January 11th, 2009

Review: Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey, Batch #2

John Hansell

I have some small U.S. craft distillery whiskeys which I’ll be posting reviews up on over the next few day. Here’s the first one.

Charbay Hop Flavored Whiskey, Batch #2, 55%, $325
A unique and quite intriguing whiskey. A “bottle ready” California Pilsner beer was given an extra dose of hops and then distilled in a pot still and aged in new oak for six years. Then it was aged in stainless steel for another three years. Five barrels were bottled. (When I traveled through Europe some of the breweries let me taste “Hop Schnapps” which they had a distiller produce from their own beer. It was always just for their own private consumption, not for sale. This Charbay release reminds me of that, only aged into a mature whiskey.) It’s a complex whiskey, accentuated naturally by hops, exotic teas, marijuana (seriously!) candied fruit, lavender, dark berries, raspberry (red and black), juniper, freshly ground tellicherry pepper, and light Caribbean rum. A nice “change of pace” whiskey.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 81

Category: Microdistilleries,Reviews 21 Comments

January 7th, 2009

Review: Evan Williams Single Barrel 1999 Vintage

John Hansell

One thing to keep in mind about this review:  it’s a single barrel bottling ( from Barrel #1). I highly doubt the bottle you buy will be from Barrel #1, which means that it won’t taste exactly like this one. The barrel your whiskey comes from might be from the same warehouse and even the same floor, but there will be differences, even if subtle.

Evan Williams Single Barrel (Barrel #1), 1999 Vintage, 43.3%, $26
This might the most drinkable Evan William Single Barrel vintage ever produced. It’s most noticeable personality trait is sweetness (gentle, not cloying), with notes of caramel corn, vanilla custard, candied fruit and subtle macaroon. Spearmint, cinnamon, nutmeg and charcoal provide some zest. Soft and clean on the finish, with gentle oak resin. A smooth, easy ride from beginning to end.

Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: Bourbon,New Releases,Reviews 8 Comments

January 6th, 2009

Whisky inconsistencies: your experiences?

John Hansell

Contrary to what many people might think (and what some whisky producers might suggest), sometimes the producer’s standard offerings do change. But don’t expect them to send out press releases or run ads telling everyone.

Why would a whisky’s flavor profile change? There are many reasons, but many times it comes down to having enough whisky stocks to keep the flavor profile consistent. If there are gaps in production, or if the marketing department forces the blender to bottle more whisky than they have appropriate stocks, then the flavor profile will change and the quality might suffer.

I’ll offer a few examples of recent experiences I’ve encountered. Ardbeg 17 year old kept getting older year after year until they finally discontinued it. That’s because the Ardbeg distillery was closed for most of the 1980s, making it impossible for Ardbeg to put out a 17 year old over the past decade. The owners kept the age statement on the label the same, but the whisky got older and its flavor profile changed.

Another example I recently encountered is Pappy Van Winkle 23 year old Bourbon. When it first came out several years ago, there was a lot of oak in that whiskey–too much for balance. I tried a new bottling recently and the oak was in check, the balance was impeccable, and it really was a great example of an ultra-mature bourbon. In fact, I’ll be posting a review of it up on this blog in the near future. I still have my original example of PVW 23, and it really is quite different than the newer release.

Several years ago, a master blender gave me a bottle of his new release. He pulled me aside and said to me: “Be sure to enjoy this bottle, because after the first bottling I don’t have enough quality sherry casks to duplicate it. The next bottling won’t be the same.”

So, tell us about your experiences. Have you noticed inconsistencies in a particular whisky over the years?

Category: Opinions 15 Comments

January 5th, 2009

Review: Scapa 16 yr. old

John Hansell

After dealing with a bad cold and then bronchitis in December, I am finally recovered and have my taste buds working again. That means I’m back to reviewing whiskies. Sorry about the absence. I know that some of you look forward to them.

Scapa, 16 year old, 40%, $75
A soft, easy-going whisky with a foundation of honeyed vanilla, caramel custard and mouth-coating maltiness. Floral and brine notes are sprinkled throughout, as is cocoa, white pepper and subtle edible seaweed. Soft malt and brine finish. A whisky with a gentler personality when compared to most other island malts, making it a nice introduction to the style. I would, however, like to see this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered. I’d be more than willing to sacrifice some drinkability for greater intensity and more subtle nuances. Still, it is an enjoyable whisky and enthusiasts of its predecessor—Scapa 14—should also like it, albeit at a higher retail price.
Advanced Malt Advocate magazine rating: 85

Category: New Releases,Reviews,Scotch whisky 11 Comments

January 3rd, 2009

Don’t like your whisky? Then make it better!

John Hansell

If you’ve been drinking whisky long enough, somewhere along the way you purchased a bottle of whisky you weren’t happy with. Chances are, you have a bottle right now.

If you’ve been following this blog, then you know that I started a thread a few days ago about being disappointed with a bottle of 1970 vintage Aberlour that I waited more than 15 years to open. I was saving it for a special occasion, which turned out to be this past Christmas Eve. The whisky spent more than 30 years in bourbon oak. It was a quality whisky (e.g., it wasn’t aged in bad wood), but it was just showing too much oak, with a particularly long, dry oak finish.

