March 9th, 2010

Review: Kilchoman Autumn 2009 release

John Hansell

 A few extra thoughts for my WDJK friends in addition to my formal review below. First, this is not available in the U.S., which is why I have the price in Pounds Sterling. (Anthony Wills, the Managing Director of Kilchoman, tells me it will be in the U.S. in 2010.)  I checked the Kilchoman website, and they still list it as being for sale with a two bottle limit. They also note that there will be a third release this month–something to look forward to.

I also wanted to note that I lined this whisky up next to the new Ardbeg Rollercoater (a marriage of 3-10 year old whiskies) and feel that Kilchoman tastes as mature as Rollercoaster. This is one of the most impressive new distilleries–anywhere! Let’s hope they can keep this up in the future.

Kilchoman, Autumn 2009 release, 46%, £47
This (rather young) Islay distillery’s second release. Like the original release, it’s aged for about three years and then finished in sherry casks–this time for 2.5 months, which is less than the first release. It’s in the same ballpark as the first release.

Once again, I am very impressed. It’s very mature for its age, with good viscosity, showing smoldering peat, coal tar, black licorice stick, burnt dark berried fruit, thick cut marmalade, shoo-fly pie (think molasses), toffee apple, cocoa powder, cinnamon and a suggestion of wet sheep. Long, peat smoke finish.

Advanced Malt Advocate  magazine rating: 90

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 36 Comments

March 8th, 2010

The verdict on reviewing the Manager’s Choice whisky samples

John Hansell

Last week I asked you here whether you wanted me to review Round 2 of Diageo’s Manager’s Choice whiskies. By roughly a 2-1 margin, you voted “no”.

I told you I would offer my decision today. (Sorry for the delay–an unexpected doctor visit pushed my schedule back.)

Here’s what I’m going to do. I’ll review the whiskies–it might only be informally–sometime soon and let you know my thoughts. Many of you are curious about the whiskies (even though you may never taste them), and so am I. I’ll also compare them to existing standard bottlings if I have them handy (something many of you asked about). BUT, I won’t review them until I get some of the more affordable, accessible whiskies reviewed first. That’s my first priority.

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 25 Comments

March 8th, 2010

John MacLellan, Distillery Manager of Bunnahabhain, moving to Kilchoman Distillery

John Hansell

This was posted on the Kilchoman Distillery website last week. I’m finally getting around to posting it up here.

Now that Kilchoman has (surprisingly good for its age) legal whisky to sell, the need to expand their operations.

I’m not sure who will replace John at Bunnahabhain.

The press release:

We are delighted to announce that John MacLellan will be joining us as General Manager.  John has worked in the whisky industry for over 20 years and for the past 12 years he has been the manager at Bunnahabhain, so brings with him lots of experience.  He starts on the 3rd of May and will be responsible for the day to day running of the business, freeing Anthony up to concentrate on developing sales around the world.

Category: Distillery news Tags: , 7 Comments

March 8th, 2010

Review: The MacPhail’s Collection (Highland Park, Glenrothes, Tamdhu)

John Hansell

As you recall, I announced the 16th Annual Malt Advocate Whisky Award winners here back in February. Some of the award winners were never formally reviewed and rated for the Malt Advocate magazine Buyer’s Guide. I’ll be posting those up this week, beginning with our “Best Buy” award winner, so that these whiskies will be searchable in our Buyer’s Guide database. They’ll be published in the next issue of Malt Advocate.

Focus on “The MacPhail’s Collection”

Three whiskies. All 8 years old, and nicely matured. And all aged in refill sherry casks, for just the right amount of sherry influence without dominating the flavor profile. These days, it’s hard to find a nice single malt scotch for around $30-35. Here are three.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Highland Park), 43%, $30
The lightest and most appetizing of the three. Look for honeyed vanilla, mango, nectarine, pineapple in syrup, floral notes, and delicate brine. A fresh, easy drinking, “anytime” dram.

83 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Glenrothes), 43%, $30
A pleasing, younger expression of this classic Speysider. Noticeably mouth-coating, with a malty foundation accentuated by toffee apple, chocolate covered nuts, and fresh grass. Very stylish.

82 The MacPhail’s Collection (distilled at Tamdhu), 43%, $30
This distillery is (sadly) mothballed at the moment, and not always easy to find. The most aggressive of the three. Notes of burnt toffee, roasted nuts, ripe barley, citrus, vanilla, honey, and toasted marshmallow.

As I mentioned in the awards write-up, a Bunnahabhain 8 year old will also be added to the MacPhail’s Collection shortly.

Category: Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 13 Comments

March 6th, 2010

Buffalo Trace: “Single Oak” Project

John Hansell

Mark Brown, President and CEO of Buffalo Trace Distillery, is such a tease.

Here is the landing page of a website that will expand into revealing a project that Mark is hopeful “will be the largest experimental project of its kind ever undertaken.”

That’s saying a lot. But, if anyone call pull it off, Buffalo Trace can. Stay tuned!

Category: Bourbon,Breaking news,Uncategorized Tags: 14 Comments

March 5th, 2010

Review: Ardbeg Rollercoaster

John Hansell

I first mentioned this new release here back on February 5th, and if you follow the thread you can read about all the details. Basically it’s a marriage of ten different casks from ten different years (1997-2006).

I tasted the whisky first on Super Bowl Sunday, and offered my preliminary thoughts here (@12). My opinion has not changed. My formal review follows.

89 Ardbeg “Rollercoaster,” 57.3%, $ 85.00
Deep gold color. Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit. More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock and cough drops emerging towards the finish. This whisky is very dynamic and exciting to drink. My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s. Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies are. And if you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, then this one’s for you.

