1040, 51.2%, £185
No doubt about it, we’re at the furthest outpost of GlenDronach’s territory here, and this particular cask has waved the white flag. It has a dense, sappy, and nutty nose which is very savory and not particularly attractive. But thankfully there’s more to welcome you on the palate, with some rich orange and red fruit and sweet candy providing balance to the savory notes, and gentle oak and hazelnuts also getting a look in. The finish is woody and pruney. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 82

GlenDronach, 1993 vintage, 17 year old, oloroso sherry cask #529, 60.5%, £67
This isn’t the easiest to fall for. It’s stewed, swampy, a big, feisty, take-no-prisoners whisky with oxtail soup, spicy tomato and meat broth on the nose, then black treacle, praline, cayenne, and paprika. A rootsy prune juice is part of the finish. Challenging and tough. (Dominic Roskrow)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 80

Category: Reviews Tags: 11 Comments

November 16th, 2010

Early Times becomes a bourbon with new release

John Hansell

I just got this from my contact at Brown-Forman.

“We’d like to confirm some of the rumors going around regarding Early Times. The iconic Early Times brand is returning to its roots as a bourbon beginning in January 2011. The new brand, called Early Times 354 Bourbon (354 for the original permit number for the distillery) will be bottled at 80 proof. After an absence in the US market of nearly 30 years, Early Times 354 Bourbon joins Early Times Kentucky Whisky in an expansion of the presence of the famous Early Times brand at retail.”

This is good news. I’m glad to hear it. Details to follow.

Category: Bourbon,Breaking news Tags: 14 Comments

November 15th, 2010

The Bill Lumsden interview

John Hansell

As I mentioned here, I had lunch with Dr. Bill Lumsden the day before WhiskyFest New York.  Bill is the Head of Distilling and Whisky Creation for The Glenmorangie Company. That includes Ardbeg and Glenmorangie.

I asked you what questions you would like me to ask Bill.  Here they are, with his answers.

Rumor has it there are no old stocks of Ardbeg. True?

Untrue. We have a limited amount. That’s why we stopped bottling Lord of the Isles. But we still have some. Watch this space.

Is Glenmorangie PLC going to buy a craft distiller in the U.S. like some other Scottish whisky companies are doing?

It’s very unlikely. If anything, there will be more focus on the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, which the company owns.

Which closed/mothballed distillery would you like to see active again?

Rosebank. It has always been a personal favorite, and I have several bottles saved for future enjoyment.

What made Ardbeg and Glenmorangie decide now to certify bottlings as Kosher? Any plans of new certified releases in the future?

We realized that a lot of Jewish drinkers were not drinking our products becuase they didn’t know if they could. We certified Glenmorangie Original (10 year old), Glenmorangie Astar and Ardbeg 10 year old for this reason.

Any new special bottlings like Rollercoaster for 2011?

Yes, there will be new bottlings. John, when time gets closer, you will an exclusive peak. I’ll just say this for now. In 2011, we’ll release a wacky new Ardbeg. In  2012, we plan on releasing an old-fashioned, traditional Ardbeg.

We’ll also have a lovely old new Glenmorangie, perhaps around Christmas time. Look for a new release that I am calling the “grandson of Sonnalta” in the Private Edition series. Plus, you know how you and I have discussed how much we like Sassicaia wine from Tuscany? Well…there’s a clue to something new in the future.

Will Supernova become a standard release in the Ardbeg range?

That’s less clear cut.

Are you selling any casks to independent bottlers?

Only our Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottlings.

An plans on doing your own floor maltings again?

I have had the same dreams (he said with a twinkle in his eye). If that ever were to happen, we probably would bottle the whisky made from our floor maltings exclusively, and not blend it in with whisky from malt that we have brought in, like the way Laphroaig does it.

Would you ever identify on the bottle when you use caramel coloring?

We do it when it is required. We are not trying to hide the fact that we use it, and we are trying to minimize it’s use. We only use it for “standardization” (to keep the color of a given whisky consistent). I would like to see it (caramel coloring) banned!

Can you give me in a sentence or two the house character of Glenmorangie?

It has a softness and silkiness on the palate, a sweet taste, and great finesse and complexity.

Will there be an Ardbeg 17 year old anytime soon?

Not anytime soon?

What’s the age of Glenmorangie Cellar 13?

It was a 10 year old. If you like this whisky, then you should try Astar, its spiritual successor.

Is your company going to be bought by Diageo?

This is very topical. I don’t know. It’s pointless worrying about it.

Will there be a Glenmorangie Signet-like Ardbeg anytime soon (i.e., using caramel and/or chocolate malt, etc.)

No, but we are always experimenting.

Thank you Bill!

Category: Interviews,Opinions,Scotch whisky Tags: , , 36 Comments

November 12th, 2010

Guest Review: World Whisky – Belgium

John Hansell

The Belgian Owl, 4 year old, 46%, €46
Distiller Etienne Bouillon and two partners, farmer Pierre Roberti and financier Luc Foubert established Belgian Owl in 2004 in the barley-growing region of Hesbay, pressing a 19th century Swiss ambulatory alembic into service. Bouillon studied with Jim McEwan at Bruichladdich, and The Belgian Owl shows something of the Laddie’s master distiller’s love of sweet spirit aged in first-fill American oak. Stir in some cream, sweet peach, guava, and mango and you have a lush palate. The youth is indicated by a little green almond, while there is a soft crunch of barley on the tongue. (Dave Broom)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 82

Category: Guest Blogger,Reviews,Uncategorized Tags: 1 Comment

November 11th, 2010

Guest Review: World Whisky – Australia

John Hansell

Sullivan’s Cove, Bourbon Cask HH0104, 60%, €95
Patrick Maguire, who now heads up Hobart’s Sullivan’s Cove distillery started work with Bill Lark before taking over Sullivan’s Cove in 2003. A French-design brandy still produces a very floral, sweet, and full-flavored spirit with notes of lime blossom and wood sap. It’s a bold distillate, but there’s sufficient sweetness and fragrant spice to balance.  (Dave Broom)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

Lark Single Cask LD126, 43%, €99
Although the Aussie whisky-making industry started in Tasmania, the distilling bug is spreading across the country. Small-scale the distilleries may be, but the use of brewer’s yeast, local peat (in Tasmania’s case), and wood sourced from the wine industry has immediately given Aussie whisky an identity of its own. Yes, it’s tiny, but every great new whisky, no matter where it is from, chips away at Scotch whisky’s hegemony. Tasmanian-based Bill Lark is the founding father of the modern Australian whisky industry. He uses local peat and ages in small casks — and only does single cask releases. This means that by the time a tasting note is written the whisky has gone, but here’s what I thought of one of them. There’s a glimpse of some fresh malt, but it is the heightened aromatics that are the most interesting here. Lark points to the yeast mix as the origin of this scent. His small stills, however, give a muscularity to the palate, while the oak is in balance.  (Dave Broom)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 84

Bakery Hill, Double Wood, 46%, $71
Tasmania may be setting itself up as the Speyside of Australia, but there are a growing number of distilleries on the mainland, such as Bakery Hill in Bayswater on the Dadenong foothills of Victoria, which was started by David Baker in 1999. Working with tall stills, his aim is to make a lightly fragrant spirit, and certainly that intense banana-like quality is there on nose and palate while the use of sherry casks adds a fruitcake and golden raisin depth.  (Dave Broom)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 82

Category: Guest Blogger,Reviews,Uncategorized Tags: , , 2 Comments

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