After sharing it around with friends and family members over the holidays, I was left with about half the bottle. Still disappointed with the whisky and what I hoped it would be, I decided to take matters into my own hands and blend in other Aberlour whiskies in the bottle to make the whisky better. I have several open bottles on hand, including the new 12 and 16 year old, along with a bottle of a’bunadh and an 18 year old.

The majority of what I added was from a limited edition Aberlour 18 year old bottling that I had about a half a bottle of. This whisky was released several years ago and was aged exclusively in sherry oak. A very good whisky in its own right, I was hoping that the sweet, fruity sherry notes would help to offset the dry spicy notes of the 1970 vintage. After blending in the 18 year old, I also decided it could use a bit of youth and vivality to cut through all that oak, so I added a small amount of Aberlour a’bunadh–another heavily sherried whisky, but younger and more vibrant.

The marriage worked perfectly. I now have a full bottle of mature Aberlour whisky with great depth and balance that is not too tired on the palate. And it is still very special, given that it’s bottle #1 of only 1. I don’t feel guilty about what I did.

I have done this many times in the past, for reasons personal and professional, and I think you should consider doing it too. There are a few prerequisites you will need to consider. First, you’ll need enough whisky on hand to make your special blend. (You might be able to do it with just a few different bottles open, as long as they are diverse in flavor.) Second, the whisky you are attempting to improve must still be a good quality whisky, just somewhat out of balance (too woody, too sherried, too old, too young, too smoky, too bland, etc.).

If what you are starting with is a bad whisky (aged in crappy wood, distilled improperly, etc.) then there’s probably nothing you can do with the whisky other than attempt to hide its imperfections. You run the risk of wasting a good whisky by blending it in with a bad whisky that’s impossible to fix. You don’t want to do that.

I’m sure that some of you have already done some whisky blending. Why don’t you share your experiences with us. For those of you who haven’t attempted this yet and have a whisky you aren’t happy with, why don’t you give it a try and let us know how it worked out.

Start small. Instead of mixing a half a bottle each of two different whiskies, start with an ounce of each. That way, if your experiment fails, you can cut your losses.

Category: Opinions,Scotch whisky 19 Comments

January 2nd, 2009

New Balvenie for Travel Retail

John Hansell

pic11478.jpgBalvenie seems to have a rum wood finish thing going on right now. A little while back they released a Balvenie 17 year old Rum Cask as part of their limited-edition 17 year old releases. Now, they are going to be selling a Balvenie GoldenCask 14 year old in Travel Retail beginning in February for about £40. The whisky will be bottled at 47.5% ABV.

The Balvenie Malt Master David Stewart had this to say in a recent Moodie Report:

The result of this unusual finishing period in rum casks has created an interesting new Balvenie expression with a fruity sweetness and subtle spice that I hope malt whisky enthusiasts will enjoy.

It will be interesting to see how this compares to the 17 yr old Rum Cask.

Category: New Releases,Scotch whisky 7 Comments

January 1st, 2009

And sometimes, a letdown…

John Hansell

Every year around the holidays, I celebrate by opening up a special bottle of whisky. I also do this in June when it’s my birthday.

I started doing this about a decade ago, when I realized that I wasn’t opening up my special whiskies because I was too busy reviewing all the new whiskies coming on the market as part of my job. It seemed silly (at the time) to open up a bottle that didn’t need to be opened up, when I was already opening up whiskies every week for review purposes.

But I realized that if I take this approach, I’ll never get around to opening up and enjoying my special whiskies that I have been waiting for a special occasion to drink. They would just sit around and collect dust and then someday I will fall over dead and I’ll never have the opportunity to enjoy them.

This, of course, is unacceptable. And it’s why I now open up a bottle over the holidays and on my birthday.

I have dozens of these kinds of “special” whiskies. I purchased most of them when I was just a whisky enthusiast and my day job was being a scientist. They were bottled in the late ’80s and early ’90s, before there was a Malt Advocate magazine or a WhiskyFest. I purchased these bottles on blind faith, hoping they would be outstanding whiskies and well worth the cost (and wait).

On Christmas eve, I opened one of these bottles. It was a 1970 vintage Aberlour. I knew it was aged exclusively in bourbon casks, because there’s a long story on the back label and also on the inside of the box. I was hoping for a great whisky. After all, I had waited more than 15 years to drink it.

The verdict? I was disappointed. It’s a nice enough of a whisky, but the 30-plus years in bourbon oak left a significant mark on the whisky’s flavor profile. There’s a lot of wood there and it’s quite dry on the finish.

I couldn’t help think to myself how much better this whisky could have been if they blended in some sherry oak casks to have some sherry sweetness balance some of those dry notes. Indeed, there have been some 100% sherry oak aged Aberlour whiskies that have been outstanding, like the limited edition 18 year old from about a decade ago (not to mention the a’bunadh).

I realize that this is part of the deal when exploring new whiskies–especially back then when it was almost impossible to taste a special whisky before you bought the bottle. You just bought it and hoped it would be good.

What about you? Have you been through a similar experience?

(Oh, and incidentally, I treated this bottle the same way I treat the other special bottles of whiskies I open up each year–I took the bottle with me to parties and shared it with my friends. With all the people I shared the whisky with, not one person complained. It is, after all, a piece of liquid history and very special in its own right, even if it wasn’t exactly what I had hoped for.)

Category: Opinions,Scotch whisky 12 Comments

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