October 29th, 2010

Reviews: Penderyn Sherrywood and Peated

John Hansell

My week of new release reviews will conclude here with Penderyn’s Sherrywood and Peated whiskies.

Penderyn “Sherrywood,” (06/2008 release), 46%, $70
The original Penderyn is finished in Madeira casks. I like the original better (which I rated an 84), as it tastes more mature and the Madeira seems to dovetail better with the other flavors. Fruity (red raspberry, strawberry, banana), with underlying sweet notes (honeyed vanilla, caramel, a hint of butterscotch). Quick, clean finish. Maybe this whisky just needed a little more aging for everything to come together?

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 79

Penderyn “Peated” (12/2009 release), 46%, $70
My feelings here are the same as for the Sherrywood: it comes across as younger and less mature than the original Madeira wood finish version. This one has some peat smoke in the mix. Malty sweet (with some graham cracker, nougat, and hints of butterscotch), peppered with light smoke. Quick, lightly smoky finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 77

Category: New Releases,Reviews Tags: 4 Comments

October 28th, 2010

Review: The Black Grouse

John Hansell

The Black Grouse, 40%, $29
One might assume this to be just a smoky version of the standard Famous Grouse (with its honeyed malt, bright fruit, and floral demeanor). But, in addition to the enhanced smoke (which caringly adds a new dimension without smothering the other flavors), there also seems to be more malt body and oak spice in the mix, which I think takes Black Grouse to a higher level than Famous Grouse. The grain whisky contributes a “drinkability” component, making it a great introduction to smoky whiskies.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 30 Comments

October 27th, 2010

And now, something different: a long weekend of great wine!

John Hansell

The whisky (and beer) will have to wait for a few days. I also love wine. Plus, I think it has helped me be a better whisky writer.

My wife and I will be spending the next few days drinking some great wines and learning more about them at the New World Wine Experience, and we are very excited.

But no worries, I still have whisky reviews scheduled post Thursday and Friday. And I’ll be back diving into whiskies when I return.

Category: Opinions,Special events,Wine 3 Comments

October 27th, 2010

Review: Compass Box Flaming Heart

John Hansell

Compass Box Flaming Heart (10th Anniversary bottling), 48.9%, $105
A marriage of three different single malts, aged in American and French oak. This whisky shows the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery (when properly done). Vibrant, with a complex array of fruit (orchard fruit, sultana), sweetness (light toffee, marzipan, honeyed malt), spice (creamy vanilla, mocha, warming pepper), smoke (tar, smoked olive, coal), and lesser notes of toasted almond and beach pebbles. More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance. Well played!

I like this version (the third Flaming Heart release and second one brought to the U.S.) better than the last one imported here. I love the balance on this one, all the way through to the finish. (For more information on this expression of Flaming Heart, here’s the fact sheet from Compass Box.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95

Category: New Releases,Reviews Tags: 13 Comments

October 26th, 2010

Review: Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve

John Hansell

Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve, 40%, $70
One of the finest Canadian whiskies I have ever tasted. Creamy and seamless from beginning to end. Gently sweet, with orange creamsicle, marzipan, sultana, praline, maple syrup, and a hint of coconut macaroon. Forty Creek whiskies have always been very good, but none have ever had the right stuff to reach classic status. Until now, that is. An outstanding, very distinctive whisky!

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 95

Category: Canadian whisky,New Releases,Reviews Tags: 26 Comments

October 25th, 2010

Review: Knob Creek Single Barrel

John Hansell

This is the time of the year when many new whiskies are introduced. So, all week I’m going to be posting up reviews of new releases. The ratings range from 95 to 76.

Knob Creek Single Barrel, 9 year old, 60%, $40
This new single barrel expression of Knob Creek tastes very similar to the original “small batch” Knob Creek (when brought down to the same alcohol level). If anything, it’s slightly drier, more elegant, not as heavy on the palate, and more sophisticated — but I am reaching here. The similarity is a good thing, because I really enjoy the original expression. Keeping in mind that no two barrels are exactly alike, your decision to purchase the single barrel might just come down to whether you want to pay a little more for a higher strength version, and whether knowing that it might taste a little different than the standard small batch bottling excites you. This is a stylish, big, broad-shouldered bourbon with a thick, sweet foundation (nutty toffee, pot still rum, maple syrup) peppered with spice (cinnamon, but also vanilla and evergreen) and dried fruit. Dry, warming, resinous finish. (Incidentally, I would rate the small batch a point or two lower, and the tasting notes would be similar.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 94

Category: New Releases,Reviews Tags: 15 Comments

October 22nd, 2010

Compass Box Whisky celebrates 10th Anniversary tomorrow

John Hansell

They’re celebrating with the a new (third) release of Flaming Heart (pictured on the right). They’re also holding a series of 1o year retrospective tastings.

Congrats to John Glaser and the rest of the crew at Compass Box Whisky. Let’s all toast to their continued success tomorrow by raising a glass of one of their fine whiskies. (Mine will be a wee dram of the new Flaming Heart which, by the way, is wonderful.)

Category: Independent Bottler,Scotch whisky,Special events Tags: 21 Comments

October 22nd, 2010

Kentucky Distillers’ Association has a new website

John Hansell

And there’s a lot of good information on bourbon there. Not all of the bourbon distillers are a member of of the KDA (Buffalo Trace, for example), but it’s still a good resource. Check it out here. Their formal press release follows.

Kentucky Distillers’ Association
Unveils New Website

FRANKFORT, Ky. – The Kentucky Distillers’ Association today introduced a redesigned website featuring in-depth information about the state’s signature Bourbon industry, tasting notes on its members’ premium brands and details on their programs to fight underage drinking.