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 39 Comments

March 4th, 2010

So, do you want me to review these? Or not?

John Hansell

Diageo has released Round 2 of the now famous (infamous?) “The Manager’s Choice” single cask whiskies. I first wrote about Round 2 in detail here back in January. Have a look. Diageo was kind enough to send me review samples last week, which you see pictured.

If you recall, when I first announced The Manager’s Choice here last year in September, it created quite a commotion. My blog posting alone received 178 comments, most of them negative.

I did eventually review these whiskies here last October.

So, my question for you is: do you want me to formally review these whiskies, or would you prefer I devote my efforts to reviewing whiskies with greater distribution?

You have been very vocal about my reviewing whiskies you can’t afford or don’t have access to. These whiskies will not be sold in the U.S. and are somewhat expensive for their age. (Although “expensive” these days is a moving target.) 

I don’t have enough time to review all the review samples I receive, so there is a definite trade-off here. Either way, I will still taste these whiskies informally and keep them on hand for my own knowledge and future reference. Besides, I am curious. But, since I feel my primary purpose here is to post up information that you want (rather than flexing my ego muscle), I’ll let you decide.

Do you want me to review these whiskies? Yes or no?

I will take votes until the end of the weekend, tally them up, and let you know on Monday morning.

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 117 Comments

March 3rd, 2010

Review: Four new GlenDronach single malts

John Hansell

Here are the four relatively new GlenDronach whiskies. The 15 year old is the one to get, followed by the single cask 19 year old (U.S. only). If you like sherried whiskies, then you will want to check these out.

 

 

GlenDronach, 1989 vintage, 19 year old, 58.7%, $135
The first single cask release of GlenDronach for the U.S. by the new owners, and a nice one at that. Silky in texture, polished, and clean on the palate, with light toffee, treacle, cherry bonbon, orange-soaked date nut cake, and chocolate-covered raisin. Never cloying, like some heavily sherried whiskies can be. Silky, soothing finish. Surprisingly soft and youthful for its age.  (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 88

 

  

 

 

 

GlenDronach, 12 year old, 46%, $59
Nicely sherried. Rich, with maple syrup, honey drenched citrus, sultana, and a good dried oak spice finish for balance. Well done for a 12 year old, and definite competition for Macallan of the same age.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 86

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

GlenDronach, 15 year old, 46%, $95
Deeper, richer, more viscous, and more intriguing than 12 year old (and not as sappy as the 18 year old). Complex and intriguing, with raisin, orange marmalade, grape skin, sugar plum, cinnamon bun, raspberry preserve, mixed nuts, and coal ash.  Nice tannic grip on finish. The best of the bunch, and very impressive!

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 93

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

GlenDronach, 18 year old, 46%, $136
There’s plenty going on here, but it’s not as vibrant as the other GlenDronachs. Lots of sherry influence, viscous, and a bit sappy, with Curacao liqueur, honey drenched fruit, raspberry tart, black cherry, and ripe malt, leading to a grape stem finish. An enjoyable whisky, but my least favorite of the bunch.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 84

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky Tags: 30 Comments

March 2nd, 2010

Question: Did you get “the look” yet?

John Hansell

How many of you have ever gotten “the look” from your spouse or significant other because of the amount of whiskies you purchased? And for those of you who have gotten the look, when was it and how many bottles did you have?

I have to go back a couple of decades, but I think it was around 1993 for me. And about 30 bottles. Little did my wife know at the time…

Category: Humor,Opinions,Whisky collections 68 Comments

March 2nd, 2010

Once again, you’re the subject of my editorial

John Hansell

For those of you who still aren’t subscribers to Malt Advocate magazine (hint!), I thought I would post my editorial from the new issue that just mailed. Why? Because the topic is about you!

Have a look:

Are you addicted to whisky?

Okay, maybe “addicted” might be too strong. But I don’t think “obsession” is.

Over the holidays, I asked my blog readers on www.whatdoesjohnknow.com what their New Year’s resolutions were. Here are a few of many; note that they share a common theme:

“My resolution is to regain my sanity and not spend so much on whisky…”

 “Measure my drams more carefully to control portion size.”

“I spent too much on whisky this year. So much so, that my wife gave me some sideways glances. Not good.”

“My resolution will be to stop buying impulsively.”

“More willpower and less buying”

Control portion size? Regain your sanity? More willpower? Your wife is giving you sideways glances? What’s going on here?  (And why do I feel like those exact words came out of my mouth somewhere along the way?)

Here’s what I think this all boils down to. I think it’s a huge compliment to whisky. Whisky (and whiskey) is the finest, most complex, most individualistic, most diverse spirit in the world. Once someone truly discovers it, it’s hard to resist its magical allure.

If anyone understands, I do. One day, many years ago, a good friend turned me on to scotch, with help from a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label. The next day I read an article in Business Week magazine about single malt scotch. I immediately went to my local retailer and bought every bottle they had.  All three of them.

For years to follow, I wanted to try every whisky I could get my hands on. My life revolved around trips to Scotland, whisky bars, whisky retailers…and reading everything about whisky I could.

Just look at me now: obsession to the max! I publish a whisky magazine, host whisky festivals, conduct whisky tastings and consult to the whisky industry. I am embarrassed to say how many bottles of whisky I have. (Let’s just say it takes up an entire room in my house. A large room.)

Addiction? No. Obsession? Definitely. Worth it? Absolutely!

Hey, did you hear about the new Ardbeg whisky coming out? I hear that the peat smoke levels are through the roof! I have to get me a bottle of that…

See, when you comment on WDJK, you never know where your quotes will show up. Thank you for the inspiration!

Category: Malt Advocate Mag,Opinions 19 Comments

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