The site is www.kybourbon.com. It was designed by thevimarcgroup of Louisville.

KDA President Eric Gregory said the new design is simple to navigate and inviting to use. “Our goal is to make the website a vital tool for anyone seeking key information about this important industry,” he said.

“And it’s all there – from the latest news to steps on how to hold your own Bourbon tasting.”

In addition, visitors can read the first-ever economic impact study of Kentucky’s distilling industry; a glossary of Bourbon and distilling terms; a list of KDA member Bourbon brands; links to the KDA’s Kentucky Bourbon Trail® tour and much more.

In approaching the new design, Gregory said Vimarc made sure the site would be a strong resource for distributing information, educating the public about the industry and communicating the latest news and messages from KDA member distilleries.

Vimarc also chose fresh colors and typography that provide a warm contrast to the vintage tones of the distilleries and a scrolling bar that showcases iconic images from each of the KDA’s members.

The KDA, founded in 1880, is charged with promoting, protecting and representing the state’s distilling industry. Its members include Beam Global Spirits & Wine (Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark), Brown-Forman, Diageo North America, Four Roses, Heaven Hill and Wild Turkey.

“We’re excited about today’s launch and are looking forward to adding more features in the coming months,” Gregory said. “We invite everyone to check back often and pass along any comments or suggestions.”

Category: American whiskey,Bourbon,Marketing,Websites Tags: 6 Comments

October 21st, 2010

Burn Stewart whiskies now un-chillfiltered

John Hansell

Burn Stewart has made it official: no more chill-filtering. From now on the entire line–Bunnahabhain, Tobermory, Ledaig, and Deanston–will not be chillfiltered, and they’ll be bottled at 46.3% abv.

It’s great to see more and more companies following this trend toward keeping more flavor and texture in their whiskies. Their official announcement is below.

Burn Stewart Distillers Malt Portfolio Takes a Traditional Twist

Burn Stewart Distillers, producers of Bunnahabhain, Tobermory, Ledaig and Deanston malt whiskies has made a bold move to re-launch its entire range of malts as un-chillfiltered – the way whisky would have been produced at the hands of craftsman many years ago.

The evolution of the portfolio has been introduced across its Bunnahabhain 12 year old, Tobermory 10 Year Old, Ledaig 10 Year Old and a new addition, Deanston Virgin Oak.

This move is in line with the vision of Burn Stewart Distillers’ Master Blender, Ian MacMillan. Ian comments: ‘Whisky spends all those years maturing in the casks, developing the aroma and flavour. By un-chillfiltering, nothing is taken away or added so whisky lovers can enjoy the whisky at its very best, giving them a better whisky experience. Each dram retains a depth of flavour, allowing the gentle, subtle notes of the malt to come through, providing a purer taste, nose and appearance.’

Tobermory, Ledaig, Bunnahabhain and Deanston Virgin Oak will all be bottled at 46.3% abv, a transformation which will delight whisky drinkers as un-chillfiltration leaves in nuances of flavour, providing depth and complexity to the malts.

Deanston Virgin Oak, a new addition to the portfolio, has been finished in virgin oak casks sourced from a family-owned cooperage in Bardstown, Kentucky.  Unlike most, these casks have not been used for any other alcohol so the Deanston malt picks up more of the oak flavour in maturation.  Everything else about the process is kept close to home, with only local barley and yeast used with water from the River Teith which runs alongside the distillery.

Bunnahabhain Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Islay and Tobermory and Ledaig which are both from the Tobermory Distillery on Mull have also been given a new look to coincide with the launch.  For Bunnahabhain, smoked oak glass will replace the traditional emerald green of the 12 year old bottle, with dual labelling conveying an overall sense of speciality, subtlety, confidence and luxury, reinforcing the premium quality and heritage of the brand. Both Tobermory and Ledaig now have bespoke, embossed glassware to reflect the Tobermory family, emerald green glassware for Tobermory and clear flint for Ledaig with new labelling and etching of Tobermory Bay on the capsule. Both bottles are presented within a quality gift carton.  All the packaging for Deanston Virgin Oak is recycled or recyclable to keep the whisky as close to nature as possible.

The variation in method across the range has excited whisky lovers across the globe as it offers a richer, fuller flavoured whisky.

Category: Marketing,New Releases,Scotch whisky Tags: , , , , 48 Comments

October 19th, 2010

Blog post #1,000. What next?

John Hansell

I started WDJK back in June, 2007. I realized that, as good as Malt Advocate is, there needs to be a platform between issues to provide you with more timely news and views–something that magazines and books lack.

I also want WDJK to be a way for you to get to know me a little better, and vice versa. I want to be accessible to you, which is one luxury you don’t often get with some of the other full-time whisky writers. If I’m going to dish out constrictive criticism, I should take it too. I think I have, and I’m a better person for it. Relationships are two-way streets, and I would like to believe that’s what we have here.

Your time, and my time, is valuable. When I take the time to post something up here, and when you take the time to visit here, I want it to be worthwhile and meaningful. You might not always be interested in the topics I write about, but I always try to keep the focus on whisky and its impact on us and our lives.

We do have a voice.  Because of WDJK posts and your comments, whisky companies have admitted that they’ve changed their policies on how they bottle and sell their whiskies (increasing their whisky to 46%, cask strength and not chill-filtering them, etc.) and how they market their whisky (establishing new company policies against employees “pumping up” their brands through anonymous comments, etc.). We are fighting the good fight, and we are winning.

So, what should be our direction for the next 1,000 posts? I use the word “our” because your comments are as instrumental to WDJK as my posts. What should we focus more on? What would you like to see less of?

Category: Opinions 46 Comments

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